Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jul 1, 2010 - 11:09am PT
Chim and Footy
Im off the next six days and may be able to get up there with you guys on one of my days off. Let me know.
Shawn
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 1, 2010 - 11:34am PT
Footloose, did you Sic Em on that wyde crack on the original post? Been back to that thing?

Watch out for that Cilley guy....
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
Jaybro, no I'm saving the Big Bad Wolf
for you! Grab the gang, or even one, come on up,
we'll get on it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 1, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson



a little bit of hysteric-- oops historical photos LOL...

"in the 70s" is a nice lil woodfords unit i think the date was 1979.Me on the fa...

In the pic on the left, is one of the crags above Grovers hot springs,, DAN,,,, one of the splitter corners can be seen (the top of it) on the right side of the wall im on.there are five routes we put up in 77. including an aid route that would no doubt go free now.... click on the pics for an enlargement....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 2, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
bump for Dan so ya dont have to dig for it...
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
No one but us (B,S,R) at OOTD buttress, today,
it was beautiful.

But I missed my cap.


EDIT

Ron, why not come on down one of these
days, check it out. We could talk taxidermy,
used to do as a kid.

Maybe you remember a place called Jepedos
in Carson City, circa 1974, chockfull of animal
hides and specimens.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 2, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
I need to get to the canyon to see whay you guys are up to!! Heck Yeah I remember Japedos!! Didnt they have one of those "back rooms" LOL!!!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 2, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
Number 69 yeah! We've been up past the Steeple climbing on some of the best rock in the canyon. We found a rare 5.8 1300 ft.+ above the canyon floor. a beautiful but pristine(filthy) corner with excellent thin hand jamming and small stemming foot holds, 70 ft. It shares an anchor with a 5.11b project... it needs two bolts for pro. A liitle farther down canyon two new climbs share a two bolt anchor the corner is 5.10a and the splitter finger crack to arete to wide hand crack checks in at 5.11d. A lone bolt protects some moves above a hard to place nut. Without it decking could be a definate possibility. We're getting a new camera so I'll be posting pictures regularlly...sorry.

Funny huh Bill how people fight the crowds when they could have a "real wilderness experience" with such little hardship. with a repeated invitation... no takers. They don't want to know what they're missing its been obvious for a while now. People need to be around other people we;re social animals and the lack of traffic in a neglected area proves it.
Maybe if someone with a bigger reputation among the members of this forum statred to express intersest the area. it would get the attention it sorely deserves... heh when Nut job had a T.R. about the Woodfords people we're all Pysched up. When I try to share some valuable info I just hear crickets. :{ I guess I don'T rate to well... but I don;t care
Credit: Chim-Chim
Credit: Chim-Chim
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520
Credit: Chim-Chim
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520
photo not found
Missing photo ID#130520

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 08:06am PT
Chim,,,,Relax and enjoy.....Woodfors is the place to "get away". Its always been like that....Here it sets in close proximity to populations yet sets peacefully by..THus its true beauty! Some day it will not be like that....dont be in a hurry.....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 08:11am PT
Wessy, Bertha is "quite stable"..... Actually the crack/corners above the apoxie wall is where bertha came from!!! you can match up right where she used to be above the apoxie wall....tid bit o info....
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2010 - 09:21am PT
Missed you yesterday, Chim, I'll call you next
week to see if you get out. No worries about spreading
the word, we love ya for what you do. ;)

(Why's that farm animal on top of that little dog?)
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 09:49am PT
Sorry Ron, I'll try to relax, but when you here about a route that people say is obscure when it sits twenty feet to the right of one of the most popular climb at the leap, it get my gander up. You should definatally come up soon, the place is going off! If people start coming up on a regular basis we wouldn't have to get out the brush every spring, and instead we could focus on new stuff. I feel a certain resposibility to make sure the older routes stay in condition, but I'd rather just see chalk from recent ascents rather than cobwebs and new munge. But thats life... and it's way better than working. See you soon. We'll be in Cloudburst Canyon Monday and maybe tuesday. Come on up.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 10:06am PT
LOL,,,, No worries Chimmer!! Back in da day we never said a peep about the canyon -- theres at least about fourty routes that didnt even make the guide...Besides, what R U doing repeating routes LOL!!!!!


In all honesty I do commend you for the efforts as well as your love for that special place.. Its gone through quite a transmogrification over the years. I was on the acorn fire that took out the south facing side in under two hours...Gots tons of memories in that canyon...even came face to face 24" away from a mtn kitty there once- only time in my life i was scared speechless..... The panoramic views from the rock there are imo stunning...One of the routes never mentioned was a "section 20" type venture thats composed of about 800 feet of climbing- on very good stuff!!

