Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1321 - 1340 of total 1385 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 5, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
Went up to the Fortress today with Kdog to climb Topographic Ocean. What an adventure that rig is. Sustained hands and fingers mixed with some loose and dirty rock, wild exposure and a bit of runout, keep you on your toes for the entire 500ft. Dank rates this a 10+. We found stout 10+ fingery locks and stems on pitches 2 and 3 with a spicy runout and tenuous 11 crank guarding the top of the fourth pitch. We added quick links to the pitch 3 anchors so you should be able to rap with a 70m from there. Adding another set of anchors atop pitch 4 would allow the route to be rapped and avoid traversing to Hand of God. All in all, stellar route!
Kenny stemming it out on the smooth corner of P2
Kenny stemming it out on the smooth corner of P2
Credit: Laine
Kenny hugs the arête high up on the route
Kenny hugs the arte high up on the route
Credit: Laine
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Oct 5, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
Very cool, Laine!

I was on OOTD with Mark yesterday. He led it, obviously. But I got it clean on TR. That's big to me. My goal is to lead it next year.

Moose
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 5, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
Well done, Moose. That thing stays on you the whole way.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Oct 6, 2014 - 12:06am PT
South side of canyon holds some gems.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 6, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Dan, I got to the thin crack/flake on p3 and didn't like the looks of it, so I traversed right to another finger crack in a corner directly on the arte. I had a feeling this was not the typical way because I had to clean loose rock as I went. This led directly to the p3 anchors of Yellow Fin. From there we traversed left into the double cracks (stellar!).

When those petered out we did some face moves right directly below the triangular roof. From there we extended a piece up high then pulled some slabby runout moves left back onto the east face (spicy!). This led to a bulging, dirty crack/seam/corner with a fixed nut. The final moves felt about 11ish. The fifth pitch was an easy corner that put us into a gully and finally the 3 bolts atop p4 of Y.F.

I guess we did a variation (Riding Yellow Fin in the Topographic Ocean)?

edit: we also did the Yellow Tail start in the bushy alcove left of the Topo Ocean's first pitch. So I guess we did the "Riding on the Fins of the Yellow Tail in the Topographic Ocean" variation. So many options!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 6, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
F*#king birds - no respect. I'll take them over bats tho.

Nice weather out there now. Looking forward to more multipitch sending. Any idea on the east face finish Kdog and I climbed? It was wicked dirty but had a nut at the bulge.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 7, 2014 - 09:37am PT
Copy that. We will need to go back and climb it going up the slab to the double cracks and thru the triangular roof.

Really nice route overall. With another anchor station the route could be rapped with a 70 I think.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Oct 10, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
Anybody climbing tomorrow?

Moose
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Oct 10, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
Losers!

Going to True Value (Kenny's crag) in the morning.

Moose
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Oct 12, 2014 - 08:09am PT
Sorry Moose. Hopefully you can find someone to play nice with you.

Im outa climbing for a while.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Oct 12, 2014 - 09:09am PT
You are not climbing? I hope everything is OK, Shawn.

Climbed with Roger yesterday. We were weak and old. lol

Still having fun, though.

Andrzej
Hickicick

climber
NV
Oct 12, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
Anybody have some topos of high energy that they'd be so kind as to share? Its a super cool area and it'd be nice to know about newer routes that aren't in the Anderson guide.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 13, 2014 - 11:08am PT
Bump for High Energy! That place is the Eagle Lake cliff of Woodfords.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Oct 13, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
And Eagle Lake is the Cookie Cliff of Tahoe?

And Cookie Cliff is like the Cliffs of Insanity of Yosemite?

I juuuuuusssst missed going to High Energy, but I've heard great things. Erstwhile partner Tyson ended up bailing (and then unbailing, but by then failing) just before I moved. I'm probably as close to the Cookie as High Energy now and much more likely to head that direction, if you know'm sayin' ;).

Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 13, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
High Energy is like Eagle Lake cliff with 5 spacewalks minus the foreign day hikers.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Oct 14, 2014 - 05:47am PT
So I'll get spanked five times?

Where's the lake, man? Dude, I'm talking to you. My girlfriend and I came up here to swim in a lake.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 14, 2014 - 07:13am PT
You and yo woman gonna have to make do splashing around in the river.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 30, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
I've installed anchors on pitch 4 of topo oceans and it can now be rapped with a single 70m. I checked out your original variation, Dan. Bold and spicy is all I have to say. Tough moves on thin to nonexistent gear. Not sure I would want to repeat the route that way. Maybe someday...

Heading down Sunday weather dependent.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 3, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
Five rigs out at the Fortress yesterday. Wicked cold and a bit windy but overall not awful. No snow on the south-facing side though there was a light dusting up high on the north-facing side

Four of us dashed up Topo Ocean. Tim and Tyson finished via the sick finger crack on Yellow Fin and Patrick and I did the 4th pitch variation of T.O. Saw another party over at the Books.

Weather's looking good for the rest of the week, so it's gonna be primetime at the fords. Get after it!
T?S

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 16, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
Who picked off this gem? Thought it was possibly an FA, until we looked up about 15 ft beyond the corner and saw some old rappel tat.

Thought it was probably a touch harder than Perfect lieback, but similar quality and length. The line is about 150 yards West of the Books area of the Fortress, and a little higher up the hill.

hands to tight fingers
hands to tight fingers
Credit: T?S
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