Metolius Rap Hangers

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 21 - 28 of total 28 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 23, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
maby I don't notice the twist because most of the other anchors in my area are single ring Fixe style. Its basicly a non factor. I have seen a few twisted messes from loweriing but they were all top rope wankers who didn't know WTF they were doing... I would not go out and buy these intentionaly but if I ran accross some super cheap I will snagg them and use them with no qualms.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
Many thanks for all the comments, amigos.


I was really hoping to get LEB on here, but I screwed up my post title. It should have read:

"Dick Cheney uses metolius rap hangers".

Climb safe.
Cannon

Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
Feb 25, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
are you guys rapping off of one bolt? that seems sketch to me. i have rapped off of two of these and i dig them. i would like to see the basket (where the rope bends) get a little wider just to make me feel better. and maybe some more serface area contacting the rock. but i love how easy they are to use as a ancore, rap off of. no added visual impact on the rock. and when you have a standard hanger with chain/rings/quick liks in them sometimes it is tuff to fit your biner in there too. but back to rapping off of one bolt.......?
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 25, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
No. we're using two in general. That pic of Minerals rapping off a single one was one he had just placed, and he is super experienced and willing to take the risk.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 25, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
I was only willing to rap off a single bolt once, it was a new spot, I rapped down to where I thought was a crack, and it was a loose block, separated from the cliff that formed the crack. I started to handdrill a single bolt with a dull bit into the main wall, as the sun was getting close to below the horizon. I quickly realized that the bit was useless and the andesite was harder than most everything else locally, and after a 30' 5.10 traverse, was able to get to a 3" diameter tree that didn't seem to bend too far. So I used that.

But I rarely sport climb, and I bet those guys do it fairly frequently by comparison.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 25, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
Not a big fan of them.

They're 1018 steel. Yeah, they're painted, but, after a rappel or two, the paint wears off and the bare steel is very prone to corrosion. And, they rust like gangbusters.

Of course, they're so thick it'd probably take a long time for them to rust to the point of not being safe...but...

That said, I have a bunch of them I bought on sale somewhere. I'll use them like mentioned above, when I need a rap anchor that probably won't see much use later on. When I do, I like a short chain (or ring on a sling or whatever) above the rap hanger with the rope load going mostly into the ring, and, just along for the ride in the rap hanger. That way, I don't groove out he hanger but it still serves as a back up to the primary anchor.

So many better options for a well used rappel anchor that I don't consider these rap hangers at all.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 25, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
The metelious hangers are so beefy they will not wear out in this lifetime. I have never seen one even close to getting grooved out. Adding additional chain to them is counter productive and defeats the low impact thing.. The rust that appears is just surface rust and have never seen anything structuraly wrong with the hangers on this set up. I do think however that they tourque the bolts more than thinner hangers.
couchmaster

climber
Oct 12, 2017 - 12:39pm PT


I just heard that Metolius discontinued these (quite some time back as it turns out). I googled it and found this thread. LOL
Messages 21 - 28 of total 28 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta