Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1381 - 1400 of total 2059 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jul 20, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Thanks- I think I met Woodsfords local at Bear- he was doing a class for MAS, but I forgot his name. I would guess he would know most of you. I think he lives in Minden and has worked for MAS for the 8 years. But he looked like a kid to me.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 20, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
Heh Ryan, are you going to the stuff in the Yosemite backcountry this year? Talk about under the radar worthy! We're going to the basalt Sun and monday are you in town. Tropster come on out. I'd give you the directions but I'd feel better if Ryan sends you the info. Once it's "tapped" it may make it on the map.:) Dan
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 22, 2013 - 01:35am PT
Yeah Dan, I dream about the Yos backcountry! I'd love to hit up the Basalt, too. That photo of you on Shoulder Country got me all fired up. I'll be in town from August 5th - 11th. Maybe we could get a day or two in then.

In the mean time keep putting up routes! I'm psyched to get up there and try 'em.

Ryan

Tell Dave he should post up those pics again, will ya? It keeps me going when I'm stuck in places like El Centro, CA in July.
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
Jul 22, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Hey, Dan, I was one member of the "nice S.F. couple" back on the 14th. Great to meet you, and thanks for the great beta and awesome routes!

cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
A few of my buddies were out at Woodfords this weekend and snapped a few photos. Pretty sick looking rock! Motivates me to make a visit!

Name this route!






Photos by Adam Sheer.

Anyone know who did the FA of the above route? Has it seen many ascents? My friends raved about it.

Could someone write me up a list of the best woodfords cracks in the 11c->13a range?

I saw a few up thread: Goldenshower, Center Route.

Thanks!
 Luke
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
Nice shots of Power surge! Fa M Bauer/ Rasmussen 1988. ! 11C
Have to say i never saw that rest executed!
High Energy Wall.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Fast response!

I think its 11c for the first pitch 12c for the second according to Chim-Chim's guide and my friend's experience.

Do you know where Goldenshowers is located?

Any other suggestins for good 12's to get on?

 Luke
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
Yes my bad,, your correct! and No,, i dont know much of the newer stuff there. Cracks that hard will be rare other than what Chim and Mark have done. There IS Storm trooper of death - down just above crystal springs on storm trooper buttress 12 B-ish..theres pics back a ways in this here thread..;-)
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34am PT
Heh, there are many routes in the grade range that you would like know about. Golden shower is located upstream from King Diamond Wall, drop into the drainage above the sandy approach to OOTD follow the left side of the creek past a recent rock fall, just before the bend left start at a slab-crack system, 5.7 decent pro, that lies below an obvious west-facing crack (not easily seen from below) overhanging hands and wider lead to a crux and anchor. Sash
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Wow,
those are awesome shots, Luke!
Thanks for posting those!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:43am PT
NIce shot of High Energy Wall, were you out on Sunday? Went out to do some recon and saw some folks, glad you had some fun.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:01am PT
whats recon?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:13am PT
Recon?? Reconnoiter,, to examine,, to PROBE, investigate or "check out"...To go "upder" and see whats there ,,looking for route possibility..To "recon" fromm reconnaissance- or to gather intel.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:35am PT
photoshop?
photoshop?
Credit: sasha Cohen
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:05am PT
Oh jesus! Thank god it's harder than the Anderson guide suggests. I was thinking the whole time I'm really out of shape.

We were out there a few weeks ago and I got on Power Surge. I lead the first pitch and thought it was solid for .11c. Awkward but strait forward. The second pitch my partner started and gave up quickly on the overhanging fingers crack. I took over and thought the steep section was solid of .11c, the traverse was easy .10 or .9 but that upper flairing crack was a total sumbitch above. I struggled and fought, cussed and ran out of gear, you name it. With lichen filled eyes I squeaked out the onsight but it was definately one of the hardest won battles I've done in a while. Besides Basket Case, that was worse.

I wouldn't call it .12c though. .12a/b tops ;)
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Cool!

My friends went and cleaned up the top of Powersurge so that should help. No Lichen in the face.

Nice work with the OS. Chad I think you are stronger than you know :-D

How about a TR from Basket Case. I have been waiting for Alexy to write it up.

Sasha, no photo shop, Ben just really digs the bat hangs. I'm sure there are tons of routes up there. I really need to make a trip!

If you want to see more photos check out my friend Adam's blog:

http://climbinghouse.com/2013/08/bathanging-at-woodfords.html

He shot the photos from above.

 Luke
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
I thought Woodfords was slabby?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
ahem~~~i can take NO credit for the SANDBAG rating of "power surge" in my old guide.. ROFLMAO!

That IS my story, of which i shall stick tu like glu..
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
Agreed about the impressive onsight Salamanizer. After we cleaned up the upper headwall, it looked more promising, but even 2nd attempt I still got whooped. Definitely one of the most fun routes I've done, and with more traffic to get rid of the remaining grit it'll be a classic. Thanks to whoever put the nice shiny chains at the top.

Sasha or Chim Chim, do you happen to know the names/grades of the routes around left of golden showers? When we were out there this weekend we thought we'd stumbled upon FA gold until we noticed the chains at the top... GS looks amazing and steep!!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Aug 15, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Yeah, amazing pics! I gotta get up to that wall. Unlike Sal, I will give those routes the proper hang dogging they deserve.
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