Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 921 - 940 of total 1384 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Gumby- yea the quality down low is chossy, but up high the jams are great on CS. Of Coarse is chossy till you reach the S crack (as the name implies). Glad you guys checked it out.

Dan n Kenny - I've got a new climb in the works up left of the Green Tongue. Scrubbed and pulled loose blocks for 4 hours yesterday. Might head back today to work a bit more. I think it's gonna be a good one. Steep thru roofs with great jamming and 3 variations to the chains. I also scoped Scott's lines, they look good.
Scott's 11c to the left of the roof?
Scott's 11c to the left of the roof?
Credit: Laine
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Sep 7, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
yeah Laine I thought those would be good. about forty feet left of G.T. right? then left of that on the light colored wall looks good.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Can't rotate these pics with my stupid phone
Can't rotate these pics with my stupid phone
Credit: Laine
Yup, that's its. Has a similar feel to ootd.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Sep 7, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Credit: laine
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
Those pictures are awesome, just look what I've been missing!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 7, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Hey, Kenny saw your cleaning tools below a climb on the Third Tier. We were having fun over at OOTD and decided to run up one of those cool looking lines we saw across the way. I got home and the mountainproject beta photo is a little unclear. Does Dr. Sleep have two bolts on it? I may have combined the "unnamed 5.11" with Dr Sleep? Also the chains have carabiners attaching them to the anchors and for lowering, if that helps narrow down the climb from the anchor I finished on.

Climbing was a little grainy, a little lichened up, but really fun, balancey. Good stuff if it's yours!

edit: aaannndd... the mountainproject description doesn't sound entirely like what I climbed. Oh well, good route nonetheless, somewhere in the 5.10+ range with some interesting pro at times.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Thanks guys. Spent another day scrubbing and rope soloed the route. I'd say it clocks in at a mellow 5.10. Steep but with good jams and rests. Pro to #2 with a set of nuts will do. Enjoy!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Thought that was you, Laine! Good work you're putting in there.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
Thanks Jebus- I'm not sure but I think you were on the 5.11 just right of Dr. Sleep. Dr. Sleep only has 1 bolt then traverse left under a roof to the chains.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
Okay, this one didn't do that traverse. It went up that thin double crack system up high. Had two bolts. Pretty fun climbing, a little adventurous.

Nice! Little ego fluff for me on the os, but we were thinking more like a 5.10d? Dunno.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 8, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Next time do cartwheel and numb bunion, Zach. Those are my 2 faves up there.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:16am PT
Thanks for the info, Chim. You're the FA?

Cool, Laine, will check those out. We definitely noticed those climbs on the way up there.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 8, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Going back up on tues. Maybe work on the Orange Face.

Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 8, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Scott, do you approach your climbs from the top? I soloed some 5th class vegetation BS to get to them and then over to the top of the green tongue wall. It was a sketchy adventurous thrashfest with a pig in tow. Not gonna do that again.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 8, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
Going in from the top sucks just as bad.

It's time for cloud walker to get bolted or the climb to the left needs to get cleaned and climbed. That would be the best approach.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
I finally have a little time off Tues-Thurs and if I can hook up with chim we could bolt up cloud walker.

Hows yours schedule Chim?

Shawn
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
Ron Ill use some just for you......with a little pig juice on em.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Bomz, si senor. Couldn't complete the double crack finish without the bolt... took three twenty footers, then blammed in a "bristler". Convinced Mark B to add the lower bolt, not particulaly hard climbing down there but a fall would be real bad. Dan K.


Wow! Yeah, it gets pretty full on in that section. Was the crack as clean as it is now up there? It's pretty clean now up there but down low there's some stuff needs pruning.

It really doesn't look that long from the base but is the FULL 35 meters. Knew I bought that 70m for more than just OOTD!

The lower bolt is appreciated too. My problem after that bolt was I had to climb a ways to get first psychological pro (a nut behind a hunka rock that would probably just tear) and then the 1" piece. I didn't bring a 4" that would have protected it perfectly a ways before. Oh well.

Anyhow, good route, I hope it gets popular to clean it up a little better.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Ron
Married life is great. She puts up with my sh#t so I cant complain. Loves to rock and ice climb and loves to go rockhounding with me so I cant complain. If you have any secret rockhounding spots Im all ears.
I do wish I could stop her from her bad habit of buying purses and shoes though.........although she is turning into a gear whore as well.......but it has to match!!!!!!!!! ahahahhah all biners have to match etc.
Shes great
Shawn

Tenaya
Tenaya
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Damn phone turns the pics????? Wtf
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Never heard of it. PM me if its secret Looking for anything
This is what I'm working on now
Agate and petrified peat bog
Agate and petrified peat bog
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Wyoming fish fossil I'm prepping out now.
Wyoming fish fossil I'm prepping out now.
Credit: BurnRockBurn
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