Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 581 - 600 of total 2081 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
I'm gonna take a walk up there today and take some pics.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Thanks Kenny
Look forward to your "trip report"
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

bottom of Bandit crag--Al Case on the start of a seven pitch sec 20 adventure feb 78..




Shawn,,, not sure if it was brass or just plain stooopid!

Heres a typical three pitches.. The first straight forward up easy cracks and buckets. Then a wander over north around blocks, and a short rap into a notch followed by another ok section.. Then a traverse left and around. Then - well you get the drift lol.. It was simply looking for the next cool looking extenuation and figuring out how to get there. The crux can be getting off and down!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Adventure climbing at its finest.....
If I would have started climbing in my Early 20's I probably would be dead by now. Luckily I started at 30 and understood consequences of injury. ie mortgage not getting paid. Damn I miss my 20's......
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Naw,,, i was climbing from 15 on,, im still here.. But im smarter now,, i think..;-)

There was some impressive trundles on those ventures as well you can imagine. The "tops" of the spines going up the gullys are as adventurous as you can get. Probably harder than the sawtooths traverse only in miniature.

And when i refer to a pitch, some were maybe fifty feet horizontal..A rap and climb out also counted for a pitch lol! You get to figure out back belays too! Some maneuvers made you get inventive with rope work..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson

this would be a typical top for such a climb,, which, as you can see is the exact reason they werent included in any guide
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
I can only imagine the smell from all the trundled boulders there when you did that "route"
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Kenny, if ya come across a few buckets with some gear in them on your walkabout (though I doubt you'd find em), those be mine.

Take good notes, there are a lot of "gems" up there
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Pure gold Ron!

I enjoy your stories more than K2 reports. They make me feel young and careless again :)))

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Yes, the "burnt" powder did linger occasionally. That and the scent of wearing rope from DRAG!

In TRUTH, there may have been moments of slight panic and or claustrophobia within these adventures. I remember specifically rapping down off a block ledge into a sharp notch. Then being committed after we pulled the rope to a traverse around several gendarmes that we flipped the rope around for pro and couldnt see where any of it was leading really. I finally got to a point of rounding a slight corner and was about fifty feet out and was pulling rope for a clip when one of the gendarmes teetered over- on the rope side! It was fairly large and i just grabbed the rope and held on for what i thought was gonna be the last ride, but the spirits were there and the rope just slid from the piece as it went over the edge- didnt even bugger the rope at all. All the while, Al was screaming to me - he thought i had gone too as he was out of sight. smelt that smell then..

And crawling through tunnels uner huge blocks ALWAYS gives me the willys! At one point we tunneled through after a rap and were literally climbing the OTHER side of what we had done previoulsy,, kinda..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Laine, is this one yers? I saw two bolts and anchors up a vertical dike
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
that is definately some quality granite up there, I would love to climb that thing but it looks like somebodys project. anyone got info?
Credit: kennyt
1st bolt
1st bolt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
does look like a cool line..


BOYEE am i glad im not doing the NEW guide LMAO!!!!! Twas much easier bitd..;-D
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Kenny - yea that's what we call Tumbledown House (2p 11a-ish). Named for the amount of death blocks we had to trundle in order to make the route climbable as well as an AZ band (friends of one of the FAists). The route follows that dike all the way to the top and is very uncharacteristic of the fords (smooth, in-cut crimps).

To the left of that route is Roof Bravado and 2 others cracks that all converge at an exciting roof. Yard over the roof to a 2 bolt anchor (hand drilled to keep it oldskool), run some laps or continue up and right on the 2nd pitch (5.8) to the vertical dike of Tumblehouse and follow it to the top. Give em a go and gimme some feedback, I'd love to hear what you think - unless you hate them ;)

We've been calling this place Crystal Wall because there is a bunch a quartz laying around (moreso than in other gullies nearby); however if an name has already been chosen I will be happy to edit the info I've posted. If you continue east past that gully, the next wall you'll find is Deadwood Wall. This is a single-pitch wall with several 5.8's and 5.9's that are a classic and any I've done in the fords. Chimneys, corners, hand cracks, and OWs all within feet of each other.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
out with the topos Laine..;-) cmon now...
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Ron, that topo drawn on paper looks more like a map out of a corn maze than a route. LOL

Thanks for the recent pics guys,
but can we get some action shots please?
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
just click the links and you'll find all the info. But here ya go anyway...

Credit: Laine
Credit: Laine

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Laine, is Tumbledown house a mixed route I only saw two bolts?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Topos,, not descrips..;-)


edit: Tad,, yeah corn maze would have been a great name for such! Being young and baked outta my gord made such things fun...Except when we were freaked. which was about once per pitch..
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
Kenny, yea you can place thin pro between bolts. There is one more bolt higher up (3 total). Clip it and make a friction move to the prominent jug that sticks out in the skyline of your last pic. Yard the jug, wipe your brow, and climb to the anchors.
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