Metolius Rap Hangers

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Messages 21 - 32 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 23, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
Actually I did think. There are six sets of that style rap hangers localy and I NEVER have a problem with my rope kinking when useing them. Pulling or lowering. The few times that I have seen ropes kink on those anchors it was 100% user error. Rope running into the belay devise from the top and oposite side from the stack of rope intstead of straight down from the locking side of the device directly to the rope pile.

So I will have to repete myself. If your rope handeling skills suck you will not like these anchors. They do pull a bit stiffer than most other anchors. If however your rope handeling skills are half decent these anchors will be perfectly functional and will not twist your rope.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 23, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
They're great for ultra low visual impact. Sure they twist the rope when pulling, but so do single-ring Fixes (admittedly the Metolius are a bit worse). It's not that big a deal usually. The only other drawback is how thick the hanger is - which only matters for hand drilling short bolts (you want medium/longer bolts with them). They used to be the only choice for factory camo low-impact anchors, but you can get the Fixe single and double ring anchors in tan camo, so for camo situations the ASCA usually uses the double-ring Fixes with tan camo (and they are factory stamped "ASCA").

But I still have a few of mine, and I save them for minimum visual impact anchors. And obviously not for lower-off/"sport" anchors...
Pate

Trad climber
Feb 23, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
they are way better than anything pictured here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=988679&msg=1092778#msg1092778
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 23, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
maby I don't notice the twist because most of the other anchors in my area are single ring Fixe style. Its basicly a non factor. I have seen a few twisted messes from loweriing but they were all top rope wankers who didn't know WTF they were doing... I would not go out and buy these intentionaly but if I ran accross some super cheap I will snagg them and use them with no qualms.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
Many thanks for all the comments, amigos.


I was really hoping to get LEB on here, but I screwed up my post title. It should have read:

"Dick Cheney uses metolius rap hangers".

Climb safe.
Cannon

Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
Feb 25, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
are you guys rapping off of one bolt? that seems sketch to me. i have rapped off of two of these and i dig them. i would like to see the basket (where the rope bends) get a little wider just to make me feel better. and maybe some more serface area contacting the rock. but i love how easy they are to use as a ancore, rap off of. no added visual impact on the rock. and when you have a standard hanger with chain/rings/quick liks in them sometimes it is tuff to fit your biner in there too. but back to rapping off of one bolt.......?
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 25, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
No. we're using two in general. That pic of Minerals rapping off a single one was one he had just placed, and he is super experienced and willing to take the risk.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 25, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
I was only willing to rap off a single bolt once, it was a new spot, I rapped down to where I thought was a crack, and it was a loose block, separated from the cliff that formed the crack. I started to handdrill a single bolt with a dull bit into the main wall, as the sun was getting close to below the horizon. I quickly realized that the bit was useless and the andesite was harder than most everything else locally, and after a 30' 5.10 traverse, was able to get to a 3" diameter tree that didn't seem to bend too far. So I used that.

But I rarely sport climb, and I bet those guys do it fairly frequently by comparison.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 25, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
Not a big fan of them.

They're 1018 steel. Yeah, they're painted, but, after a rappel or two, the paint wears off and the bare steel is very prone to corrosion. And, they rust like gangbusters.

Of course, they're so thick it'd probably take a long time for them to rust to the point of not being safe...but...

That said, I have a bunch of them I bought on sale somewhere. I'll use them like mentioned above, when I need a rap anchor that probably won't see much use later on. When I do, I like a short chain (or ring on a sling or whatever) above the rap hanger with the rope load going mostly into the ring, and, just along for the ride in the rap hanger. That way, I don't groove out he hanger but it still serves as a back up to the primary anchor.

So many better options for a well used rappel anchor that I don't consider these rap hangers at all.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, California
Feb 25, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
Hey Werlin;

If you want some advice on rap hangers,
maybe you shoul ask Weld__it.
He says he's an expert on rap anchors.


:)
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 25, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
The metelious hangers are so beefy they will not wear out in this lifetime. I have never seen one even close to getting grooved out. Adding additional chain to them is counter productive and defeats the low impact thing.. The rust that appears is just surface rust and have never seen anything structuraly wrong with the hangers on this set up. I do think however that they tourque the bolts more than thinner hangers.
couchmaster

climber
Oct 12, 2017 - 12:39pm PT


I just heard that Metolius discontinued these (quite some time back as it turns out). I googled it and found this thread. LOL
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