They're great for ultra low visual impact. Sure they twist the rope when pulling, but so do single-ring Fixes (admittedly the Metolius are a bit worse). It's not that big a deal usually. The only other drawback is how thick the hanger is - which only matters for hand drilling short bolts (you want medium/longer bolts with them). They used to be the only choice for factory camo low-impact anchors, but you can get the Fixe single and double ring anchors in tan camo, so for camo situations the ASCA usually uses the double-ring Fixes with tan camo (and they are factory stamped "ASCA").
But I still have a few of mine, and I save them for minimum visual impact anchors. And obviously not for lower-off/"sport" anchors...
maby I don't notice the twist because most of the other anchors in my area are single ring Fixe style. Its basicly a non factor. I have seen a few twisted messes from loweriing but they were all top rope wankers who didn't know WTF they were doing... I would not go out and buy these intentionaly but if I ran accross some super cheap I will snagg them and use them with no qualms.
are you guys rapping off of one bolt? that seems sketch to me. i have rapped off of two of these and i dig them. i would like to see the basket (where the rope bends) get a little wider just to make me feel better. and maybe some more serface area contacting the rock. but i love how easy they are to use as a ancore, rap off of. no added visual impact on the rock. and when you have a standard hanger with chain/rings/quick liks in them sometimes it is tuff to fit your biner in there too. but back to rapping off of one bolt.......?
I was only willing to rap off a single bolt once, it was a new spot, I rapped down to where I thought was a crack, and it was a loose block, separated from the cliff that formed the crack. I started to handdrill a single bolt with a dull bit into the main wall, as the sun was getting close to below the horizon. I quickly realized that the bit was useless and the andesite was harder than most everything else locally, and after a 30' 5.10 traverse, was able to get to a 3" diameter tree that didn't seem to bend too far. So I used that.
But I rarely sport climb, and I bet those guys do it fairly frequently by comparison.
They're 1018 steel. Yeah, they're painted, but, after a rappel or two, the paint wears off and the bare steel is very prone to corrosion. And, they rust like gangbusters.
Of course, they're so thick it'd probably take a long time for them to rust to the point of not being safe...but...
That said, I have a bunch of them I bought on sale somewhere. I'll use them like mentioned above, when I need a rap anchor that probably won't see much use later on. When I do, I like a short chain (or ring on a sling or whatever) above the rap hanger with the rope load going mostly into the ring, and, just along for the ride in the rap hanger. That way, I don't groove out he hanger but it still serves as a back up to the primary anchor.
So many better options for a well used rappel anchor that I don't consider these rap hangers at all.
The metelious hangers are so beefy they will not wear out in this lifetime. I have never seen one even close to getting grooved out. Adding additional chain to them is counter productive and defeats the low impact thing.. The rust that appears is just surface rust and have never seen anything structuraly wrong with the hangers on this set up. I do think however that they tourque the bolts more than thinner hangers.