BUTE INLET trips & visits - what, where & when ?!

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Tami

Social climber
Canada
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
Our Very Own supertorpor BUTE INLET thread for climbers, skimountaineers, fishermen, boaters, treeplanters, and anybody else with stories and pictures.

The Mt Waddington South Side thread got hijacked by BUTE INTLET & I was hoping to split this off for it to find & grow it's own legs and let Mt Wadd south side get back to being itself.

Here is a fine 1:250 for the area : http://www.canmaps.com/topo/nts250/low/092k.htm

Friends of Bute Inlet ( in case you missed it at the other thread )
http://www.buteinlet.net

The fabulous trip I had in the area with Don Serl, David Harris ( Ghost ), Greg Foweraker ( gf ) , and his girlfriend at that time Nicky, spent a week in the Mt Superb / Sir Francis Drake area between the Orford & Southgate Rivers.

We were going to walk from the kelp beds. Trust me we were. We REALLY REALLY planned to do the 3500'+ vertical thrash to our bc YES WE REALLY meant to DO THAT but instead we flew in.

Sigh.

( yey.......... I was SO NOT looking fwd to that thrash :-D )

We had horrendous weather & flew into the only hole in the clouds that opened to show us the spot where we'd camp and, the coast range being what it is, the clouds closed back in & it peed on us for several more days.

I was down river from Don & David & spent my time sharing lies with the boys & bailing the tent all the while with my 2-cup cup.

I had it good tho' 'cos Nicky had got food poisoning from the TasteeFreeeze or some such chicken joint & spent her time in the rain outside of her & GF's tent barfing her guts out.

Yeeeeech.

When the sun came out it was glorious. We climbed a bunch of peaks in the area - David in his spectacular red underwear - and sunned ourselves on the exposed rocks as our gear dried.......and Don put more little dots and dashes on his maps.

"Just like John Clarke does........" he said.

We hiked out did the downthrash to a logging camp at Ward Point where we had ordered a Beaver from Campbell River to fetch us. The gyppo op was closed for fire season but the caretaker - quite suprised to see a group of filthy mountaineers come into camp - shared his fine stew with us and allowed us to pollute the showers there too.

The flight out was the most hairball, anal-sphincter-constricting ride I ever had in any flying machine ( even more scary then bouncing the helicopter to get it off the ground in the Quatam River ) .

I think I've told this story in another thread but just to get a BUTE INLET thread up & running.

YOUR STORIES???

PICTURES !?!?!

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2010 - 02:49am PT
uhhhh.................bump? This made it to page 3 with my one pathetic lonely post ?

gf

climber
Mar 5, 2010 - 03:10am PT
Bump!
Bute Inlet is such a beautiful area, close to towns on the east side of Vancouver Island and within quick striking distance of the lower mainland. Despite extensive and in some instances, poor logging practices, Bute inlet has a wealth of wilderness recreation opportunities, with prudent conservation measures to preserve fish habitats it could assume its rightful place as one of the crown jewels in BC. Please support efforts to ensure this area is preserved for current and future generations to enjoy.
gf
gumbyKing

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Mar 5, 2010 - 03:40am PT
bump for a beautiful BC location. Hoping to get out there this summer myself.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 5, 2010 - 11:59am PT
ok I'll bite.

around 83 or so myself and Rick Borsma dropped down from the Plummer hut heading for the south face of Tiedemann. enroute we strolled into the camp of what turned out to another Peter Peru Mega Media exshreeme shkiin extravaganza. Picture this. go to Dusty's Bar on any sunny apre ski afternoon. Round up a good cross section of the usual denizens - Swedish ski groupies, Racer dudes, Potheads, maybe a misplaced Toronto Banker. Load them into a couple of flights in Ron Banners flying volkswagen van on skiis and the stage is pretty much set!

Peter and select conspirators abandon the lot and head up to the Wad / Combatent col on skis. Thats right - middle of august, skinning the whole way. go figure. They get slaughtered by a violent storm and eventually retreat back to the lowlands with no particular exshtreeme skiing done. Meanwhile the swedish ski groupie, potheads, Banker and ski racers are scurrying around all over the Tiedemann trench trying to get vhf radio call out to cbc Vancouver so that the live coverage fly by of the exshtreeme shki epic can happen. they're having a grand ol time rolling rocks on each other, smokin weed, fiddling with the radio and stuff.

then they all fly away. Almost as wierd as K2.

Postscript: PC and crew did finally get it together and wound up producing a film of Eric Peyota (i think) launching off the NW peak, then drinking champagne and appies with Sylvan Saudan down at the Col

Ok i did my bit. Flavelle should tell the story of the wolverines raiding JH and MD's camp and Greg we're still waiting for the John Clarke tale on Bute
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 5, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
bump
Pate

Trad climber
Mar 5, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
I'm eagerly awaiting more for this thread, anyone......?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Mar 5, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
that Stinging Needle is the sh#t....
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Mar 5, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
Bump

What I'd really like to see is Miss Tami to use her artistic talents and cunning wit to lampoon the taco via one of her toons.

