Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 641 - 660 of total 2086 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Hey Shawn, I think were gonna make it up there tomorrow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Zero snow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Are you heading up?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
WML,

There's several ways to get to "Serenity Now" (.10d), but I'll give you the directions I'm most familiar with.
First, you have to make your way to the "Way the Hell Up There" (.11c) area. The climb starts to the right, and slightly lower down from the base of that route.
To get there traverse right from the bottom of High Caliber Corridor to a short 3rd/ easy 4th class section. This scramble is marked by a singular pine tree. After the initial scramble keep traversing east and slightly up, angling towards "Way the Hell Up There". The first pitch (of two) climbs on the right side of that formation.
Pitch one is characterized by broken and discontinuous climbing; kinda alpine-like. The end of the pitch goes up a couple short corners and deposits you on a ledge on the climber's left. It's only an access pitch leading you to the goods, which are on the second pitch.
Pitch two leaves the ledge on it's right side and climbs a finger crack to a crack switch about 20' up. Follow the crack as it arcs leftwards to a two bolt anchor. Awesome.
To descend rap Serenity Now's anchor to the ledge. Scramble 40' south to the top of "Way the Hell Up There" which is behind you when you're at the base of Serenity Now's second pitch. Rap off two bolts to the ground.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Don't forget to climb the two climbs to the left of serenity now. The right facing corner is Banana Republic 5.9 the center route( I forget what I named it is 5.10d. The approach pitch has excellent rock just a little broken. The traverse to the left across some knobs from the left-facing corner is awesome. Just That Easy, do I know you? Dan K. Oh heh Ryan!
Wlm the squat formation above ould is the albatross equipped and ready to climb.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:07am PT
Did anyone get up there this weekend? We're going up on Tuesday. Kenny are you going up? D.K.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
Hey Chim! Sounds like great temps the next few days. You plan on doing more cookin' tomorrow?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Dan, mark and I are heading up today.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Two of us got out to woodfords yesterday. Slightly over cast, cold and windy as hell on the wall. We tried a line Id scoped earlier, but since neither of us could feel our fingers, committing to a akward layback in a steep corner on tiny gear as the wind chilled us to the bone wasnt in the cards. Maybe next time.
moving into the corner
moving into the corner
Credit: Laine
THIN gear in an akward corner.
THIN gear in an akward corner.
Credit: Laine
As soon as we bailed the wind died down. Feeling a new sense of inspiration (and warmth) we decided to give a nearby oldskool crack a go. But as luck would have it as soon as Jason racked up, the wind kicked up and the light began to fall behind the wall. Regardless of this piercing wind and fading light he got after it.

Joe Herbst would love this route! Wide hands to offwidth to chimney, gardening as you go. A slick, slabby corner with a few finger jams (once excavated) guards a nice ledge just below broken slabs at exactly 30m. Full value the whole way (though it doesn't seem it from the ground). I followed and literally cleaning as I climb. We setup an anchor and got outta Dodge. I kid you not, as soon as I touched back down to terra firma, the wind stopped yet again. Just another day a fords!
starting on the slab
starting on the slab
Credit: Laine
the crux of the matter
the crux of the matter
Credit: Laine
chimney section &#40;quite slick&#41;, pro in the back
chimney section (quite slick), pro in the back
Credit: Laine
Jason stopping to do a bit of gardening to unlock the finish
Jason stopping to do a bit of gardening to unlock the finish
Credit: Laine
looking down the route
looking down the route
Credit: Laine
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 11, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
Cool, er should I say COLD!
Love the pics, thanks for posting up!!!
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 11, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Nice photos Laine, we were up today beutiful blue skys but cold.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
JUST T E no stove we're going to The Hood Sasha Christina and Adam. If we set them up maybe we could go up on Topo or what not. Give a shout
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Might I suggest giving this a go...

Credit: Footloose


It's steeper than it looks in the photo. Bring your OW skills. :)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Footloose, is that the main aclove?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
wml, yes 5.9 according to the lit.
laine, it seems to me above it but its categorized this way in this list...

main alcove: toprope wall

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=881711&msg=883188#msg883188

Wear pants!
Hit it first thing in the east sun.
If you do it, would like to read the report!

An onsight lead would be impressive! :)



EDIT

Anyone have a picture of Carabiner Crack?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Footloose and WML,

The Toprope Wall isn't really in the Main Alcove. It's quite a ways east and uphill. In terms of a climbing day it would make sense to combine this area with say the Red Pillar or, better, Serenity Now and it's neighboring climbs.

As far as the climb you highlighted, Footloose, it's not really an OW. It climbs more as a hand/fist crack and has some nice knobs for feet so it never gets terribly desperate or hard. A solid 5.9 seems appropriate. I usually bring two #3 camalots, one #3.5 and one #4 as my biggest piece. Also, hand size gear (and maybe slightly smaller?) is useful.

If you're up there and want to bump it up a letter or two you should climb Mission to Mars (.10-). It's located to the climber's left when starting up the first pitch of Serenity Now. It climbs on the same formation as Way the Hell Up There, about 200' to the climber's right of that line.

For Mission to Mars you'll want a #5 (new style) along with the gear I listed above. Look for a large right leaning ramp in a void (it makes sense when you see it) with a steep wall behind it. There's a large orange roof above the start. Stem up between the ramp and the steep wall (5.7 or 5.8,R) until you reach a horizontal 2" crack. Then turn the roof to the left and charge up the obvious corner to a 2-bolt anchor.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Just a question, why the anonymity?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
Hey Kenny!

I'm not trying to be secretive, just haven't signed my name, haha. Glad to hear you're getting out. How are those new Totem's? I'm thinking of getting some.

Cheers,

Ryan
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
I had a feeling that was you but didn't want to say it in case yer hiding from a female stalker haha. It's fun stuff up there, are you heading out any time soon? Oh the Totems seem really cool You can try mine one day.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
I'm out in Durango right now, and then I'll probably be sent off to a job somewhere (hopefully). I'll hit you up when I get back in town and we'll go climbing. You should drag Meliska out, too.
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