Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1321 - 1340 of total 2082 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Blizzard

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jun 12, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
hey ron,

I'm interested in climbing Jobs Sister and would like to climb your route. How is the rock quality on the N face of Jobs Sister? How would you describe the nature of the route(so if i went there i could maybe find it)? I bet it's been a while since you climbed it but any info would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bruce
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jun 12, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Bruce,,,I would call the actual N face somewhat Mt Morrison like in nature. I did it in FEB during the onset of the biggest storm of the year lmao!

I think its far better to do it in the winter as more loose crap is glued down by the snow and ice. There is nice granite formations that are satellites of the peak and ridge but the main face- which forms the western half of the north face is a loose dangerous pile. Our route went up betwixt the obvious pile pillars. A main chute above steeper rock sections to start. Protection was difficult and non existent at the top sections - class 4 on broken frozen rubble to the summit somewhat exposed. It was a dont screw up here section. The approach was straight up from star lake which in feb is frozen over.

Summer time would be good to explore those pillars and such on the eastern side of the cirque - that faces west overlooking star lake, which is loaded with brookies..
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Anybody hitting Cloud Burst tomorrow, thursday?

I'm thinking about it.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jun 14, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Hey Dan if you are working at the gear shop tomorrow morning, I'll be in south lake and can swing by and grab that mug. We are backpacking in desolation this weekend. I'm gonna look for some nice problems up around Dicks lake
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 15, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Laine, I got yer mug. Kenny are you and Mr. Big heading up in the am?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Jun 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
Dan, took the fam. camping this weekend
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jun 17, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Laine,
Where did you go backpacking? I hiked from Wrights Lake to Emerald Bay over Rockbound Pass and past Lake Schmidell on Saturday (18 miles total).
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jun 18, 2013 - 03:09pm PT

Hey Friedo - that sounds really fun, I've never been to Wright's Lake. We went out to Dick's Lake. Though it was too windy to swim we found several fun boulder problems along the way.
Dick's Lake
Dick's Lake
Credit: Laine
Dick's Grundle VB &#40;left&#41; and Dick's Crack V1 &#40;right&#41;
Dick's Grundle VB (left) and Dick's Crack V1 (right)
Credit: Laine
Mary starting Dick's Crack from within the schrund.
Mary starting Dick's Crack from within the schrund.
Credit: Laine
A grainy send
A grainy send
Credit: Laine
Mary sending a VB &#40;fedora optional&#41;
Mary sending a VB (fedora optional)
Credit: Laine
A good project for "real" boulderers &#40;aka not us&#41;
A good project for "real" boulderers (aka not us)
Credit: Laine
A short, crimpy V3 and V4
A short, crimpy V3 and V4
Credit: Laine
This high ball roof mantle need some scrubbing &#40;V2 if standing on ...
This high ball roof mantle need some scrubbing (V2 if standing on the flat rock, VHard if not)
Credit: Laine
A short roof crack to mantle
A short roof crack to mantle
Credit: Laine
A long hand traverse
A long hand traverse
Credit: Laine
The angle is bad but this is highball crack &#40;you'd want a crash pa...
The angle is bad but this is highball crack (you'd want a crash pad for it). The right face looks good too.
Credit: Laine
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 18, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Sash and I camped out for two nights... had the whole place to ourselves. Going out on Sunday. Kenny I have an wall to show you... right up your alley. Mixed lines galor.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jun 18, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
Too much rock out there to comprehend. The stuff way above the south side of Eagle lake looks really. As does the stuff to the north. Anyone know of any activity done up there?
Uber solid rock way above Eagle Lake.
Uber solid rock way above Eagle Lake.
Credit: Laine
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jun 18, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Laine,
Looks awesome! I've camped at Dicks Lake a couple of times. Some good rock out there. You should check out the wrights Lake area sometime. Great climbing in the South Tahoe guidebook. Amazing hiking and swimming galore!!!

On the way to Rockbound Pass
On the way to Rockbound Pass
Credit: Friedo

Desolation Highway
Desolation Highway
Credit: Friedo

Some good Craggin possibilities at Lake Schmidell...
Some good Craggin possibilities at Lake Schmidell...
Credit: Friedo

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 18, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Had a good time at the Fords yesterday.

Did Regular Route up The Steeple and then did the lead on that roof crack called Mad Hatter and billed as 5.11b in the mountainproject description (description under the 5.10d climb, if you are looking). Not 5.11b in my book, much harder! It makes Hillside Strangler look like a kiddie climb in comparison. I got 'er to the chains, but DAMN!

The Reg Route was probably a little overbilled. The second pitch is three star climbing though.

On the way down hit The Mohel (pretty damn good!) at Woodcutters and then ran a few laps on TR on the Hillside Strangler.

With that hike uphill thrown in, it was a pretty damn good training day and it was cool being way up there in those gullies. Pretty neat terrain.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jun 18, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
Jebus,
Is The Mohel that 10d roof to finger crack on the east facing wall of Woodcutters? That thing is AWESOME!!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 18, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
Yeah, the same climb. The best climb I've done on that wall for sure. Mostly because I had to bail three bolts up on Dog Down Arete!
Chim-Chim

climber
Jun 19, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Bomz, a hold at the end of the roof broke, it made turhing the lip easier... so maybe it's 11c/d now. Did you leave my wire at the start? Took me five minutes to place it on the fa, got to the roof pumped but squeaked by clean to the top. Thought it was going to be a 5.12 but it wasn't. The Mohl sp? took me two tries to get clean,,, go figure!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 19, 2013 - 11:21am PT
Yes, the wire is still there. I backed it up with an rp since I didn't place it and the rp popped when I hung under the roof! An easy clean for my follower. I still disagree on the grade as compared with Hillside Strangler, but I didn't put it up and don't lead much at the 11+ grade on gear. I've gotten 5.12- moves at Donner easier than that though! A stout grade isn't a bad thing, so I will cease my bitching ;).

Yes, the Mohel will take two tries for me too! I was feeling cruiser and my feet just popped suddenly. I think the lichen on it adds up? But that sounds like a bad excuse.... :). Got it clean on TR, but that hardly counts.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jun 19, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
I really enjoy The Left Seam on Woodcutters as well. I'd take a couple hundred feet of that any day!!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jun 19, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
That would be quite the Louie, Friedo!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
Hey Woodford fans,

Short notice but anybody interested in exploring these beauties tomorrow, fri...
Credit: Footloose

Credit: Footloose

They are way above Cloudburst Canyon, 1000 feet or so. I know the way that's a pretty mellow approach. Good cv workout though, too.

I'd like to throw down a toprope on a couple of these towers to see how this very hard conglomerate climbs. That's the interest.

Want to come along? Early morning start, I imagine.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jun 20, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
Foot- just make sure everything you do is ground up, barefoot and blindfolded
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