Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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soo it was nice yesterday up there WML,, whaddya do?
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Ron, went up with a buddy of mine who is newish to climbing and just wanted to spend some time hanging out with him since I am moving in the next few weeks...climbed the Red Pillar and explored a bit. I think I saw the 10a you had posted about somewhere (perhaps up-thread?) that starts out with a nice hand crack leaning to the right that gets into some blocky terrain after that? Short but looks great. I want to get one more Woodfords trip in before I move to Vegas - get on OULD, Arrowhead, and Whisker Biscuit. Maybe even a return to Cat Scratch Fever ;-)
Regarding Red Pillar...WTF @ the anchor placement. Very illogical...felt like I got trolled when I got to the top of the pillar, looked up, and went "fvckin' a, really??!?!"
edit: the aforementioned RA 10a is on the right-hand side of the Sun Wall as you hike up the hill. Also, man this area needs to be better organized on Mountain Project and better documented. There were so many lines there that looked attractive if I were up there with one of my other partners or had we not gotten a late start etc.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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if your talking first crux, thats a 5.9 that Sigi and Bill put up..
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Ahhh, okay, yeah looked about 5.9, thought you said it was 10a at some point. Just walked up to it, groped it, and then went on our way on the way out. Looks fun though! Super short, but fun.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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yup- just around the corner to the right from Red pillar..;-)
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Hm, interesting. Was downhill to the left of the Red Pillar from what I recall. Just on the right-hand side of the Sun Wall as it faces East. Right-slanting hands to thin hands it looks like to some kind of little cruxy looking block in the crack and then it turns into blocky terrain. Maybe 50' tall?
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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hmmmm then im not sure..;-)
was it this?
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Just searched your "First Crux" thread, that's it I'm pretty sure. It is between Red Pillar and Sun Wall, down the hill from Red Pillar up the hill from Sun Wall.
Again, looks fun! Saw some cool looking splitters up the gully from Red Pillar, what're those? Some wide looking things, too. Some steep wall that may have had a thin crack? I'm sure all of it has been climbed...man, I wish this area were better documented. Oh well, maybe by the time I come back to visit again the area will be better documented. Love it up there. My friend, however, did not enjoy the approach, bwahhahaa.
EDIT:
Kind of starts on its own little ledge where it drops off to the climbers left of the climb a little? IE: not walking terrain. I remember that as I bouldered the first few moves with a pack on lol
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Ron, First crux is immed. around the corner from sunwall, right? I thought left of red pillar. I'm headin up today. Weston, if you haven't done whisker biscuit you should. and the easy routes in the cat scratch area are a lot of fun as well.
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Sounds like the description for First Crux to me. The Red Pillar route is ok but the stuff on the front side of the formation are much better and offrer a great approach to the Main Alcove where Up the Nuthin' is located... never did that route, went left at the triangular roof section a steep 10+ overlap led to a belay in the trough. I "fixed" an old cam anchor and rapped to the base of the second pitch of Serenity Now, possibly the best 5.10 crack in the area. Dan There are three climbs above the large ledge at the Top of the books. From left to right 5.6r, 5.8 and 5.7.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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yeah,, you guys are right,, my coffee is just kickin in ..;-)
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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kenny,
I've done the easy routes over on the left side...the .7 book, .8 hand crack and Cat Scratch - those were all on my first visit to the canyon a few years back on my birthday!
Chim, agreed that Red Pillar is just OKAY. Saw some hype about it and was fairly disappointed. Some cool moves, some definite awkwardness, and some poor rock quality up higher. And that anchor, c'mon....dafuq?
How does one get to Serenity Now? Any way one could link OULD to that in a reasonable fashion? Also, got any pics of Serenity Now?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Red Pillar anchors are way messed up. Had the same experience when we topped out. Spicy for sure.
Chim Chim. Are you heading up tomorrow? I need to get the Hell out of work. Shoulder is still f'd up but its workable.....
Shawn
WML
The area is actually very well documented by Chim Chim. Just not available at your local book store.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Shawn, esp with the inevitable rope drag. Even tried to minimize gear placed beneath arch...still a b!tch to move right of the pillar to make those spicy moves to the anchors.
I want to get one final classic round of Woodfords with my friends before I leave town...OULD and if Serenity Now is that good, that is definitely on the list. Any of you guys done that Arrowhead (11a) thing? It any good?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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The rope drag sucked under the arch. Rope Caught under a cam there and was stuck, had to downclimb to unstick it.
OULD is classic. Top out and there are several more climbs on the next tier that are spectacular. Cant remember the names but there is a 10a corner crack that chim lead barefoot with me several years ago.
Its all good up there.
Shawn
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Cool! Yeah, was looking at OULD from Walking Jack a few weeks ago and have been obsessed with wanting to give it a go when I get there. Is OULD 10d like Sun Wall Left is 10c or more like Walking Jack is 10+? LOL.
Both are classic though, for sure. That 10a corner sounds fun. Gonna miss that place, super fun.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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OULD I believe is 10c. Crux is a balanced move that throws you to the right when you need to stay balanced left to place gear. So much up there and so little time. When you heading up?
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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No idea yet, gotta confer with partners. Also trying to figure out when I am going to LV and if I will go to look at houses myself or just have my dad take video and give 'em a look over for me.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Well keep me in mind. If Im off Im willing to hike up and give you a last tour. Im out as far as leading right now, seconding only now, but I can show you and your group some stuff.
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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What's up with the cliff directly above Bandit crag? sounds like someones been doin some stuff there. we were heading up today but my partner got hung up.
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