If we don't have climbing content to post, at least we can be funny, har har.
pc

climber
Mar 5, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
bump. More pics please.

As a kid growing up on Vancouver Island, I used to play a tennis tournament every year in Powell River. Beautiful country. Wish I'd explored more around there.

pc
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Mar 5, 2010 - 09:17pm PT
<bump> for history of the early exploration of Bute Inlet and trail-blazing to reach Mt. Waddington. Those folks were hard core to the bone. A great read:

The Unknown Mountain
by Don & Phyllis Munday

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2010 - 02:18am PT
Here's another story. Back a while now, The Tiedemann glacier was the setting for the appallingly lousy movie K2. This was a great cash cow for many and the launch pad of a few careers, such as Chief. For myself it was also a bit surreal seeing what I had previously thought of as way out there transformed into a little insta city with all the trimmings. Lots of funny stuff went on, like Burnttoast scoring the leading lady, Perry performing endless al demiola scales, Mike Wies nearly falling from the summit of K2. All that was trivial compared to the party,

It was of course a drug and alcohol free camp. Somehow this fact escaped a few, notably Mike cokehead Bien (Taylor) who could often be found earnestly clutching the messhall furniture while doing his best jack nicolson in the Shining immitations. Anyway about half way into our stay and in the midst of a storm, something snapped with a spontaneous party erupting in the mess tent. all the previously hidden bottles came out and the music cranked right up. Blanchard was slam dancing with himself and the Baltis starting sampling the bar offerings. The "glacial pool" set became the hot tub full of floozies. Deano wound up passed out in a snowbank and surely would have died if not for Corby discovering and dragging him to safety. All the upper crust British producers, Directors and so on were no where to be seen (hiding) thank god. It all eclipsed in makeup and wardrobe with the balti porters trying on everything. Best yet ( something i'll never forget) is Lawrence Perry wearing chest waders over nothing else. The flaming gay wardrobe guy, undoubtably in love with lawrence from the very first, took one look and instantly dove both his hands down larry's pants, grabbed his jewels and started biting his nipples! Now i don't think anything is really too much for Lawrence but by the look of his eyes, this might have been close!!!

The storm cleared off next day and a few of us had to go helibomb a location on the steep flanks of Mt Sierra. after that i was supposed to do some doubling for Taylor. at the last minute and on location, I realized i'd forgotten one of my ice axes. Too late now! Seriously hungover, i spent the rest of the day skittering around on boilerplate ice with one dull tool, easily looking stressed for the camera. I think this is where i picked up a particular nickname i see no reason to mention here!

This was all in November, one of our finest months for experiencing the coast range. Incidentally, The range really is a good double for the Baltoro glacier, including the big granite towers and ridges. I recommend a visit for most anyone - but not in November!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 6, 2010 - 04:54am PT
Not much I can add but a fine bump.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Mar 6, 2010 - 07:52am PT
K2 was kind of a hoot, eh? But Brutus and I studied the film before we climbed Waddington in 2001; there are some good views of the area; as I recall in some of the K2 scenes you can recognize Rainy Knob etc. and kinda scope the Bravo Glacier route.

We flew in with Whitesaddle Air in Tatla Lake - Mike King and family - great folks; stayed at their place while waiting for the weather to clear -- as I recall they said the K2 filming paid for building the radio setup which allows climbers to communicate with Whitesaddle & get weather forecast or emergency contact. Which for our team of 2 was nice to have in the back pocket just in case.

Oh, and after reading The Unknown Mountain we did feel like wussies flying into the Tiedemann instead of doing it the hard way from the coast ... but wouldn't have missed it for the world.

Incredible area.

And as for the glacier hot tub . . .if you ask REAL nice I might show you the photo of Brutus buck-naked taking a sun-shower on the Tiedemann. Move over, Brad Pitt, you ain't got nothin' to show compared to a real climber dude.

BTW
a few of us had to go helibomb a location on the steep flanks of Mt Sierra
thanks for the great inside story -- do you mean Serra Peaks or is there a Mt. Sierra in the Waddington Range?
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 6, 2010 - 10:55am PT
Bump cause I don't know where Waddington is. Guess I'll need to go look at some maps. Any pics? Any scanned maps?
Zander
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 6, 2010 - 11:11am PT
Zander,

Check out the Mt. Waddington South Face thread and Squamish Climbers the 80's Photos thread here at ST

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
ok in the interest of bumping aand actually this is totally fun here's some more:

My Mom and Dad were part of an adventurous bunch of mountaineers out of Vancouver, all members of the ACC. Tami’s and Randy Atkinson’s Ma and Pa as well.
My parents cut their wedding cake with an ice axe – that’s how core they were. They were hardly inclined to go around saying things like “core” however.

The Mundays were pre war and these guys carried the torch after the war. One trip took them up the Southgate river to Mt Gilbert – unclimbed of course. Planning took at least a year including scoping from adjacent ranges and producing their own high quality maps from arial photos and whatever bearings they had. I think they had vibram soles and Viking nylon ropes by then, but tcu’s and crash pads had yet to be invented. It was important to be strong as a logger for all the load hauling, and tall for shoulder stands.

