Chim-Chim
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Ron, I placed a new fixe ring anchor about twenty feet or so above the anchor that exists just over the lip. Two lead climbs finish at either anchor. The left hand route climbs a face to a horizontal crack then goes up through a 2 foot roof and finger crack above. A shallow corner/flake leads to a dicey traverse right to the original anchor or a better variation goes straight up to the higher anchor. The right hand lead goes up a thin splitter. Is that the original route? I removed a five foot wedged flake... didn't change the grade. I climbed a dirty crack above. A short traverse out a triangular roof then a bulge with hands to the top. Does that ring a bell? Great climbs over there. Nice afternoon shade. Never Ever land lies on the tier above with great views of the falls. Dan
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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Yes that was the original line-- it sounds right..It may have only been done a couple of times that i know of back then. we left a rope on it for a while for reasons i wont explain publicly lmao!;^) AHHHhh Dano,, yur missed...
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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Great comments. I love the old photos. They retain some amount of mystery that hi-res pics can take away from a route.
While the knowledge is being spread, anyone know anything about this bohemeth? It's located in the canyon west of Bandit Crag (northside of the hwy). There was a bolt spotted on the lowest part of the wall as of Jan 2012 (bottom left side of the pic right of the pine tree). The wall is not as consistently steep as it appears, with several blocky, loose bands, but there are a few descent possibilities. Anyone know of any routes on this guy?
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Me no know
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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Here's a few shots from downhill and mid-wall. I was excited about the possibilities from afar but thought it rather lackluster up close, though a few single pitchers looked ok.
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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Looks great.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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i THOUGHT someone has been exploring that side of the draw from Bandit-- maybe in another thread perhaps, or this one- not sure, but it does ring a bell.
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
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Jay Sell may have been up there to think of it.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
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I know ive heard things..but --you know,, im gettin oldcrsutier n shyt...But that stuff has seen some action i imagine. Its the easier reached draws in that area really. Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89..
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89
Well the bolt is at the end of a shallow little crack and I remember speculating if the party continued up into runout slab terrority (no other bolts) or if they traversed right into a good looking, right-facing book 1 pitch up (see the shaded corner in the second picture). That book is the most obvious line on the wall but you can't take a direct approach to it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you described, Ron.
Maybe something like this?
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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Laine,,I dont believe that is over booked - it was a 100 foot route, starting in a left facing corner then out under a rectangular roof to the right and a short crack finish- the bolt was at the right hand side under the roof. It maybe on the highway facing end of those formations- above mama cat boulder.
Ive been looking at those pics to see if i could recognize it but cant pick it out.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
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Dan, I climbed at the Fortress with Mark B today I have to agree with Milton Mugambe on the quality of the Whisker biscuit. I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack though.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
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Ron you have to refresh my memory-it was only 34.5 years ago. So soon i forget things. Anyway ,is what you call Suicide Falls in the Flying Block area the biggest formation in the lower part of the canyon and right of the creek?If so, and Flying Block takes a direct line up the best looking part of the tallest section then i believe it is very similar to Senior Center Slab.We climbed it hammerless and found protection to be very sparse sept. 1978.Could have used some pins or bolts and probably still does.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
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Hey Rick-- yes, the flying block started 100 feet right of the waterfall- its in the pic upthread it could be much the same take a look at the shot of the face i took with the route outlined ..We called it the flying block, because, a HUGE chunk that was forming a corner i planned to climb- left the building so to speak-- it was ten feet high by about that wide and four feet thick at the base. It went when i started to lie back it.
meanwhile the descrip from the guide:
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
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Rick,,,heres the topo pic of the flying block and beaulah the pumper we did on the right side of the falls.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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Ron i only remember the route because we got a downright thrill (read scared us silly) out of the business pitch. Your description and picture dont do much to jar the memory loose other than to mention hard mantles which we encountered.I remember dead seems, that didn't take protection worth a shat, more than grooves. Of course it was 34.5 years ago and we never went back to that formation.Somewhere up canyon is a 4-6 pitch arete with cracks from finger to chimney but mainly offwidth to chimney in the 5.9 range that my younger brother Pat and i did in the early 70's.I'll be damned if i can even sight what formation it was on these days.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Your route was probably to the right-of both of ours- as that was the mid face- 400 feet from the water fall or so..? I remember s large chunk of rock that way as well. And yeah,, i have a few lost routes either in memory OF or memory WHERE,, take yur pick lol! Thankfully i have younger buddys that have sharper memories..;-)
edit: I TOO got a THRILL out of the business pitch and the pro was really "imaginary" and might just have rattled out at any moment. a long dong dropped behind a teensie flake like a chock was the best of the pitch, and wouldnt have stopped didly. I remember thinking "Royal" would be proud of me right now,, but i hope i dont perish ! Henry got to the belay after that face and commented,, damm good lead Henry! I said - yeah,, and i aint ever doing it again! (So Thanks Scott, for the retro bolts, it really improved it to something someone can shoot for with some sanity.) I would have bolted it if i had HAD bolts with me, but noooo we were into the cleanliness thing. and ya can still not clip any for the FA effect if you want..;^)
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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Dig the stories Ron!
OK so you gave us the "Flying Block" story,
that must have made a big noise when it hit the base.
Any backstory to "Beaulah the Pumper"?
How many pukes to that formation?
.7 sounds good, right at my geezer limit. LOL
Tad
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Tad,, this is a breeze approach- one of the shortest in the canyon. an hour if ya loligag and smell the flowers,, stop for snacks or a puff , or 30 minutes hustling. Right up behind the Woodfords intersection and store- where hgy 4 takes off from 88. theres a defined trail up to the falls stay close to the rock and avoid the brush from hell below it...
Beaulah, was the station made "engine" in markleeville for the USFS- a custom ol dodge power wagon with a five hundred gallon tank and rumble seat.
We named it after her..She was to be retired soon..sadly...All three of us worked in MRKL for the circus at that time.
edit : Yes, when it went it made a huge roar, kncoked down a large quakie on the way the exploded against the creek bottom in a huge ball of rising dust. The nature of the route kept it far from Henry at the belay so it was just a good show, but made the pitch go a different and much harder way.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
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Ron,I think Scott was bullshitting.
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