Fun New Sharma Video: Neanderthal, First Rnd First Minute

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Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 2, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
Fun shorter video of Sharma on First Round First Minute in Margalef and Neanderthal FA in Santa Linya



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVXdC-PY-nw&feature=player_embedded
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Feb 2, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
Random question 1: does everyone agree with the following statement:
If you're a "regular joe" and take "victory whippers," you're kind of a tool. But if you're CS, then you're still super cool?

Random question 2: are these 5.15b "consolidated," that is, do other high end climbers agree with them. (I don't suppose non high-end climbers can have a meaningful opinion.)

Video looks great.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 2, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
Wow!

Mas! Mas! Mas!

How the h*ll does one break down something like 5.15 into a and b grades anyway??
Geesh.........
Pate

Trad climber
Feb 2, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
I liked it when I was a 5.11 climber and the hard grades were 5.13. I felt so much more powerful.

Now that I've dropped a number and the other end is up around 5.15+, well, I guess I just feel old.

Love that first shot of his face. "Powered by Herb-A-Life".
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 2, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
He does waaay too many one finger pocket things.

I feel sorry for his hands when he gets old like the rest of us.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Feb 2, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
Why would taking victory whippers make you a tool? It's about having fun right? So unless your a "I climb to look cool type" why would you care what others do as victory celebration.

Consolidated? Your right blahblah, we should be questioning sharmas climbing prowess. He wouldn't know what 5.15 feels like...He hasn't shown us all enough hard stuff yet. You should go try the route and get back to us.

blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Feb 2, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
Why would taking victory whippers make you a tool? It's about having fun right?
Right. Keep on with the victory whippers, yo.

Consolidated? Your right blahblah, we should be questioning sharmas climbing prowess.
Uh, yeah, like I did that. It's a bit interesting to me that someone goes for years without rating his hardest climbs, then starts rating them again when it's at a number that no one else is using. Hence my question. My comment could be seen as mildly questioning his rating ability, but not at all questioning his climbing ability.
Work on your reading comprehension skillz between taking victory whippers, bro. And I'm sure that Sharma is glad you know that you got his back.
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Feb 2, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
impressive climbing, way to send and have fun...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 2, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
Who cares? He loves climbing and he's having fun. He's a kid, his life is great, he has wonderful talents and he is a wonderful human being. I say all the more power to him!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Feb 2, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
If he says its 5.15b, I think I'll take his word for it. Super nice guy and class act.
Credit: Studly
Cpt0bvi0u5

Trad climber
Merced CA
Feb 2, 2010 - 09:10pm PT
well put Mark
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Feb 2, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Regardless of your opinion of Chris, you gotta love the psych and sending!

I'm with Mark, as well.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Feb 2, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
You gotta like the local guys,

or should i say "loco"?

no, save that term for Potter.

what's Uncle Dean doing lately, anyway?

wingsuit down everest?

not enuff wind me thinks.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 2, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
gotta like the production of fun

that doesn't have a grade
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Feb 2, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
Class act for sure. Thanks for posting this Peter.
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Feb 3, 2010 - 02:27am PT
Chris Sharma's like the best climber that ever was.

I read an article about him by Sonnie Trotter in some climbing mag about how he was so jealous of him. Sonnie has done the first ascent of Cobra Crack at Squamish but he's no Sharma.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 3, 2010 - 02:29am PT
frickin Wes, haha!


thx for the link peter. I've been youtubing much too much but I still dig the high production high quality vids.

MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Feb 3, 2010 - 02:41am PT
Mason's stupid sycophantic post should do it's trolling job with this crowd.

Maybe that was the intent...

DO YA THINK? OMG!
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Feb 3, 2010 - 02:44am PT
It does debasement supertopo a bit, doesn't it.

Btw, "its" is possessive in the form you used but no apostrophe is needed.

Just sayin!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Feb 3, 2010 - 03:46am PT
I don't think they're consolidated yet. Some of the rock at Margalef is a bit questionable (haven't been to Sta. Linya). Maybe in about 50,000 years it will be consolidated.

Seriously, though, neither of the routes has had a second ascent yet, so who knows what the grades will end up at. As far as I know, Sharma's suggested grades don't often get adjusted downwards.

There is an amusing discussion at www.8a.nu about Sharma's having grabbed the anchor on Neanderthal.

So, it seems that neanderthals and humans may have been able to produce offspring. That somehow doesn't come as too much of a surprise.

Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Feb 3, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
Look, there's only one way to find out if it's really 5.15b.

I'll have to go climb it and then report back.

Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 3, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
Geez, it's only 5.15b. According to an old Beal Ropes ad, 5.15 was done back in the 1980's.
Mason

Trad climber
Yay Area
Feb 3, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
True, Gunkie.

I was thinking there's nothing like a good 5.17d rx.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 3, 2010 - 01:32pm PT

"Why would taking victory whippers make you a tool? It's about having fun right?"
Right. Keep on with the victory whippers, yo.

Doesn't seem as self-indulgent in this instance: Long, ultra-steep cave pitch that lips out to chains on a vertical face. Tons o' rope friction,sharp limestone.

If he clips those anchors and lowers, it's a long grind back to the ground, the rope leaves a bunch of its sheath on the lip, and he ends up in the maquis eighty feet from his pharmaceuticals.

I just hate the screaming. I understand that, for Sharma, there is actually a metaphysical rationale for it, but it's spread like a frickin virus to every gym and crag in the world. Not his fault, I guess, but it sucks.
billygoat

climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
Feb 3, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
Chris only ever did one thing for me; show up at my wedding as a best man!

Credit: billygoat


I'd tell you who the other guy is, but he's kinda a tool. Okay, he's actually an artist tool. So I guess he's a con artist. No, actually a zen freak. Wait... I like my friends. Chris is one of the biggest sources of inspiration for so many people. You can criticize him for what he hasn't done, but what are you going to say about his accomplishments? As for Adam, don't get on his bad side. Payback is a bitch when you mess with Uncle Sam.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 4, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Sep 4, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
some cool videos, thanks for posting those.

not sure I've ever seen Sharma wear a helmet.
hb81

climber
Sep 4, 2012 - 04:57pm PT
not sure I've ever seen Sharma wear a helmet.

And WHAT a helmet! LOL!
Really pleased to see him bolting from the ground up. I expected all these insane sport routes there to be bolted on rappel.
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
Awesome stuff!
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
Forget the film name but when he gave a presentation at movement climbing gym a couple months ago he was wearing a helmet. It was on ~7-9 pitch-ish 5.14 climb he bolted- good stuff
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Sep 4, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
sonic- was it bolted on lead? too cool! Bachar style on hooks!
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Sep 5, 2012 - 12:13am PT

Wow, even I can't say anything old school, lame or bit'er about Sharma!!

"is it really 5.15b?"

really??

now that's a lame-ass statement

wait.....maybe BlahBlahBlah is Adam Ondra??

O.K.

then that's cool,

because Adam O knows 5.15


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 5, 2012 - 12:20am PT
The new version of the classic Sheridan cartoon will feature a climber being consoled by the words, "Honn'ld never climbed fifteen b. Florine never even climbed fifteen a, f'r gosh sakes."

Sharma by a knockout.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 2, 2012 - 01:20am PT
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 2, 2012 - 01:32am PT
You guys are homos.

SHARMA IS AN AMERICAN LEGEND BITCHES.

AND...I haven't sport climbed in a year (fat...weak...scared)...but understand the burliness.

Watch climbing history and be amazed hater bitches.

JGA
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 2, 2012 - 01:32am PT
He didn't rate his routes for a number of years... I wonder why.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
bumpage
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 14, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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