This particular trip took them about 2 weeks and as usual involved many days of relaying loads of spuds, cans and 15 lb sleeping bags strapped to Trapper Nelson packs through coastal valley bush and across creeks. Icewall creek alone took a couple of days of sacrificing more than a few trees until one finally stuck on the far bank and they could draw straws as to who would be first to get a line across for the rest. By day 6 they were 250 feet above sea level. Only ten grand to go!

After a while they get within striking distance of the summit and go for it. By 5 pm they crawl up onto the summit, only to see a nasty row of gendarmes leading to a slightly higher hump! And that’s it. Due to logistics of supply and schedule there’s no time for a second go so its snap some pics, a few dry, corny quips like “who put those there?” and its time to reverse the whole process, including another day of bridge building.

Back home there was no secretive coveting going on. All their efforts and planning was carefully documented and disseminated to the next bunch, freeing them up to look for the next happy summit.

A while back I had the awestruck pleasure of both looking across those same gendarmes to their high point and flying over the mighty Southgate valley. There’s little doubt about who the wussies are.

Postscript: Elfrida Pigou, one of the Southgate party, was lost along with 3 other ACC ‘ers from Vancouver under a wall of ice on the Bravo Glacier a few years later.
That must have been quite a blow to the small but tight community of climbers that existed back then.


gf

climber
Mar 6, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
Great story Bruce -hey do you know when they started to log the southgate -by the time I started flying up bute inlet in the late 80's it looked like they pretty much finished up there in the early 60's?
Greg
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
Bruce it's quite probable your mum was at my parent's wedding ( tho' I'd have to ask ) and that was sixty years ago this year on St Paddy's day.
Yeah, my folks are about to celebrate their "diamond" wedding anniversary.

Off topic? No, not really, because, as Bruce above said, the generation of our parents were the kids of the Mundays ( my mum was a girl scout leader in the late 50's - inspired by Phyl Munday. Mum also attended Alpine Club camp in the Freshfields in '49 - the last year Don Munday attended ACC camp. He passed away the following year much too young but he was gassed in WW 1 )

STill off topic for Bute Inlet ?

Not!

These are the unknown stories of the Coast Range of British Columbia and form part of a massive oral tradition of storytelling that was started with the first nations and now is continued by those of us who have climbed there. But for a few of these stories none are written but instead handed down from generation to generation and then they pop up here on an internet forum.

The anthropology of the Coast Range is a rich and diverse study & always was - again starting with the first nations and now extending into the mountaineering community. Sadly the lack of emphasis on celebrating this fabulous wealth of culture means greedy bastards can sway corrupt governments in order to line their pockets with more cash.

While that sounds alarmist, it's the world over isn't it ?

Lisa Baile is hard at work on a biography of John Clarke & I hope that book hits the ground running as a million bestseller & shows the Coast Range from the perspective of one of it's greatest adventurers and, towards the end of his life, it's advocates.

Another story to finish this post tho' not my own story :-D

My brother was headed with a group into the Tahumming Creek area to do the 'traverse' of the watershed. The Tahumming traverse was John Clarke's favorite; the magnificent horseshoe that takes about a week to hike heads through all the coast range's archetypes. If you do the hike in counter-clockwise direction you end at a gorgeous lake high on a shoulder - before doing the Coast Range Thrash back down towards the sea.

In scoring beta for the trip my brother asked the aforementioned Lisa for some information. She gave him the goods and then finished with " Oh, I forgot my swiss army knife at the campsite near the lake at the end there. Can you pick it up for me ? "

WHich is hilarious. Imagine finding a swiss army knife by a lake in the coast range.

He found it.

Packed it out & gave it back to her.

em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Mar 6, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
You can read more about Elfrida Pigou (lost with her team on Mt. Waddington), and other coast explorers, in the Alpine Club of Canada's DVD "Ever Upward" - 100 years of Canadian Alpine Journals 1907-2007"

100 ACC Journals are included in their entirety, in PDF format. I had the privilege of helping with production of the PDF files, and you can search by keyword across the collection. There are so many fascinating stories in those Journals, and a lot of very burly Canadian women climbers (for instance Dr. Cora Best.)

em,
wishing I was in Canada right now.

PS the DVD went out to members when it was first produced in 2008. I think it may still be available through ACC club office. www.alpineclubofcanada.ca
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 6, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
EK: "do you mean Serra Peaks or is there a Mt. Sierra in the Waddington Range?"

There are Serra peaks, five of them, more or less on the east side of the Tiedemann Glacier. I'm not sure what Serra stands for, but guess it's simply an abbreviation for 'serration' - which the peaks certainly are. Tricouni will know, if he's around. There is also a Sierra Peak, which is on the opposite side of the glacier, near Mt. Munday. It was first climbed by a Sierra Club group including Al Steck, in 1950.

