Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 441 - 460 of total 2059 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:07am PT
A #6 on Walking Jack? I think I led it safely with a 3.5" friend as the big piece? I love that crack, it's some good trad bouldering. I'm pretty sure it's not 5.10a though, Weston, you have a fascinating grade-o-meter ;).
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 22, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Yur just experiencing the grading of one Mr Jay Smith..Those sum wall routes,, all Jay..;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 11:42am PT
On the Perfect Lieback, it's always an issue for me: Where to put that first piece! Among other things, running it out can mean you REALLY REALLY trust your belayer. :)

That five foot section on Walking Jack has always humbled me. Maybe this season will be different, haha.


(If any of you guys rolling through the Carson Valley try out Sunny Delight at CV Sentinel, please let me know on the grade and rating, I'm looking for a consensus. So far it's 5.10 (not 5.9 afterall) and more than comparable in star quality to Dinosaur Rock's Color Me Gone. Sorry, Ron, lol. )
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
wml, yes, that flaring and frustrating (for me) crack section.

(Though I'd like to add I have a partner who not only floats it, but pauses in the middle of it after placing pro to beta me. Basterd, lol!)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 22, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Nice to see the Fords getting its winter gathering going on. Damn I need a break from work to get back out there......
April Fools Wall <br/>
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor plac...
April Fools Wall
Chim pulling up the bag o drill for the anchor placement
Credit: BurnRockBurn
I miss my second "Home"
Shawn
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:14pm PT

In no way do I think Walking Jack is actually 10a, fair 10c/+ish. I'm just saying that Sun Wall Left, comparatively, is extremely stiff for the grade.

I'd agree on SWL. I consider it 5.11a, although it's been more than a year since I got on it.

Woodfords is a Tahoe crag that doesn't seem to have the consensus other Tahoe crags do. Maybe that reflects true old school Tahoe area grades, not the creeping influence of road trippers and day trippers from the near west. To continue the dull rubric of comparison (at least on my ruler): If Cat Scratch Fever is 5.10a, I Be Jammin is easy 5.8+/9. If SWL is 5.10c, then Walking Jack is probably 5.10b, etc., etc....

For consistency, I mostly compare against the standard I see at other Tahoe crags to arrive at my personal grade, not using some sand bagged things at Woodfords to serve as my ruler against the climbs there. I mean, hell, you can go to Snowshed and rate everything by Karl's Gym if you want, but then Peter Principle is going to be 5.10c ;).

For true sand bagging at the Fords, go do a 5.9/10a called the Utah/NV border that is by the Hillside Strangler. It's the sneaky man's way of saying 5.9+! A Danno route I doubt many 5.10+ trad leaders will onsight. I wouldn't call it a great route, but it will certainly bitch slap the f*#k out of your ego if you hold to the grade.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 22, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
What difference does it make? It's a 5.12 approach to any of the routes

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.807610542357594&lon=-119.783935546875&site=rev&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en


New and improved plus bolted anchor minus  bush
New and improved plus bolted anchor minus bush
Credit: kennyt
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jan 22, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
mr. burnrockburn, that april fools wall route you be doing looks an awful lot like a route Greg Dexter and i did 2 years ago. Wasn't no bolt, except near the top if i remember correctly, after we were done-just sayin....
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:24am PT
You mean Karl's gym and Nova aren't the golden standard for grading at Snowshed???! :-)


I got cleanly up Nova as a gym gumby crack n00b. 8+, tops ;).

Karl's Gym may just be a stylistic thing for me, some people find it easier than I do, but it sure seems harder than the 11- cracks I've done in the Donner area. Lead, TR, whatever, that crack dislikes me.

I guess it comes down to crag versus area ratings. In fact, I find grades remarkably consistent at most all the CA trad crags. From Joshua Tree to Tahquitz, Needles to Tuolumne, High Sierra to the Tahoe area, I'm never really thinking the grades are systematically off kilter (maybe Open Book was 5.10b though, hahaha).

There is a standard at Woodfords established by Smith and crew on certain routes, however, so it's a choice of honoring it or whitewashing it. I have my opinion of what the routes should be rated, of course, but if you honor the original while knowing it's going to be a testpiece there is really no harm except, perhaps, to the ego. I just don't think that standard necessarily applies to grading other routes, it's more of an asterisk deal.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:49am PT
Hmmm... Ok,,it wasnt that other routs were actually compared with any others for the rating. It was the TIMES.. Those times when the letter suffix thing was still in its infancy really. We didnt know for sure what the diff between a 10A (which back then was considered harder than just 10),, or a 10 B.. Reluctance of adding a letter was high.. If you think rating a climb today can be a little confusing,, try being the ones using the letter grades for the first time.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Heh Rick, I think your mistaken to have claimed that you and Dexter climbed April Fools before Shawn and I. That picture he posted is at least four years old. When we climbed it on April Fools day four or five years ago there were no bolts, just sayin. Dan
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
Dan, Sound's like yer route got retro bolt by an anti bolter.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
bolt war! Whoo!
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
April fools wall was done April 1 2008. Only bolts on it should be the anchor. Just saying as well
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Shawn, I'm sure his memory is not what it used to be.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Just like BITD! no need to chop just mash the hangers flat with a hammer to really get your point across;)


I've always liked the sight of mangled bolts and hammered down hangers! While you're at it you should take a loose crap and wipe your ass while slowly rapping down the rock. That'll show 'em! When the brown dookie smear transitions to the blood of your raw ass on the rock, they'll know you are seriously butt hurt!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
If you had to place a bolt on a route that already had anchors on it WTF. It's fairly obvious the route has been done before. We did it on gear only. Thus no bolt. I'm not going to waste my time pulling it cause I would rather climb.
Just saying again
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
A) I dont believe it was Rick or Greg that placed the bolt.


B) The man has done it all..

C) He also did the actual FA of "the perfect lie-back"..

D) He climbs with integrity towards the rock. This i know.

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jan 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
I could never understand how smashed hangers were somehow better than rap installed bolts.
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