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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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It's a 5.9 I forget the name I think it's in Rons book
1st crux?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Can we add a convenience anchor to that thing?
I'll show my birth certificate
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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That's was what I was thinking but was unsure. It looks good. I'll have to check that out this weekend along with Up to Nuthin and that delicious looking unknown 10c (FA T. Herbert) to the left of Red Pillar. That 10c is one of the cleanest hand/finger cracks I've seen in the fords! Too bad it isn't longer.
We should also think about moving the anchors at the top of the pillar (they are looking pretty rusty). Next time I'm up there I'll take a few pictures and post em up for feedback on what we could do (if anything).
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I don't think anyone would be butthurt by replacing existing anchors if yer motivated take yer bolt kit instead of the camera.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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The problem is that there is not a lot of options up there. The best place to put them would be on a boulder sitting atop the pillar but it is questionable (its big but sitting on a slope near the edge, kinda chossy). Probably not gonna lug up the drill next time and I would like other peoples 2cents on the best location. When I climbed RP I belayed from the top to minimize the rope drag. Have others lowered after finishing the route and belayed from the bottom? Depending on the norm, the location will be different (set back vs near the edge).
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sorry bout that MD - how's this...
The perfect lieback is neither.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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1st crux takes 3 times as long to walk off as it doe's to climb ;)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I was up on the Apron and counted at least 7 sets of anchors, did I already mention that?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Yes seven that I counted I probably missed some.
2 sets above the freezer box, 1 set at don't let me down,2 sets at the two flaring cracks near west wall route and two more sets high on the westwall across from Henrys unit.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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see my post above, you still use the tree for woodthin
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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It looks like they just bashed allthread rod in the holes I found a 5 or six foot piece in the bushes.no signs of epoxy at the holes
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I like the idea. I could brew some Woodfords beers for the occasion. Maybe a Cat SCratch Fever Jalapeno Ale or a Whisker Buscuit Wheat and a Hillside Strangler Stout might be nice.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Talk is cheap lets get on with it!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I might try some catnip in the CSF jalapeno ale!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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A new little 5.9 about 60' pretty fun hard to get a good shot.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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don't ferget yer bike
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Second or third weekend in May? What do you mean? the second and third weekend in may
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I mean both weekends do get yer drink on!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Sushi is for pussies! We need a pigfest
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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