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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Really great thread!
Sidebar question:
anyone know what "type" of hat this is?
Or, what this type of hat is called, commonly?
I'd like to look for one, and am wondering
what they (hats of that type) are called...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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frog-e
You mean one of these hats?
Popular in the early 60s and commonly referred to as Tyrolean Hats. Back then, readily available at the Ski Hut etc. Today? Maybe try Sporthaus Schuster in Germany?
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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cool guido!
yes, those hats. ;-)
having seen enough of them (in pics) worn by climbers in various photos from that era (including John Salathe, I think) started to wonder what they're called.
Thanks for the feedback; Tyrolean hats. They look like they're made from felt?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I often pine for the old days but I definetly don't miss those silly hats.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Easy hat to make so find youself a felt artist and show them a shot of one. Felt is a hot material these days so it shouldn't be hard.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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guido, Tyrolean hats they are!
google search:
I say we take up a fund and get one for donini!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 10, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Ah Donini, you may not miss those silly hats but there were other assets in wearing them. Perhaps you missed out ?
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FredC
Boulder climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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If you want to see one of those hats in use. This is Al Steck giving instruction in rapelling without any of that new equipment in 2008. He was totally in his hat.
We did not try this out on this occasion. I am waiting for a big overhang.
Fred
PS: I went to Indian Rock yesterday and can report that gravity has indeed increased in recent years.
FC
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 10, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
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Guido, when you cut Lederhosen that close to the bone, the silliness quotient is nullified.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 10, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Captain Long and Tyrolean Steck
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Sep 18, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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This is wonderful stuff, gives me insight into Indian Rock's
golden era. I remember when Higgins first took me to Indian Rock
and showed me literally every route and more... I got
a little perspective, since we had so much much more rock near Boulder
at that time and had our own parallel history. The rock
seemed polished from
lots of activity. Amazing what creative people can do when given
so small a resource as Indian Rock. And then to be shown Yosemite,
by contrast! No wonder they were all so great.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 18, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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Must be a nice view at this moment... misty fog settling over SF, but the bridge is still visible and the sky is clear up higher.
What is the route that starts on the northeast side of the I boulder? (near the entrance to the tunnel that is the easiest way to the top) By extrapolation, I'm thinking it would be about I14 or I15, with a committing swing up and right over the overhanging arete, but then it's pretty easy slab to top. Probably 5.8-5.9 but unacceptable to fall.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 18, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
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I-14 was what happened if you kept going left from I-13. The arete route we used to call I-15 but knew we probably were making it up.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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hey there say, just a bump...
saw some interesting things here...
i don't know much about royal robbins and always
like to read these...
:)
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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I have never been to IR, but use to occasionaly see RR soloing in the Valley in the early seventies. The open books behind C4 and elsewhere. He never said a word each time he walked up or passed us. Except for one time he got up to the crux of this new route down at Knob Hill. It was obviously an 'on sight' for him, I believe it was .10a or .10b! After a few moments of contemplation he called down and asked if anyone of us would like to rope up and do the climb with him. We responded, "GO FOR IT YA BIG CHICKEN SH#T!" in the spirit of Frank Sacherer!
Just kidding! lol
One of our crew, a young lady, gladly joined him and they ended up doing several routes together that day.
Pat - that was around '73. and it was at the 'New Diversions" cliff (i guess that is a different area then Knob Hill/i forget?). He was able to down climb since he hadn't commited to that move. I believe his quiet demeanor had a lot to do with his intense focus. He was the epitomy of control and conservation of movement, imo! Very fluid. A master on stone, and we were all eyes and ears (should he have spoken).
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:51am PT
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Funny how the legends grow...
Splitter, what year roughly would that have been with Royal
on Knob wall? One year I "rescued" Heinz Mariacher off that wall.
He went up to solo the obvious nice line, and it's all pretty straight-
forward except one move that is a bit committing. He made the
hard move, and there was another one just past that, so he decided
to climb down but couldn't reverse the first hard move. I don't think
it's 5.10 but approaches that... and Heinz politely saw me down
below with Luisa Iovane and asked if I would like to do the climb
with him (translated, come and give me a belay). So
Luisa belayed me up... Sound a little similar...
I would bet one or other Peter and Higgins (and others, Beck,
Guido, etc.) could speak about
Pratt's climbs at Indian Rock. I just know he was immediately
identified as an exceptional climber, virtually in a league of
his own. If I recall, there are a few little testpieces named
after him at IR. Chuck was never a fanatical boulderer but had such
a natural gift he would casually visit some boulder and
more or less set a new standard. He always viewed it more or
less as play.... I speak about the late '50s
and early '60s.
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ArmandoWyo
climber
Wyoming
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
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Before this gets too off-track, I'll add the original guide to Indian Rock. Dick Leonard did 2 of them, the first was November 13, 1939, and then a "reprint" in April 3, 1950. Both were mimeos on cheap stock colored paper. The 1939 is hard to see, so I will post both. The originals (if the term can be used of mimeos - ask someone over 60 what mimeo was) are at the guidebook collection I established at the AAC Library.
Armando
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ArmandoWyo
climber
Wyoming
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Comparing the 2 descriptions of I-12, the 1939 guide (and probably all done by Leonard), said that "It can be done, but one will have to be good." Maybe Dick should have added, And sober. The 1950 version of the Indian Rock Guide is obviously a re-type of the 1939 mimeo. The 1950 version added, "Ed. Has anyone been that good since 1939?" Although both are said to be "by Dick Leonard", I can't imagine Dick writing the Ed-note.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 20, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
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Thank you Armando, for those excerpts. I didn't realize I-12 was done before WWII. Considering the likely footwear available, that's quite an achievement.
John
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Sep 21, 2012 - 05:29am PT
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I bouldered with Galen, Steve, Tom, and Bruce. Bruce, amazing, at what 60 something or more, he would put a hand jam in between the 'fork' of two large branches of the tree down by the pit and do one-arm pull-ups, from a hand jam in a tree, AMAZING.
I have been there when Steck, Robbins, Chouinard and others were there but I can't say that I bouldered WITH them.
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