Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 961 - 980 of total 1165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Feb 22, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
Dan,
Brought you chalk bag down from CSF area today. Hung it on the sign at the end of parking area.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
Dan, we climbed in the CSF and HOG areas. It was a full day, and the weather and conditions were perfect.

Regarding chalk bag, we found mine atop 5.8 Hand Crack early in the day and I now have it back. Texplorer, are you sure you were in the CSF area, we thought we had this area all to ourselves all day today.


We were setting up to explore the chimney gulley climbers left of HOG money pitch to top when our time ran out. HOG's money pitch and one to climbers left will be top of the ticket next time we're there. Very cool area!

Dan, noticed your work going on up there. Anchors at Two Lips, etc. Hope to meet up with you soon in this very cool area for more show n tell.


Laine is stoked to take on the roof!



PS. Laine, here's your pullharder linkup link...
http://pullharder.org/2012/07/16/star-trekkin-mithral-dihedral-link-up-c2c/
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2014 - 11:22pm PT
Moose, well hopefully soon! :)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 24, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
Was that you down there on Sat, Karsten? We saw another car but never saw anybody. Would have been nice to see ya.

Nice climbing with you again, Bill (and Leslie). Man, she can crank for a newer climber.

Anybody go a description on Drake's Passage (10a R)? Ryan mentions it on the Wood Hood front page, but that's it.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 24, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
Interesting. There looks to be several decent finishes up that wall. I'd love to play around on it a bit more.

Bill is interested in heading up the chimney gulley just left of the 3rd pitch of HoG. Ever sent that thing, Dan?
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 24, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
Sounds like great fun. Keep me in mind. I have a 9-5 so weekends are my only real time to play.

BTW - my 2 cents on the loose flake on CSF is it needs to go. It vibrates if you barely hit it and I believe it can be pull out by hand. Even with careful stemming/chimneying you still use it to jam.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
That was me up there today, Dan. I left before seeing your post.
Next round of good weather we'll have to get together, given our mutual interests.
What a fabulous area!

Who were you with today, you guys made excellent time on the approach.
It was you, was it not?
What a beautiful day. Full-on sun and hotness in Feb, like! I have to get a new camera,
dust has settled in on the lens system and apparently there's no getting it out. Sad, because
today was totally picturesque in every direction!

Were you guys trundling today, I thought there were a few times
I heard crashes below. Your developments in the area are evident
everywhere, nice!


Looks like the forecast is calling for rain and snow later this week.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78459874169886&lon=-119.81449127197266#.UwwQ44VnhOp


P.S. I think I could follow free if my 5.11 ropegun were to place his pro judiciously, skillfully,
and not in the 5.11 finger sections- so I could then blast through!


Money pitch protects very well, couldn't ask for better.
I wonder if there is a workaround at the roof (climbers left)
to the knobs above? to keep it 10d or so.

Happy climbing! :)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 25, 2014 - 01:14am PT
Damn Footloose you soloed that chimney to the top?! Was it pretty solid in there? At least you put on your rock shoes this time. Glad you got to check that final pitch.

Next weekend is probably good for skiing but I'll check in with everyone the following assuming I don't head down to Red Rocks.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 25, 2014 - 01:41am PT
The boulder up top is on route? Nice pic with 88 below. Propers posted.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Laine, remind me.

You said you once rapped the dihedral of HOG? I imagine it was challenging to get to the lower rap station without directionals? Or did you have a partner who was already down (who set directionals for his rap) help guide your rap? Wondering, as the plumb line of the pitch goes off the side pretty quick.
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:36am PT
How's it going bill? More pics! Looks like good weather down there just f*#kin rains here.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:50am PT
Kenny!!!!!11

Still rainy there, eh? Well consider it even more incentive to visit here ASAP! :)

I'll gather up a couple more pics...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:40am PT
No directionals needed to rap HOG...

Surprised to hear this, Jebus, but good to know. So you were (are) able to just friction traverse and keep yourself in the corner, huh? all the way down to rap station above roof huh? Maybe that was exceptional skillz on your part? Maybe a better man climber than me, lol!!

My goal was to rope solo the pitch, so this might have biased my thinking regarding use of directionals, maybe.

Dan, any route names to share around your slung trees, either the pine in picture above or mountain mahogany way up top. I rope soloed this east-facing face too, for a warm-up. Like.

