kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, those things seemed pretty bomber still at least in shear, it took a little effort with a three foot prybar. and I did use the same holes. Maybe I'll zip over to led zep and fix that up this weekend but it's perty cold over there.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
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Kenny, nice. That looks like 3". SS.
I've been thinking it's better to use ss locking washer in lieu of ss flat washer. Any thoughts there? I wish the hanger package came with ss locking washer.
Do you know if using 2 and a quarter wedge bolts for anchors in our granite are now substandard? or not?
On the other hand, maybe it would be no big deal to use cs locking washer together with the ss hanger and bolt.
I wonder if Chim uses 2 and a quarter or 3" for his anchor placements. Maybe he'll pipe in here.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Bill, just use the flat washer and pick up some nyloc nuts if your worried about it, or blue loctite.
Anybody been here?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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If yer not hand drilling why not go deep? 2- 3/8x 2 1/4 should be sufficient for hanging a couple pickup trucks
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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Yeah, that's the ticket. I pick up some of those nyloc washers.
I'll use the 3". I just wanted to hear any feedback on what is and isn't the standard these days in our granite.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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There is like six sets of anchors on top of the apron and it looks like they pounded 3/8 allthread into the holes. I thought it looked funny that all the anchor bolts had been cut off and then I saw a 5 foot peice of allthread laying in the woods. I wonder if it's glued in? does'nt look like it.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Quite something to find those so solid after all these years.. They were there in 76. Good job using the original holes and all. No one ever did know who put that up..
I HAVE NO CLUE about those anchors. There was NONE as of the mid nineties. Other than the mystery bolt ladder thats ends abruptly up on the highway face. All climbs could be naturally anchored.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, that looks like an anchor on the orange wall about half way up do you know what that is?this is at the apron there is an anchor on this one.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Kenny, the only Orange wall route im aware of is Paul Crawfords route "through the most obvious crack and roof system on the face"..
is that crack and roof pic up behind the apron on the S face of cracker cliff?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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This one?
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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doh,,, yeah that looks mo like it..Aided that back in prehistoric times. Heard someone freed it though. Dang Monkey kids!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, It's not the cracker cliff but in that vicinity I'm gonna drag Mark Bauer up there tomorrow
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Theres one on cracker- the S face that looks similar- through a roof,,Around the corner to the east of cracker and the west face routes. Heard it went at hard 12...Fer me it was only A 2..
edit Would that be the same Bauer as the Fa-ist on many High enegry routes??
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Yep, the world famous mr. BIG  Missing photo ID#292140 |
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Bitchin! Get a good pic or two for me- ill put it in the forward im writing! The dood cranked some good stuff over on the N face side!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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good for another 20
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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must be the clean mtn air and the GUD juju of the canyon towards its vertical inhabitants.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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that should kinda put the stainless/plated steel debate to rest. That is to say that if you want to spend the money on stainless cool, but if you don't yer probably not gonna kill someone. they should be replaced every twenty years or so anyhow
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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puts a dent in it eh!
I dont know how much traffic those bolts saw, but i imagine the had a few hangs over the years. Ya had to be a real "slabber" to get to the lil corner. And then the bush.. Home free after that to the PINE TREE BELAY lol!
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