Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1381 - 1400 of total 2086 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Nice shots of Power surge! Fa M Bauer/ Rasmussen 1988. ! 11C
Have to say i never saw that rest executed!
High Energy Wall.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Fast response!

I think its 11c for the first pitch 12c for the second according to Chim-Chim's guide and my friend's experience.

Do you know where Goldenshowers is located?

Any other suggestins for good 12's to get on?

 Luke
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
Yes my bad,, your correct! and No,, i dont know much of the newer stuff there. Cracks that hard will be rare other than what Chim and Mark have done. There IS Storm trooper of death - down just above crystal springs on storm trooper buttress 12 B-ish..theres pics back a ways in this here thread..;-)
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34am PT
Heh, there are many routes in the grade range that you would like know about. Golden shower is located upstream from King Diamond Wall, drop into the drainage above the sandy approach to OOTD follow the left side of the creek past a recent rock fall, just before the bend left start at a slab-crack system, 5.7 decent pro, that lies below an obvious west-facing crack (not easily seen from below) overhanging hands and wider lead to a crux and anchor. Sash
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Wow,
those are awesome shots, Luke!
Thanks for posting those!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:43am PT
NIce shot of High Energy Wall, were you out on Sunday? Went out to do some recon and saw some folks, glad you had some fun.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:01am PT
whats recon?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:13am PT
Recon?? Reconnoiter,, to examine,, to PROBE, investigate or "check out"...To go "upder" and see whats there ,,looking for route possibility..To "recon" fromm reconnaissance- or to gather intel.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:35am PT
photoshop?
photoshop?
Credit: sasha Cohen
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:05am PT
Oh jesus! Thank god it's harder than the Anderson guide suggests. I was thinking the whole time I'm really out of shape.

We were out there a few weeks ago and I got on Power Surge. I lead the first pitch and thought it was solid for .11c. Awkward but strait forward. The second pitch my partner started and gave up quickly on the overhanging fingers crack. I took over and thought the steep section was solid of .11c, the traverse was easy .10 or .9 but that upper flairing crack was a total sumbitch above. I struggled and fought, cussed and ran out of gear, you name it. With lichen filled eyes I squeaked out the onsight but it was definately one of the hardest won battles I've done in a while. Besides Basket Case, that was worse.

I wouldn't call it .12c though. .12a/b tops ;)
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Cool!

My friends went and cleaned up the top of Powersurge so that should help. No Lichen in the face.

Nice work with the OS. Chad I think you are stronger than you know :-D

How about a TR from Basket Case. I have been waiting for Alexy to write it up.

Sasha, no photo shop, Ben just really digs the bat hangs. I'm sure there are tons of routes up there. I really need to make a trip!

If you want to see more photos check out my friend Adam's blog:

http://climbinghouse.com/2013/08/bathanging-at-woodfords.html

He shot the photos from above.

 Luke
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
I thought Woodfords was slabby?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
ahem~~~i can take NO credit for the SANDBAG rating of "power surge" in my old guide.. ROFLMAO!

That IS my story, of which i shall stick tu like glu..
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Agreed about the impressive onsight Salamanizer. After we cleaned up the upper headwall, it looked more promising, but even 2nd attempt I still got whooped. Definitely one of the most fun routes I've done, and with more traffic to get rid of the remaining grit it'll be a classic. Thanks to whoever put the nice shiny chains at the top.

Sasha or Chim Chim, do you happen to know the names/grades of the routes around left of golden showers? When we were out there this weekend we thought we'd stumbled upon FA gold until we noticed the chains at the top... GS looks amazing and steep!!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Yeah, amazing pics! I gotta get up to that wall. Unlike Sal, I will give those routes the proper hang dogging they deserve.
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Alltalk, the climbs immediately to the left of Golden Shower are D-Cup and Offwidth you Panties 5.10c and 5.9. The slab way left past the rock scar area with the long shiny chains on top is a tr for now... and checks in at 5.12- it's named Cloudwalker. Burnrockburn plans on bolting it up for the lead. CMac and I first checked out the 100+ foot wall about seven years ago.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
That name alone could change the way I feel about offwidths.
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker? It looks like some potential lines up there, but I'm not sure how you'd get up there. Maybe adventure pitch up the stuff to the left of the rock scar?

Or am I thinking cloud walker is a different route? I saw something with shiny chains up hill (east of the rock scar) in a narrow gully opposite a really clean looking corner crack and a sport bolted face. These two climbs were especially on the backside of the OOTDs feature.

Either way, if you have names grades for any of those routes it'd be much appreciated. I love to explore up there and knowing what's been done is always helpful.

Casey
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Casey, I've done two climbs up there... brutally filthy. Up and left of Cloudwalker is the Ent 5.10d if you look closely chains can be seen below a small pine tree. The start is atop a giant boulder that is approach by climbing The Green Tongue(the climb on the other side of the gully from the corner climb and bolted short face climb) then heading up and left up a swath of trees to the left of the aformentioned large boulder. Scott Thelen a buddy of Kennyt placed a couple of anchors on tha wall directly above Cloudwalker, but I don't know anything about his activities first hand. Check it out and let me know! Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Theres a LOT more to the canyon than those 2 areas lol! Spread yur wingzzzz!;-)
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