I would have thought by now that there would be throngs in Woodfords, but the acceptance of the bosch and popularity of sport routes re-directed said throngs..Ive never sat "in line" in the canyon thank Gawd!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 10:30am PT
"Never had to wait in line... thank gawd" Perhaps one of the biggest understatments of the year. Heh Ron was that section 20 like route located east of the fortress and west of Epoxy wall? A couple of friends said they did a route that sounded similar. Also did you'all climb that thin crack on a small triangular wall across the creek from one of these days. I found an anchor... a little "dodgy" now. We cleaned the crack thoroughly a couple of years ago and it checks in at 5.10c/d... with the micro wires and tiny cam placements it's an exciting lead. A nice 5.10.a to the right shares the anchor. I installed a stainless steel anchor 20 feet above the original one, and clip one or both bolts and continue up. There's also four new climbs up and to the right aalong the ramp system that rises form the stream crossing. S. Watson did a great job on a couple of those routes.
Have a great fourth of July. Dan
klimski

Trad climber
Bridgeport,CA
Jul 3, 2010 - 10:53am PT
Chim ,Tina and I had a great time up at the steeple. Lots of work for us right now but we'll be back in a couple weeks for a weekend of sick routes and of course no crowds, section 20ish ehh?
Klimksi
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 11:18am PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


more "woodstoricals"

top left, Jim Arnold doing his very first aid ever on bertha...89
top right Steve Yasmer doing "first crux" 2nd ascent 88 a gorgeous lil woodfords clssic...

lower is Bill Nagel enjoying the view on "children of the sun" fa 77, and me on the 11b slab on the apron around 89..



Actually there are AT least 2 section 20s there, one is as you described, the other is farther west (orange wall region)... ANd possibilities for such are numerous I seem to remember Pual C doing something in the region of the anchor you found~ ill check the memory banks LOL!

click on pics to enlarge.....
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 3, 2010 - 11:30am PT
Klimski, it was good to see ya, heh we met some friends of yours at Eagle Lake cliff< Brent O and Shelly? Nice folks give, shout when you come up.
Nice pictures Ron, you must have sticky feet that slab is tough. Chow for now, Dan

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 11:52am PT
lol,, i was into slabs, the more run out, the better...i was wierd that way...You need to get up to the grovers spot,,, for realsies...Theres hidden gems 30 min from the meadows edge..... And I gots to meet you guys sometime,, as the new bearers of the "wood-torch" as it were! Takes balls to be a woodfords addict... what with the kittys and bears and approaches but that is all part of its charm for sure....

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
a little ot woodfords story~~

A markleeville-ite Wayne Thompson and I were on a fire near the top of apoxie wall mass. we had been helicoptered into this massive juniper growing out of a buttress. a pain in the arse to even get near. two days later, they flew us in a sling load of supplies..now, this is the "old" days of the usfs,,and kindly there was a twacker of beer in it !!!

soooo we partied down that night along with "other goodies" often found in web gear at that time,,, and passed out to a good nights sleep..
Next morn, Im the first to raise up outta the sleeping bag and i lean back on my arms slowly surveying the morning...I look around and the thought,, "what the f-ck did we do last night" runs through my head as i look around at shredded c-rats,,cans torn apart,, our two morning beers shredded too !! Wayne woke up and I asked him WTF?? He looked as puzzled as me....Then,, we saw the tracks of the bear who had his way with our stash LOL!. he had walked all the way around us both but appearently our stinky-ness must have thwarted any thought of molestation BWAH!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Jul 3, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


more at Grovers,,, the right two are Tom Sullivan aka "henry" leading first pitch of a chimney/offwidth on beautifull granite."Henry & Henry", 5.9x both pitches. We had some tubes, but this was flaring big and smooth..the good news was, that the belay was some bomber big hexes. lol! and belaying was cake didnt even have to hold the rope.. .. left, is Bob Rose starting up a 110 foot vert wall in the groves area. below, Bill (i dont need no stinkin pro) Nagel aka "henry"...1977 photos by Ron, aka "henry"...

I dont know of any other activity here, but there are gems to be had mostly in the one to two pitch ranges..and hey it should count as Woodfords since its on the backside of the mountain mass of the south side of the canyon LOL!

click phots to enlarge,, as usual..
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