Woodfords Canyon

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knucko

climber
Jun 24, 2014 - 05:24pm PT

Took this picture in December on an early morning approach.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jun 27, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
Looks like Tyson will be replacing the crappy topos I've been doing in MS Word with actual professional grade layouts. I believe there is already a better Tiers topo in existence.

Just thinking out loud here and I might be completely off base but Chim, Tyson could be your go-to guy for graphic design of the guidebook.

Hickicick

climber
NV
Jun 27, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
Anybody wanna get out this sunday? I'm interested in the stuff up behind OOTD wall if anybody wants to check it out too.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jun 28, 2014 - 09:21am PT
Wish I could but I already committed to climbing in Tahoe that day (squaw area). If you do the line up and left of the green tongue, bring 2 stainless quick links for the anchor. I gladly pay you back for the hardware. Also if you're interested in Tahoe climbing hit me up.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jun 28, 2014 - 10:11am PT
Any established routes here?

Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
How was the action at Woodfords today?
Who's climbing tomorrow, Monday, anyone?
T?S

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jul 8, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
Who picked this cherry and what does she go at??? Looks pretty classic: hands, fists, and fingers which overhangs 6-8 ft over 40-50ft?!?

There were plenty of cobwebs on the crack, so I don't think she sees many ascents, but it's a very aesthetic line in a very cool position indeed.

I was just hiking solo so didn't get to give it a go, but my eyeball assessment says 5.11+ or in the neighborhood?






T?S

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jul 8, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
Heck ya! Thanks Dan. Definitely at the top of my Woodfords tick list now. Betcha the crux is at the top, those fingers look like they will be pretty brutal...

Can't wait.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jul 11, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
Yo Dan- what's the skinny on the routes at obscenity wall? What do the grades range from?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
Haha, Laine you have to push the envelope and branch out more. The high sierra calls!!!!

I think the Doodad has our name on it, lol! Maybe Dragway, too, I still haven't done it!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Jul 11, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
I know right. Tried to bag Dragtooth with a good friend a few weeks ago and woke up to a full on winter storm at the bivy spot below Matterhorn. So it was a bust. I did put up a new sport route (ground up) on some limestone in nor cal last week so I got that going for me :).

Let's talk soon, gotta get Dragtooth done!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 25, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
The fords' page has been mighty quiet these days. Hope people are getting it done out there. Another wall in the cloudburst canyon is up on Mtn Proj. People new to the area should check it out. You can chase the shady all day long out there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
Laine, I wish you could get tomorrow off, as I have an off day
and a hankering to climb at the Leap! Still love Woodfords though, ha!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 5, 2014 - 10:16pm PT
Went up to the Fortress today with Kdog to climb Topographic Ocean. What an adventure that rig is. Sustained hands and fingers mixed with some loose and dirty rock, wild exposure and a bit of runout, keep you on your toes for the entire 500ft. Dank rates this a 10+. We found stout 10+ fingery locks and stems on pitches 2 and 3 with a spicy runout and tenuous 11 crank guarding the top of the fourth pitch. We added quick links to the pitch 3 anchors so you should be able to rap with a 70m from there. Adding another set of anchors atop pitch 4 would allow the route to be rapped and avoid traversing to Hand of God. All in all, stellar route!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 5, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
Well done, Moose. That thing stays on you the whole way.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Oct 6, 2014 - 12:06am PT
South side of canyon holds some gems.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 6, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Dan, I got to the thin crack/flake on p3 and didn't like the looks of it, so I traversed right to another finger crack in a corner directly on the arête. I had a feeling this was not the typical way because I had to clean loose rock as I went. This led directly to the p3 anchors of Yellow Fin. From there we traversed left into the double cracks (stellar!).

When those petered out we did some face moves right directly below the triangular roof. From there we extended a piece up high then pulled some slabby runout moves left back onto the east face (spicy!). This led to a bulging, dirty crack/seam/corner with a fixed nut. The final moves felt about 11ish. The fifth pitch was an easy corner that put us into a gully and finally the 3 bolts atop p4 of Y.F.

I guess we did a variation (Riding Yellow Fin in the Topographic Ocean)?

edit: we also did the Yellow Tail start in the bushy alcove left of the Topo Ocean's first pitch. So I guess we did the "Riding on the Fins of the Yellow Tail in the Topographic Ocean" variation. So many options!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 6, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
F*#king birds - no respect. I'll take them over bats tho.

Nice weather out there now. Looking forward to more multipitch sending. Any idea on the east face finish Kdog and I climbed? It was wicked dirty but had a nut at the bulge.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Oct 7, 2014 - 09:37am PT
Copy that. We will need to go back and climb it going up the slab to the double cracks and thru the triangular roof.

Really nice route overall. With another anchor station the route could be rapped with a 70 I think.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Oct 12, 2014 - 08:09am PT
Sorry Moose. Hopefully you can find someone to play nice with you.

Im outa climbing for a while.
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