Next time up, I'd like to try variations around the HOG dihedral pitch. I'd love to go today, weather again is awesome, but "at this age" I need a rest. :)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:58am PT
Interesting.

Okay, to be clear... If you set up your toprope off the anchors atop the dihedral pitch, it slides off climber's left within 30' or so (following its plumb line) over the wall and into gully. Right? Anyhow, that was my experience yesterday that prodded me to set directionals every 30' going down. Or maybe your friction was so little you didn't notice? Now I'm interested in rapping the route to pitch below the roof just to see! Rockclimbing, like!!

My sense of it...

EDIT Yeah, I might have over-thought this, however.
When you're an over-the-hill 5.3d climber, it happens. :)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
Did you lead the dihedral pitch, Jebus? Did you free it? The roof? the thin fingers higher up? Let's get together with Laine and Dan and do it again next good weather!

Definitely 4 stars.

Perhaps my pic above is a bit tilted, too. :)


Okay, I take it back. ;)


Kenny, this crack looks like it could be fun...
It lives just west and upward of Cat Scratch Fever.

Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 25, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
Footloose, you biggest issue TR'ing the roof pitch will be a swing from underneath the roof if you peel off before making it to the apex. Maybe set a directional about half way underneath (alternatively just don't fall).
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
We should distinguish between the "roof pitch" and "dihedral pitch" shouldn't we? - as long as we're (I'm) overthinking this, lol!

There's an anchor at the Mt Mahogany Tree (where I left my boots and you belayed me to the gully), there's a second chain anchor 6' or so above the roof, and of course the third chain anchor atop the dihedral.

Were I to lead the route, I'd belay at the Mt Mahogany anchor for the roof goodness; and then I'd belay above the roof at (rap) anchor (since it's there) to get a good view of leader on dihedral goodness. Of course I suppose you could lead over the roof and the dihedral in one shebang but then belayer as spectator, I think, is robbed of any dihedral "entertainment."

Alright, tmi.

Excited to get on these sections (subpitches, whatever) again. Next time I might bring my gym rope, too, so we can play on just the roof segment, I just cut it, it's 35m. Should work.


btw, the forecast blew it for today, as well. Not a cloud in the sky here in Carson Valley.

P.S. Jeebus, you work too much is all. ;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
We might be channeling each other, Dan! because I was just about to post up to ask you for the route names, if any, on the east-facing wall. But the east-facing wall I had in mind (and that I solo TRed) is of the HOG gulley, not the HOG tower. (Like the "tower" name, btw.) Here's a pic...


Crappy pic, washed out detail, due to dust in the lens system but it shows the east-facing wall I TRed for a warm-up and a bit of the mt mahogany on top I TRed from.

I did notice the bolts atop the HOG tower. Decided to save exploring those for next time. I think the route or routes below them are what you're referencing, is that right? Tell us about them.

It's a shame the weather has turned, once again...
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78459874169886&lon=-119.81449127197266#.Uw4iHIVnhOq

I have time to climb this season, let's get out, would like more show n tell in the area.

Inspiration for next sunny day...

Were I to TR solo the corner again, I still think I'd set directionals just for their convenience, whose potential benefit you might be able to see from above photo.

Dan, who has the FA on HOG roof and corner?
And, again, very nice work, thoughtful too, on the anchors there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
set for a high line slack line

Wow! So did anything come of this? What a neat thing to do!

And any established routes or names of routes on the wall in the pic I posted. At this time, it's more a blur to me because it's dirty up there, I was concerned about potential rock fall as I was pending / swinging back n forth and because I had HOG in mind for entree. But I remember thinking it was good.

So to be clear, is there anything down there then, on the east face of HOG Tower? In other words, were we to rap off those bolts (slackline bolts) anyway would we end up in any interesting area, eg at the base of routes?


Route(s) below this anchor?
I think Mark B and I were heading here when we got distracted by something else.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
Cool, Dan. Thanks.

Yeah, "Sissy Sue" rings a bell. I enjoyed that climb, fun little roof pull that protects well.

Mushroom Cap. LOL. If it's the same, I've been calling that big rock formation up there on the corner, Cap Stone. LOL!


I'm heading to the gym in a couple hours, I can comp if you show up. Short notice, I know.

Gotta stay strong, Footloose needs muscle to pull that roof next sunny day!!!
Messages 961 - 980 of total 1165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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