The Canadian Alpine Journal on CD is still available, for $40.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 6, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
The next one up Mt Raliegh, could you please look around the summit cairn for an old Fire rock shoe? I'd give anything to see the look on Paul Berntsens face when I hand it to him!

I actually already looked once from a helicopter but no luck, and they wouldn't let me out to do a closer search.

greg - from the CAJ 1953: Southgate was a injun trade route connected with the Bishop river. A settlement of whites "flourished" in the 1890's with Timber liscences and logging happening in the lower valley, including use of a railway for hauling logs. In 1930 a guy named Farrow surveyed for a possible Railway line running up the Southgate to Chilko lake, for - get this - development of a Hydro Power project! cited is The Geographical Journal, Sept/Oct, 1945 " Search for Power in the BC Coast Range". There was 6 miles of logging road in 1952.

now how about that John Clarke tale?
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Mar 7, 2010 - 11:59am PT
Nice thread, all. Have to see K-2 now.
Rick
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 7, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
Greg, the first time I was up there was in the summer of 1970 and they were still logging at least locally. By late summer 1971, when I spent an entire summer in the Raleigh area, climbing and mapping, the camp near the junction of the Bishop and Southgate Rivers was deserted. I remember Arnold Shives and I thrashed down Raleigh Creek to the camp late that summer it was deserted. But the road down to Bute Inlet was in great shape.

By 1976 the camp was gone but the main bridges across Icewall Creek and the Southgate were still in place. Road getting bushy, and the airstrip near Raleigh Creek mouth no longer fit to land fixed-wing on. I flew over the area not long ago. Hard to tell there ever was a camp and airstrip there.

Glenn
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 7, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
Here's a juicy tidbit I just recieved via email from.....?

In answering the questions below I'd say No to first - just one of a few wolverine stories.
And yeah such neurotic ramblings could only come from a fish.

The message is:
Is this the story about wolverines? I thought Dave Fulton wrote it, but it comes from a compilation of hut journal entries and I don't think the author was identified.


July 29/86 (from a logbook in a hut in the Waddington range of BC)

It's hard to say whether it was the garlic pancakes or our
philosophical differences with the snafflehounds, but for some reason
we were horribly disorganized. We did, however, notice a helicopter
land just below the summit towers.
Scott has a 100 metre rope of which he is very proud as there is
no knot when rappelling. So, after nine knotless rappels we were back
on good old snow firma. Also on the snow were two men, both
Vancouver stock brokers. Evidently they were the stock brokers
dropped by the helicopter we had seen earlier. We introduced ourselves,
got closing quotes from that dayís market, and prepared to leave.
They detained our departure by asking the small favour that we
save their lives. "Without you," they added, "the chances of our
survival are zero to none."
We thought of asking what kind of odds we might get on that
estimate, but instead eyed them quizzically for what seemed like days,
though it was only for 12 or 14 seconds.
Remembering, too, what our mothers had said about strangers,
especially strange stock brokers (and both our mothers had quite a few
experiences with those), we said: "Yes we will help you, only first you
must tell us what the f*** you are doing here and what is the unladen
airspeed of the African swallow."
The answer to the second question they knew immediately (even
though we didn't) and the answer to the first question was quite
involved. It turns out they were up on the mountain on a dare. Actually,
if you really want to know the whole story, the two of them had been at
a party and after copious fluid intake and much drinking, they had ended
up making a substantial bet (this is all true) that they, two absolute
non-mountaineers, could climb the Big Wadatorium within a month from the
day of the bet. They took a few rock climbing lessons and then planned
to be dropped high enough by helicopter that only the summit tower
would have to be climbed. Great plan, except to keep the weight down
in the machine, two trips were required, one for supplies and one for
them. Unfortunately the time lapse between these two trips was two
weeks and involved two different companies. Miscommunication was
no doubt responsible for their supplies arriving at the hut, while they
ended up stark naked, comparatively speaking, at over 12,000 feet on
the side of a sheer mountain.
We laughed non-stop at their foolishness until, in the excitement
of the hilarity, someone 'let one go' and then, giggling at our childish
obsession with this basic human function, we took off fast. Besides, it
was snowing cats and dogs and the occasional snafflehound, and we
were very afraid.
But luckily I had some Skoal and so could leave a trail of brown
spitulants should we have gotten lost and had to find our way back up
the mountain. Scott pointed out that this was very stupid.
Anyway, if you still care, it was a major epic getting the two city
slickers all the way down to Rainy Knob. And also, because of their
lack of equipment, we became fearful lest they lose their feet to
frostbite. But bizarre things do sometimes occur; in this case it being
their careful study of a survival book which strongly recommended
carrying another pair of dry socks by wearing them condom-fashion on
one's dink! We mutually raised our eyebrows as they changed and then
mutually wondered if this was perhaps an older survival book they read,
written before many women were in the mountains... or perhaps it was
written when chicks also had dinks! Thinking about this left us
confused and somewhat worried; as it is this kinky sort of baloney that
we so often hope to escape by coming to the mountains.
Finally we got the pair down to Rainy Knob. We piled into
Scottís bivy tent only minutes after I tested the sharpness of my ice
axe by poking a hole in that very same tent. Scott, by the way, offered to
remove my liver with his pocket knife.
Next morning we herded the brokers up the hill to the hut, just
like two cowboys riding the exchange. Once up there we immediately
dove into their food barrels and decided to have a party. Except inside
a barrel is no place for a party, so we came back out, went inside the hut
and threw a shindig that the snafflehounds will never forget. Imagine
feeding caviar to snafflehounds!
Anyway, we patched up our differences with the beasts,
promising never to call them Falaffelhounds again. The wolverine
dropped by late, after finishing off another food cache on the Radiant.
The stockbrokers got sleepy and rather boring. The moon came out and
the Coast Range was as beautiful an idea as anyone has ever had.
gf

