Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 881 - 900 of total 1379 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:05am PT
Oh jesus! Thank god it's harder than the Anderson guide suggests. I was thinking the whole time I'm really out of shape.

We were out there a few weeks ago and I got on Power Surge. I lead the first pitch and thought it was solid for .11c. Awkward but strait forward. The second pitch my partner started and gave up quickly on the overhanging fingers crack. I took over and thought the steep section was solid of .11c, the traverse was easy .10 or .9 but that upper flairing crack was a total sumbitch above. I struggled and fought, cussed and ran out of gear, you name it. With lichen filled eyes I squeaked out the onsight but it was definately one of the hardest won battles I've done in a while. Besides Basket Case, that was worse.

I wouldn't call it .12c though. .12a/b tops ;)
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Cool!

My friends went and cleaned up the top of Powersurge so that should help. No Lichen in the face.

Nice work with the OS. Chad I think you are stronger than you know :-D

How about a TR from Basket Case. I have been waiting for Alexy to write it up.

Sasha, no photo shop, Ben just really digs the bat hangs. I'm sure there are tons of routes up there. I really need to make a trip!

If you want to see more photos check out my friend Adam's blog:

http://climbinghouse.com/2013/08/bathanging-at-woodfords.html

He shot the photos from above.

 Luke
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Agreed about the impressive onsight Salamanizer. After we cleaned up the upper headwall, it looked more promising, but even 2nd attempt I still got whooped. Definitely one of the most fun routes I've done, and with more traffic to get rid of the remaining grit it'll be a classic. Thanks to whoever put the nice shiny chains at the top.

Sasha or Chim Chim, do you happen to know the names/grades of the routes around left of golden showers? When we were out there this weekend we thought we'd stumbled upon FA gold until we noticed the chains at the top... GS looks amazing and steep!!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Yeah, amazing pics! I gotta get up to that wall. Unlike Sal, I will give those routes the proper hang dogging they deserve.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
That name alone could change the way I feel about offwidths.
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker? It looks like some potential lines up there, but I'm not sure how you'd get up there. Maybe adventure pitch up the stuff to the left of the rock scar?

Or am I thinking cloud walker is a different route? I saw something with shiny chains up hill (east of the rock scar) in a narrow gully opposite a really clean looking corner crack and a sport bolted face. These two climbs were especially on the backside of the OOTDs feature.

Either way, if you have names grades for any of those routes it'd be much appreciated. I love to explore up there and knowing what's been done is always helpful.

Casey
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Ron,

I'm thirsting for new routes and willing to bushwhack, but it's be nice to know where to concentrate my efforts! Please point the way! Your topo of high energy area indicates that there is a nice wall on the back side facing westish. Any more info?!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
Ron and Laine thanks for the info! Unfortunately (or fortunately) I'll be in Spain for the fall betraying my inner tradie by clipping evil bolts under the Mediterranean sun. But I'll definitely pass on the info and continue my quest when I return in January.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 15, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
mantener a Espaņa negrita!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 15, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.


That is how I feel every time I enter the canyon. That place is rather confusing.

The onsight of Power surge wasn't that impressive. Rather, it was pretty grim. If I'd have known it was harder than .11c I'd have given up and not allow my ego to propel me further up that crunch fest. It was the second route of the day. Afterward, I sat in the shade feeling like I just got worked in an offwidth, drank a beer and was done for the day.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Aug 15, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
Yeah, Sal, confusing us how I see it sometimes too. It's quite the hike for dispersed cragging lots of times, but it is great in the winter, satisfies the FA bug for those who want to hoof it, and the cragging really is often quite good. I don't think it'll ever be a main climbing destination for some of those reasons, but that isn't a bad thing.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Aug 23, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Bottomfeeder, chim chim rising out of the filth... photo by d.clock.
Credit: the czar
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 23, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
FInally got that climb cleaned up, eh? Nice work.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 24, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
It was smokey there today! but fun climbing none the less
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 28, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Dan, climbing this weekend? I hear the smoke may clear

chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker?

there are three sets of anchors and Scott Thelen started cleaning them
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
I'm planning on getting out to the Fords one day this weekend. Hope to see all your smiling faces.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 1, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
Anybody down to climb tomorrow at the fords???
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Sep 1, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Kenny and I will be there at 9 AM at the woodfest site.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 2, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Sweet I'll probably tie in with you guys if that's okay
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