Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 461 - 480 of total 2059 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Ron, Didn't he imp-lie that they did the f.a. with only one bolt when they were done? It's funny anyhow just another BITD prodding.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
I do believe that was mis-interpreted.. I seriously doubt Rick has placed a bolt in well over a decade. In fact, the last time we went to Dino, he led deadmans rap with nuts,, by -passing the bolts..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
Instead of complaining about this sh#t how about some ex. route maint. like that first crux route is cool but the walk off with a foot of snow is lame. seems like these forty foot routes without bolted anchors might actually get done with fixed anchors. most of those routes are sportcracks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
I can only go back to the old saying,, if the route ISNT yours,, DONT alter it.. Its how ive climbed all my time.. If the FA party decided a slung glob of granite was good enough, then i followed suit. Respect to ground already tread. When doing NEW routes, one can install bolt anchors for convenience,, but that is what it is,, convenience..Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
More like it's 30' and they're never goin back so why waste the time and money.

Were not talking about classics here. I pulled the conveniance slings from the tree on nev/utah and replaced them with painted two bolt anchor is that bad? I'm 99% sure if Dan were around and I asked him he would not have an issue with it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
hmmmm,,, well that is one way to think of it..Not really the correct way though.. We climbed CLEAN BITD.. Bolts werent even a consideration. And we got off all those routes without them.. The mantra back then was: ALWAYS bring a long sling..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
always loved the way twenty multi colored slings looked wrapped around some tree. O.k. I put the anchors near nev/utah for a new ten foot arete route. anyone doesn't like them they can rap of the hammered slings that were up there.

EDIT: what about the bolted anchors on hillside strangler and stranglehold? did you use those? you can easilly walk off led zepparete and you don't even need the belay bolt at yer waist
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
Heh. I do believe somebody took my nice bd double length and replaced it with thier hammered out sling on NV/UT! Or else it got hammered out, lol. I was with the wife and she didn't want to futz around with walk offs when I climbed that rig. Probably that's how convenience anchors started. Yes, honey, I'm coming down now!

Those anchors on Hillside are nice for convenience.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Saving a tree is a good thing for everybody.

Rap bolts anywhere are good for me - I don't like walking ;)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
LZA was set up as a sport route,, fully expecting it to be "worked"..Much the same as Lightning dream was. Originally Hillside had no anchors.. Let us not mix the two styles here. In all my routes there i only installed two bolted anchors, the LZA, and cracker cliff. Both atop sport lines. The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Jebus, I have your sling and biner. you can have it back or maybe I'll put it back so ron and rick can rap off it!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant.
Exactly,So in other words it would have cost a fortune.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
Ah, man, keep it Kenny. As long as you strangle some other hapless tree with it, I am cool with that. I have some tied webbing I used to get off Jammin' for Jehovah across the canyon too. I went too high and missed the anchors on Smearing for Jesus people apparently used. Another strangled tree :(.

Hehehehe... I love ethics. And convenience anchors!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
After the approach to the Fortress one could truly appreciate some conveniance.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Uhhh Kenny,, if memory serves my drug addled brain, didnt i congratulate you for installing those anchors ontop of NV/UT? I thought that particular route could actually use some. It was a bit of a cluster f*ck otherwise. But many more are easily set up without any altering. I rapped suicide falls routes w/o any permanent anchors too..
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
We climbed CLEAN BITD..
not always;)
Stolen from Ron Anderson
Stolen from Ron Anderson
Credit: kennyt

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Just effin around Ron no offense
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Indeed,, that was VERY DIRTY! Yet, it was also pure spurt routes..;^)

But then you have to admit,, Indian head was ALL ABOUT convenience.. Where else could you belay from the truck whilst listening to the tunage.



edit: no offense taken Kenny.. Sometimes the emperor has no clothes lol!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 23, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
O.K. I checked my climbing log. Burnrockburn,Sasha Cohen and I climbed two route on April Fool's Wall, April 1,2008. So the route is nearly 5 years old. Woodfords is a big place so I can see the misunderstanding... considering the source I can see the confusion...just sayin'. Dan
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
Thanks for the backup chim. We also did the 5.8r route to the right of bandit buttress (FA) the same day F.O.L.L.O.F. Fear of love love of fear
Aka my divorce route
Shawn

I didn't know one pic would cause so much talk about climbing. Maybe ill post more photos!!
Credit: BurnRockBurn

Enjoying one of my rare days off with my future bride
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