climber
Mar 7, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
Glenn,
Thanks for the info and more to the point, thanks for your time back in 1986 when you spent part of an afternoon at your offices in the old sun tower walking Don and I through air photos of the W face of bute.

gf
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
Bruce that's not the 'wolverine' story - as far as I know - but the 'stockbroker' story I alluded to I think in the Wadd thread.


Oy but wee're getting some kind of cross-pollination here, eh ?

The 'wolverine' story was when Mike D & John H were high on an attempt of Serra V ( ?stand corrected if wrong ) and they saw some climbers come into their camp....blahblahblah.........when they got down they realized camp had been ravaged by wolverines & , as John Clarke used to say, "....if wolverines get into your food stash they eat the cardboard and duct tape holdin' it together"

Okay maybe he said that about black bears.......

Anyway, John & Mike returned to camp to find NOTHING to eat & their stuff trashed. So they hiked to the hut ( and for those of you reading this thread who are unfamiliar with the area, a "hike" to the hut is a full on mountaineering experience + 4k or so altitude gain ) where they found A HUGE STASH o' stuff .........I think this was the year Croft/Flowermaker/Serl did the traverse ( 1985 ) and they DID NOT GET INTO THE FOOD - they waited for ( I don't recall how long )eating from those hideous bags of 'mystery remains' that fools tend to leave at huts . ( Good for starving climbers and rodents alike ) ....they waited for the fellows to get back to the camp & then they begged for food based on the story.

That.........I believe .... is the "wolverine story".
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 7, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
I'm going to highjack this thread for a moment

I'll just throw this out there. as good a place as any for now.

I Think a move should be made to nominate Alexandra Morten for a Governors General Award. There's no doubt she deserves one, of course Harper and co would try their best to block it. I know nothing about the proccess. Anyone? comments please.

In case anyones wondering she has for some time now been almost singlehandedly standing up for our wild salmon stocks against the Big Salmon Farm industry primarily by methods of science and law. The case against the industry is clearly damning as has been demonstrated here as well as Chile, Scottland, Ireland, and Norway. Her history is nothing short of jaw dropping. We should all become informed on this issue. Remember the east coast cod?

I know there's better organizers out there (WCWC, Suzuki...) but I'm just fishing for ideas.

check out her Blog http://alexandramorton.typepad.com/

Show of hands please
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 7, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
tami - thats the one but Scott tells it well as it was he and clients up on Mt Tellot looking down at Mike and Johns camp wondering why they were lounging around on such a nice day. Occasionaly one of the "individuals" would get up and go get a drink at a melt water stream - then return for more gluttony. Mike and John were epicing up on Serra 5 unaware that they're beer was being drunk, food eaten and everything remaining pissed on! And then as you said....

Those wolverines knew a good thing and were said to come running at the sound of helicopters.
I wonder whatever happened to those jolly pranksters? are they still there?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
Yes yes !!! That's it. EPIC !!!!!
And they didn't even get to climb SerraV before/after that chaos.

The wolverines peed on everything ?



( tee hee hee )


The horror, the horror.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Mar 8, 2010 - 02:29am PT
Thanks for the info and more to the point, thanks for your time back in 1986 when you spent part of an afternoon at your offices in the old sun tower walking Don and I through air photos of the W face of bute.

Good memory! I'd forgotten that. But I do remember long afternoons with John Clarke looking at air photos and maps, some at the GSC and some at my place, where we had 1:50,000 maps covering the entire living room floor and climbing up the walls. Now, with GoogleEarth and on-line maps, most people don't bother with that, but air photos and paper maps are still a good way to plan.

Glenn
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Mar 8, 2010 - 03:54am PT
Late at night, Roger performs a self-bump...
Credit: mcreel
MH2

climber
Mar 8, 2010 - 04:00am PT
Night shift sez get back on topic, Roger!

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 8, 2010 - 09:14am PT
Thats it? No opinions out there?

Is it really true that when it comes to politics the good canadian credo of "Keep your head down and your nose clean" rules the day....?

Chief - I know you guys have internet in there.

And how about our fine American freinds? Surely some of you must know Yvon Chouinard, maybe even slay a few fish with him. What would Yvon say? Anybody?

