Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 441 - 460 of total 1384 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 11:03am PT
There's only a dusting in the valley this morning, not even a quarter inch. It's curious as presently there are only blue skies everywhere! Dusting of snow will be gone within the hour. I'll be climbing this afternoon, woohoo! :)
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 23, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Sorry Ron, I had to fix something.

Also, check the Carson Valley thread.

the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:13am PT
a buddy and myself would go to the west wall route and do laps cuz it is such a fun route, we did however dub it "focus fest" bcuz of the friction friction friction! mostly because we didnt know any name for it. still a fun climb, we've been goin a bit over the roofy part at the tree(bush) for a directish finish to the anchor, that part is still cleaning up and a bit harder than the bottom. have fun! p.s. would love to rip them bolts out and put new guys in, i aint falling on those things! i see its an unknown f a, mostly to try n lead it and asking outta respect. dave.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Hey Dan, I've heard from 5.10a to 5.10d on OULD, so the opinions flow fast and free at the Fords! Half the fun of climbing there is comparing how hard people think the routes are. There's many a climb there I hear about up to 3 letter grades of discrepancy between different climbers. I wonder if your guide will firm up some of the consensus.

I think 5.10c is fair for OULD, that's around my usual onsight level and it felt right about there when I did so. If you're dialed for techie granite stuff it will feel easier, I think that's why I've heard down to 5.10a on it.

Maybe there should be the three grade system at Woodfords: 1. Can get it clean, 2. Can get up it somehow, 3. Can't get up it at all. It would simplify my conversations with friends about the Fords!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 11:57am PT
I think 5.10c is fair... that's around my usual onsight level...

Woohoo! I think I just might've found my ropegun for Conness Southwest Face this season. ;)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Well, "usual" when I'm not recovering from an injury, Footloose. I'm afraid my dance card is filled on that particular climb so far though. If I do it twice in one season though or my partner bails, I will let you know!

I think I need to recover to leading first though, or I won't be rope gunning anything soon.

edit: Oh yeah, I'm digging the trail running thing, I know that is your gig too. I'm finally finding the "gears" when I run so that I can keep the legs going on the uphills. It's a blast! I don't know why people pound the cement when you have beautiful trails out there. I just got back from one this morning ;).
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
yeah im in chim. been lazy too long.!
that one kid on that one .9.
that one kid on that one .9.
Credit: the czar
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 25, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
Nice shot, Czar! Are you the kid in the pic?
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
no sir.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:38am PT
na, thats Roan.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 26, 2013 - 08:46am PT
Cool, thanks Dan. That photo makes me miss the Woodfords.

I'm hanging out in Durango right now, waiting for a job in Maui to mobilize.

How are things back home? Any new routes recently? I'm anxious to get back and start scrubbing!

Ryan
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Feb 26, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Anyone want to climb at Woodfords tomorrow? (Wednesday)
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Dan - that sounds good. Just let me know where to send it.

-L
Blizzard

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 27, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Hey Dave that is a cool photo of rohan i think i was belaying him that day. Thanks for showing us around it was a really fun going out there with you, dan, rohan, and oggie the doggie. we should do that again sometime.

-Bruce McIntosh
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 28, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
right on bruce, we'll be up there tmrrw
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 28, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
I also wondered how much you can really say in 65 words. A very skilled writer could convey the spirit of a man, sure. Of course, you are getting into the realm of poetry. It would only be a few haikus. It would be a great challenge to encapsulate the presence of a man in an area whose moods are just as wild and diverse.


^^^ 65 words. Not much to work with. Those Indian Creek inserts in the Bloom guide certainly get a lot more play, but, hey, I'd lean in favor of just getting the guide ;).
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 1, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
I replaced the bolts on the west wall route on the apron today.
west wall route before and after
west wall route before and after
Credit: kennyt
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 1, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Ron, those things seemed pretty bomber still at least in shear, it took a little effort with a three foot prybar. and I did use the same holes. Maybe I'll zip over to led zep and fix that up this weekend but it's perty cold over there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Kenny, nice. That looks like 3". SS.

I've been thinking it's better to use ss locking washer in lieu of ss flat washer. Any thoughts there? I wish the hanger package came with ss locking washer.

Do you know if using 2 and a quarter wedge bolts for anchors in our granite are now substandard? or not?

On the other hand, maybe it would be no big deal to use cs locking washer together with the ss hanger and bolt.

I wonder if Chim uses 2 and a quarter or 3" for his anchor placements. Maybe he'll pipe in here.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 1, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
Bill, just use the flat washer and pick up some nyloc nuts if your worried about it, or blue loctite.

Anybody been here?
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
Credit: kennyt
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