Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 2, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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Did this back in 1980 (I think) and thought it was stellar, hard (5.12b) but not outrageous. Always thought it would catch on as a big time plumb but it seemingly never has. Tis a puzzlement why not.
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t*r
Trad climber
☆•*¨*•.¸¸❤❤¸.•*¨*•☆
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probably because a lot of the guys who hang out in the valley and tuolumne nowadays spend more time sitting around smoking pot and acting like a-holes than actually climbing.
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BES1'st
climber
City of Orange, CA.
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Freed in Sportivas? Those were also great shoes.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Has anybody replaced the sketchy pro? The shot of Kauk putting a wire stopper over a 1/4" stud at the crux on ABC's Wide World of Sports was a bit disconcerting. Then there is the fact that Moffet couldn't do it seconding, though in his defense he had some elbow problems.
Bruce
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BES1'st
climber
City of Orange, CA.
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Past that it seems most all were still doing the aid tyrolian thing.
Not many in the world climbed 5.12 then.
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Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California
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I did it on 9/11 with Doug Englekirk, who freed all pitches.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Largo, how did you get off, once you'd freed it?
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hydra
Trad climber
Socal
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Who wants to do a slab V2 in the sky! LAME!
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WBraun
climber
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That T*R is pure projection on your part and so far off from the actual truth. Not even remotely close.
The the last two pitches are the sh'it. They are un-natural lines that were originally bolted and beat to hell with pins in an outrageous beautiful location.
The rating 5.12b don't mean sh'it either. The free climbing has to be naturally pleasing to the spirit and it isn't. No one is drawn to that beat out crap looking second to last pitch before the bolt ladder.
The line at the end (last 2 pitches) just doesn't inspire compared to what else is around in the Valley.
There's a real gemstone free line to be done on that wall that no one really has seen or studied except for (no names given), but it's there and up for grabs.
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medusa
Trad climber
culver city
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I know the line! So does Levy, Had a look at it no to long ago..HMMM
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t*r
Trad climber
☆•*¨*•.¸¸❤❤¸.•*¨*•☆
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it's not projection. i don't smoke pot and sit around using other people to inflate my fragile ego. based on what i've heard on the eastside i am not the only one who feels this way.
"jess sayin', yo."
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Some friends and I had a ball climbing the Lost Arrow Direct with a Tyrolian finish.
I remember sitting in slings thinking about the big features and cracks to the right......Werner said a lot about how beaten the tip is, he also said a lot about what's untouched.
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hydra
Sport climber
squeezed from a polyp in Medusa's bunghole
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T*R is LAME! Pot is mind fuel! Jess Sayin YO LOL
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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t*r speaks the truth on this one and you know it too Werner.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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You certainly did your part to promote it on the Wide World of Sports gig. Big crowds hangin out on the rim and all. Me sittin in front of a tube in Arleta with a Killian's Red wishin I had the nuts to be there makin the scene.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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There's a ton of super strong, super motivated climbers putting up routes in those areas and repeating the testpieces, for sure. There are a lot of people who just hang out in Camp IV or Hidden Valley Campground and live "tha dirtbaaag lifestylez." But those aren't really climbers. Just people living off trust funds :D
I have neither trust fund nor climbing skillz so I guess I fit into neither catagory. I guess I'm kind of a tourist, touring the classics that are done a zillion times a year. Fun though.
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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I too am not a 'trustifarian' or 'skilled climber'. 5.10d trad onsight is my best.
I have climbed alot in the Valley though and usually the most motivated climbers who get sh#t done there, that I have seen, are the visiting Euros. They don't have time to waste. And their not hooked on the 'chronic'.
I'll never do the tip free, but I would like to climb Lost Arrow Direct V 5.8 C2 this year.
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