Are we really going to be content with reminising on the good old days while our premier icon and canary in the gold mine continues its death spiral?

If I don't get a rise here I'm gonna go sulk.
gf

climber
Mar 8, 2010 - 10:24am PT
Allow me to second Mr Kay in the nomination!
Bruce -no good thread goes unlurked!
Hey in regard to the wolverine epic -i recall showing back up at the plumber hut with don and peter to be greeted by post wolverine ravaged mike and john. Per tamis' comments they had not touched our food-but they knew where every mustard tube and bagel was in every box! The ensuing party was quite smashing as i recall.
gf
Timmc

climber
BC
Mar 8, 2010 - 11:04am PT

I would also join Bruce and Greg in nominating Alexandra Morton for a Governors General award.
Alexandra is an amazing scientist and her research on the devestating affects of industrial fish farming on wild salmon is solid.
Some of her work is on wild salmon leaving Bute and swimming by toxic fish farms and picking up sea lice and worse. I had the pleasure of having dinner at her home in Simoom Sound on Gilford Island 20 years ago and she was a firecracker then.

Thanks for the Bute stories folks. Brings back crazy memories treeplanting up Scar, klattestine, Orford etc. back in the late 80's. Days when loggers were loggers and planters were... the enemy!
Seems silly now.

TM
Chief

climber
Mar 8, 2010 - 11:56am PT
Way to go starting this thread Tami!
Things were getting a bit muddled between my green energy rant and the Wadd S Face thread.
Just got back last night from a great but depressing trip to Bute with bmacd.
Flew in from CR on Discovery West's Cessna 172. Had to ditch beazely cause BM was packing so much video gear and night surveillance stuff (That's a another story in itself!) Spectacular flight into Homathko Camp where we were welcomed by Chuck and Sharon, two of the nicest people in the world. Chuck loaned us a pickup and we drove up the east side as far as we could and walked the final couple of ks to the Heakamie bridge. Worked our way back checking out a couple fishing spots on the way. Nada.
Had dinner with the fallers (starting a new heli logging cutblock above Southgate estuary) and watched Luongo imitate a sieve. AAAARRRGGGHHH.

Saturday dawned bluebird and we managed to hire the 500D for a spectacular spin some twenty ks up the Homathko to the mouth of Scar Creek. Rigged up the fly rod and flung a purple egg sucking leach pattern into the junction of the Scar and Homathko. BANG! Fish on! Three gorgeous, silvery specimens of salmo clarkii ranging from two to three and a half pounds in quick succession. Pop the hook, pet 'em on the head and let 'em go. NICE FISH! I thought to myself,"this is too easy". No more fish for the rest of the day.

We checked out the run down and abandoned old Scar Creek logging camp. I hadn't been there since I last worked there with Jan in '84. She's gone now as many of the people I worked with in that camp are. Some tough emotions and more than a few tears as I checked out our old run down trailer in the married quarters.

Got picked up by the bird as the sun was setting and flew back to the Homathko camp. Bruce got to ride up front with the door off. He liked that a lot.

Sunday am, raining, clag to the deck, no flying home in this weather.
We hung around the camp till the weather broke a bit and Andre could get in with the Cessna. Bruce wasn't too keen but I assured him that Andre had to fly this hop regularly and wasn't going to take stupid chances.

I had told him the story of flying out of Scar in late afternoon one December way back in JR's Beaver on wheels. Jan and I were in the back with three other passengers and the plane was loaded to the max. We had to follow the snags along the Homathko to Bute where things lifted a bit so we went for it hugging the west side of Bute at just over stall speed a couple hundred feet off the whitecaps. As we reached the end of Bute the sky fell in and we found ourselves flying with zero visibility in a plane with no instrument flying capacity. To make a long story short, the pilot called mayday and CFB Comox vectored us in on their radar. For the longest forty five minute of my life, Jan and I thought we were goners and clutched each others hands. We couldn't see a thing till there was asphalt under the tires at Comox. By the time we stopped rolling and powered the plane down, it was dark. We all went to the Arlington and got puking drunk.

Our flight out with Andre was a bit lumpy but we got back to CR safe and sound. Back to Nanaimo and home to Squamish.

Hoping to go back in June.
Will try to contribute some more stories.
Hats off to Bruce for coming along for the trip.

Perry

bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 8, 2010 - 11:58am PT
Tim, I was at Scar Creek day before yesterday. You did a fine job planting there Timmc. The entire Homathko is returning to it's natural state. The forests are recovering nicely.

Due to weight constraints on our flights I took only My Canon XH-A1 and no DSLR's. I shot 2 hours of video. About half of that from the helicopter and fixed wing.

Now I have rather large task of making a meaningful video about just how damaging the Plutonic power project will be. The 8 year construction period itself, will industrialize the watershed to the point where no wildlife will be able to survive. Cement plants, gravel pitts, dozens of bridges, 3 lane 50 year roads up the Homathko, Southgate and Orford as well as the giant transmission lines.

