Can Free-Soloing Be a Dick Move?


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Trad climber
Mar 11, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
DMT: I once skied THROUGH a glacier class, on Shasta. Now THAT was a DICK MOVE.

Was this before or after you ice bombed the gumbies on North Pk.?

So DMT = Dick Move, Twice?


Trad climber
Mar 11, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
well, when i was in jtree last week, on the way out of the park i stopped off at trashcan and ran part of the circuit in the presence of top-ropers.

i'm obviously going to burn in hell for eternity.

Mar 11, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
ok, time for a t-shirt design from Ihateplastic:

"Dick Mover"
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 11, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
//well, when i was in jtree last week, on the way out of the park i stopped off at trashcan and ran part of the circuit in the presence of top-ropers.

i'm obviously going to burn in hell for eternity.//

I expect to see you there then. I wish someone had posted this thread sooner to save me from the error of my ways.
Damn this looks high

Trad climber
Temecula, CA
Nov 12, 2010 - 09:50am PT
Sung to the tune of the Ken-L-Ration dog food song.

♫ My dick’s bigger than your dick,
My dick’s bigger than yours.
My dick’s bigger cuz I soloed your route
My dick’s bigger than yours.♫ ��

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Nov 12, 2010 - 10:49am PT
bbbeans, curious as to what specific route that you were on there (Bozeman area?)

If it was at any of the local areas that I am aware of, then it was definitely a Dick Move--as there is plenty of stone around to climb solo with no one else around (to deal with the aftermath...)

Matthew 25:40
Nov 12, 2010 - 11:03am PT
Goodnight ....!

Nov 12, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
I never believed in resurrection. But now that I have seen it, I have to rethink the question.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 12, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
John, I consider getting out of bed in the morning my personal resurrection.

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Nov 12, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
I had a free soloist help get my rope unstuck at Tahquitz, so no they aren't all dicks.

But I also had a buddy watch me lead a mellow 5.5 crack at Rubidoux and then he watched my gf clean it and so instead of him trying to learn to place gear better, he freesoloed it to be a bad ass. Thats a dick move.

Gym climber
Nov 12, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
Hard to say; did you think he was a dick before he soloed it? We could have just been trying to speed things up for you - and thus soloed to go fasted. Was the route steep or long, if he feel would he of landed on you - would he of created any danger to you or your friends.

If you had been monopolizing the route for a long period of time, then I think that puts him in a more favorable light.

So many factors. There have been many threads on passing parties on this site. Typically, I've read into it that if you are going to pass someone you better be strong enough to solo past them. Again - consideration must be given to saftey (the fall line of both rocks and a potential detached soloist).

That said, if he called you a wanker for roping up, he was a dick. But you never indicated that he 'farted in your general direction.'

Trad climber
Back somewhere flat, dammit
Nov 12, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
Horse-puckey, it takes more than just soloing something. Much in the way it takes more than dropping your man purse and PBR on the curb next to a city bike to be a hipster. However, doing this in THE genuine vintage T-shirt of some seminal prog-rock band usually gets more people sizing you up as a dick then admiring your style.

Social climber
granada hills
Nov 12, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
Great discussion!

I never knew so many people had a problem with soloists or being passed. I have never had a problem letting a faster climber pass. When a soloist passes I am delayed exactly 30 seconds. (That's how long it takes me to make a new friend.)

In the OP, the solo guy asked if it was OK. The OP said go, so not a DM. Not even close.

I always ask climbers if they mind if I pass. I do it in a friendly way, and they always say go. So not a DM.

I am not trying to pick up your girls when I climb by. I am just having fun climbing, just like you.



Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 13, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Anything can be a dick move if its made by a dick.
rich sims

Trad climber
Nov 13, 2010 - 02:11am PT
I thought the two guys on Royal Arches were dicks not wanting to let my little bro and I pass. Sh#t they had bivi gear and worse kept asking me if they were going the right way.
Big mistake as soon as I could say just go a little higher we passed below them. Guess i am a dick..
Dicks just another four letter word.
Hey rich Hey Dick

By and By I will be climbing at the Flatirons with my Daughter this weekend so do not solo anything by me and make my dick/ego look small.

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 13, 2010 - 02:15am PT
I think Doninini pretty much nailed it. Dick is as dick does.

aging malcontent
Nov 15, 2010 - 02:39am PT
It takes a real a-hole to free solo a route somebody is climbing or getting ready to climb. Bargain basement histrionics indeed. Its ok to say "yes, I do mind if you climb it, get lost".

Letting a faster party pass is another matter. On long routes you should speed up or step aside. Me n Todd Tremble climbed the East buttress of the middle in just over an hour because these czech maniacs got right on our ass and it became America vs Czechoslovakia. Being good patriots we finished a full pitch ahead of them, but it was understood that they were gonna blow by if they could. We let a party pass us on the nose. they were fast and we were slow, so why not. They made it to camp 5 before we got to camp 4, so it was a good decision.

An Oil Field
Nov 15, 2010 - 06:34am PT
These soloing bitchfest threads are just a waste of mental energy. "It should be private." "You shouldn't spray." WTF? When does anyone get to decide what someone's motives should be in regards to soloing or damn near anything else? If someone posted solos on the Trip Reports, I swear that it would cause another Republican thread from people getting torqued. Why? It isn't curing cancer.

Soloing is just climbing. If it is a one pitch route with a TR dangling on it for hours, then hell yeah go do it if you want to. But if someone is on it, sure, they are on it. If nobody is actually climbing it, and it is a route that you can run up in 2 minutes, why should anyone care? I think that politeness is a virtue, and if someone is getting bent about it you should back off to be nice, but hey, people are starving in Africa!

And passing a party is always a pain. More of a pain when you are two roped teams. It is a little awkward with or without a rope. You slow down an already slow party sometimes.

If you really want to get into a soloist's head, ask Werner why he has soloed the Gripper about a thousand times. My guess is that he just likes it. I seriously doubt he was trying to get laid. When you fall in love with a route and romance her 50 times, well, taking all that time to do it roped can get sort of slow.

I dunno how people can get so worked up about climbing now that I am old enough to reflect. Hey, go have fun! Make a ton of friends! Bending your brain over someone else's actions is just mental slander. I finally reached the point where I don't like bad thoughts anymore. Not good for your soul. So just go have fun. Enjoy your day. Be happy. Don't worry too much about someone else's world, it is enough just to keep up with your own. That Wes dude up there said it well.

Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Nov 15, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
If it's a short/single pitch route the soloist can wait in line and get on it when it's his/her turn, just like everybody else.

If it's a multi-pitch and the soloist comes across a roped party, that party can decide if it is safe to let the soloist pass.

I would let this pass happen %99 of the time. If however I see that the soloist may cause a risk to my party, they will have to be patient and wait until that risk can be mitigated.

It's really about respect for others and good common sense.
My $.02

Trad climber
Nov 15, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
When there are hot chicks around, my freesoloing grades go WAY up. Usually I am good for 5.4 but a pretty lady will up it to 5.6. Gets me laid constantly.
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