The noise the turbines will generate for the next hundred years near the bountiful areas like the Scar / Homathko confluence will drive away any Grizzlies which survived the human conflicts during the decade of construction building the 17 powerstations ....

When people see the project scope on video they will realize how stupid this scheme is.

I met Rob Wood and now have a copy of his historical Coast range mountaineering book. The Homathko Camp is a special place, which has been running off of it's own 70 kv run of the river power plant for nearly 15 years.

Perry thanks for the great trip !

I will try and post the few stills I do have soon.

Bruce
Timmc

climber
BC
Mar 8, 2010 - 12:43pm PT

Nice to hear about the regen up Scar Bruce. Some of the most grim planting on granite slabs ever!

Great that you and Perry (and others) are taking the time and spending the money to expose this large and potentially destructive damming project. It's no mom and pop run of river hydro wheel deal.

Lemme know if you guys need any old slides of the area-I have tons from the old FM2

TM

bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 8, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
Fly casting the Homathko at Scar Creek.  Our grizzly defense in the fo...
Fly casting the Homathko at Scar Creek. Our grizzly defense in the foreground
Credit: bmacd
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 8, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
Stephen Hume's column in Saturday's Vancouver Sun reported "Forecast not looking good for B.C.'s salmon stock this year". In 2009, only about 10% of the forecast sockeye salmon returns to the Fraser River occurred, and the fishery was closed. (The Fraser watershed is about 1/4 of B.C.'s area.) A judicial enquiry as to the causes is underway, but probably won't reveal anything more than the death of a thousand cuts. The federal department of fisheries and oceans has now forecast that the outlook for 2010 is worse than last year.

Important runs where below-average returns are already being forecast include: early Stuart, early summer runs to the Pitt River, late Stuart, Nechako, Quesnel, Birkenhead, Weaver, Somass, Nimpkish, the mainland mid-coast north of Vancouver Island, Babine Lake, Skeena, Nass, Alsek, Stikine and Taku.

http://www.vancouversun.com/Forecast+looking+good+salmon+stocks+this+year/2649458/story.html
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 8, 2010 - 06:15pm PT

Mt. Bute
Mt. Bute
Credit: bmacd
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 10, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
I am still sorting out tape and materials but did manage to push 3 minutes worth up to Utube from the trip Chief and I went on last weekend. My camera skills were very rusty ...

Bute Inlet - Flight To Homathko River Valley
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEE7YdluD8o

What I am shooting is all geared towards my subscriber base on Utube so climbers may find it to be lame. Never the less, the more people who become aware of Bute and it's scheduled destruction, the better. I'll happily play my part however infinitesimal it may be.



The best Bute Inlet videos are by Jeremy Williams

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kd_tWrxY_rA&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQnaqv7l0CA

A 2 part must see series.
Chief

climber
Mar 10, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
Nice work Bruce, waiting for the next installment.

Jeremy William's videos are must sees, hat's off to him for standing up!
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 10, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
8 CPU's are currently rendering the 2nd instalment ....

Fly Fishing, helicopter flyovers and some of the best scenery in the world ....

You are going to love it Chief !!! - Man did we ever luck out with the weather !!!
Beazley

Trad climber
BC
Mar 11, 2010 - 11:49am PT
Nice video Bruce. Looking forward to seeing the rest. You guys were lucky with the weather. Just think you might still be stuck up there.
In today's Globe and Mail http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/national/british-columbia/developers-delay-4-billion-bute-hydro-project/article1496990/
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 11, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
The headline in the business section of today's Vancouver paper: "Plutonic pulls Bute project from Clean Call"

When you read the fine print, it's not quite so clear. They say they're withdrawing the Bute project from consideration because of lack of transmission capacity, but are still pursuing two projects in the Toba River watershed. They in any case seem to be just putting the Bute project on hold; Plutonic Power's spokesperson says "Plutonic and GE Energy will now spend 12 to 18 months further developing the Bute project, including advancing permitting studies and acquiring environmental approvals."

As to what's really going on, that's another question. Plutonic must have known from the start about any transmission issues.

http://www.vancouversun.com/business/Plutonic+pulls+Bute+project+from+Clean+Call/2670077/story.html
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 12, 2010 - 12:09am PT
Anders they have to let the shareholders down gently. It's all PR, or to be precise Investor Relations ...

Here is the second installment of the trip from last weekend. I like how it turned out

Bute Inlet BC - Homathko to Scar Creek
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiEWSj4afuE


this is a copy of a message I just sent to Chuck and Sharon at Homathko Camp.

Sharon,

I found my cell phone so no worries here. I think Perry and I are the only ones to have ever been to Scar creek with a high definition camcorder of that quality.

I have realized that all I have to do is post more HD video of the Homathko, and in fact I will paint the forestry and the regeneration going on there in a very positive light.

If you search the internet for video of Bute Inlet and the Homathko there are only ten or so videos of the area. 4 are HD and 2 of those high definition vids are mine. Both rank higher in a youtube search after 2 days than anyone else's stuff, if you search "Bute Inlet BC" from within Utube. All thanks to my subscriber base and viewership.

I dont need to risk anything or anyones livelihood by painting a negative picture. I don't even have to mention Plutonic. The videos speak for the vastness and beauty of your area on its own. My mission, which is clear to me now, is to merely propagate imagery of the area. That is enough I think.

Thanks again for the wonderful accommodations and I hope to see you both again this summer.

Regards,
Bruce

Even though my ratings and audience on youtube are far higher than FOBI, I really doubt they would want to be associated with the premise of my utube channel (bigfoot). But I can leverage that viewership to drive traffic and awareness to FOBI's cause.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Mar 17, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
Greg foodeater - still waiting for that john clarke tale. jeez man what are you waiting for - christmas?

Rapin and pillagin in Tobatraz
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
Here are some still images captured from the video I shot at Bute / Homathko. I am so regretting not taking a still camera on that trip. Capturing stills from video is very time consuming and the quality of the result sucks. Anyway here are the final images tweaked in Aperture 3, the colors are kinda off .... whatever.

Hard to beleive Perry and I spent only 2 nights there.

Google overview - click to enlarge
Mt. Waddington to Bute Inlet - the Homathko drainage.
Mt. Waddington to Bute Inlet - the Homathko drainage.
Credit: bmacd

Looking south from Homathko camp
Looking south from Homathko camp
Credit: bmacd
Again looking south from Homathko camp towards Bute Inlet - March 2010
Again looking south from Homathko camp towards Bute Inlet - March 2010
Credit: bmacd
Looking to the north from the dock at Homathko camp, up the Homathko r...
Looking to the north from the dock at Homathko camp, up the Homathko river
Credit: bmacd
View of the Homathko valley from near the Heakamie river bridge
View of the Homathko valley from near the Heakamie river bridge
Credit: bmacd
Frozen sandbar at Scar creek, on the Homathko
Frozen sandbar at Scar creek, on the Homathko
Credit: bmacd
Looking down Scar creek to the Homathko
Looking down Scar creek to the Homathko
Credit: bmacd
North of Homatko camp on the river
North of Homatko camp on the river
Credit: bmacd
Pinnacle Peak, above Scar Creek
Pinnacle Peak, above Scar Creek
Credit: bmacd
Perry casting for memories at Scar Creek.  He caught his quota
Perry casting for memories at Scar Creek. He caught his quota
Credit: bmacd
Perry casting the Homathko north of Scar creek
Perry casting the Homathko north of Scar creek
Credit: bmacd
Arriving at Homathko airstrip
Arriving at Homathko airstrip
Credit: bmacd
No sign of old growth Homathko forest in the valley anymore.  Can this...
No sign of old growth Homathko forest in the valley anymore. Can this place survive another hit of industrialization ?
Credit: bmacd
Drainage just north of the Jewaka river
Drainage just north of the Jewaka river
Credit: bmacd
Looking north to Scar creek area from above the Jewaka
Looking north to Scar creek area from above the Jewaka
Credit: bmacd
Heakamie river valley, south of Jewaka and a feeder to the Homathko
Heakamie river valley, south of Jewaka and a feeder to the Homathko
Credit: bmacd
Low water on the Homathko as viewed on our flight back from Scar Creek
Low water on the Homathko as viewed on our flight back from Scar Creek
Credit: bmacd
Homathko
Homathko
Credit: bmacd
Looking south down the Homathko river valley towards Bute Inlet
Looking south down the Homathko river valley towards Bute Inlet
Credit: bmacd
More Homathko salmon spawning grounds
More Homathko salmon spawning grounds
Credit: bmacd
Perry working the eddy on the Homathko at Scar Creek
Perry working the eddy on the Homathko at Scar Creek
Credit: bmacd
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 8, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
BC's legendary climber Rob Wood puts on a slideshow of climbing Waddington with Doug Scott and other adventures in Bute Inlet this friday night at the Brackendale Art Gallery - 7 pm. in Squamish. Rob made the 18th ascent of El Capitans Nose route

See you there
Chief

climber
Apr 8, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
Nice work Bruce.
See you Friday, will bring your gear.

PB
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
Jun 16, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
Exploring the Waddington Range - Thirty years of adventures - Don Serl

Date: Tuesday, 22 June 2010
Time: 18:30 - 21:30
Location: VanDiusen Gardens- Floral Hall
Street: Oak Street & 37th Avenue
Town/City: Vancouver, BC

Don Serl, climber, mountaineer, author, will provide a brief review of 30 years of adventures in the Waddington Range. With dozens of trips and over two dozen first ascents, he has been a household word in the BC Coast Mountains for more than 25 years. Don has extensive climbing experience not only in BC and Canada but also the Himalayas and around the world. Don is the author of: "The Waddington Guide: Alpine Climbs in one of the World's Great Ranges" as well as "West Coast Ice: The Climber's Guide." Also, join us for our June Potluck. Bring a dish and share with friends.

Vancouver Section, Alpine Club of Canada
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