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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Random question 1: does everyone agree with the following statement:
If you're a "regular joe" and take "victory whippers," you're kind of a tool. But if you're CS, then you're still super cool?
Random question 2: are these 5.15b "consolidated," that is, do other high end climbers agree with them. (I don't suppose non high-end climbers can have a meaningful opinion.)
Video looks great.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Wow!
Mas! Mas! Mas!
How the h*ll does one break down something like 5.15 into a and b grades anyway??
Geesh.........
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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He does waaay too many one finger pocket things.
I feel sorry for his hands when he gets old like the rest of us.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Why would taking victory whippers make you a tool? It's about having fun right? So unless your a "I climb to look cool type" why would you care what others do as victory celebration.
Consolidated? Your right blahblah, we should be questioning sharmas climbing prowess. He wouldn't know what 5.15 feels like...He hasn't shown us all enough hard stuff yet. You should go try the route and get back to us.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Why would taking victory whippers make you a tool? It's about having fun right? Right. Keep on with the victory whippers, yo.
Consolidated? Your right blahblah, we should be questioning sharmas climbing prowess. Uh, yeah, like I did that. It's a bit interesting to me that someone goes for years without rating his hardest climbs, then starts rating them again when it's at a number that no one else is using. Hence my question. My comment could be seen as mildly questioning his rating ability, but not at all questioning his climbing ability.
Work on your reading comprehension skillz between taking victory whippers, bro. And I'm sure that Sharma is glad you know that you got his back.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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impressive climbing, way to send and have fun...
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Who cares? He loves climbing and he's having fun. He's a kid, his life is great, he has wonderful talents and he is a wonderful human being. I say all the more power to him!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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If he says its 5.15b, I think I'll take his word for it. Super nice guy and class act.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Regardless of your opinion of Chris, you gotta love the psych and sending!
I'm with Mark, as well.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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You gotta like the local guys,
or should i say "loco"?
no, save that term for Potter.
what's Uncle Dean doing lately, anyway?
wingsuit down everest?
not enuff wind me thinks.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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gotta like the production of fun
that doesn't have a grade
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Class act for sure. Thanks for posting this Peter.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Chris Sharma's like the best climber that ever was.
I read an article about him by Sonnie Trotter in some climbing mag about how he was so jealous of him. Sonnie has done the first ascent of Cobra Crack at Squamish but he's no Sharma.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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frickin Wes, haha!
thx for the link peter. I've been youtubing much too much but I still dig the high production high quality vids.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Mason's stupid sycophantic post should do it's trolling job with this crowd.
Maybe that was the intent...
DO YA THINK? OMG!
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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It does debasement supertopo a bit, doesn't it.
Btw, "its" is possessive in the form you used but no apostrophe is needed.
Just sayin!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I don't think they're consolidated yet. Some of the rock at Margalef is a bit questionable (haven't been to Sta. Linya). Maybe in about 50,000 years it will be consolidated.
Seriously, though, neither of the routes has had a second ascent yet, so who knows what the grades will end up at. As far as I know, Sharma's suggested grades don't often get adjusted downwards.
There is an amusing discussion at www.8a.nu about Sharma's having grabbed the anchor on Neanderthal.
So, it seems that neanderthals and humans may have been able to produce offspring. That somehow doesn't come as too much of a surprise.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Look, there's only one way to find out if it's really 5.15b.
I'll have to go climb it and then report back.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Geez, it's only 5.15b. According to an old Beal Ropes ad, 5.15 was done back in the 1980's.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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True, Gunkie.
I was thinking there's nothing like a good 5.17d rx.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"Why would taking victory whippers make you a tool? It's about having fun right?"
Right. Keep on with the victory whippers, yo.
Doesn't seem as self-indulgent in this instance: Long, ultra-steep cave pitch that lips out to chains on a vertical face. Tons o' rope friction,sharp limestone.
If he clips those anchors and lowers, it's a long grind back to the ground, the rope leaves a bunch of its sheath on the lip, and he ends up in the maquis eighty feet from his pharmaceuticals.
I just hate the screaming. I understand that, for Sharma, there is actually a metaphysical rationale for it, but it's spread like a frickin virus to every gym and crag in the world. Not his fault, I guess, but it sucks.
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billygoat
climber
Pees on beard to seek mates.
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Chris only ever did one thing for me; show up at my wedding as a best man!
I'd tell you who the other guy is, but he's kinda a tool. Okay, he's actually an artist tool. So I guess he's a con artist. No, actually a zen freak. Wait... I like my friends. Chris is one of the biggest sources of inspiration for so many people. You can criticize him for what he hasn't done, but what are you going to say about his accomplishments? As for Adam, don't get on his bad side. Payback is a bitch when you mess with Uncle Sam.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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some cool videos, thanks for posting those.
not sure I've ever seen Sharma wear a helmet.
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hb81
climber
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not sure I've ever seen Sharma wear a helmet.
And WHAT a helmet! LOL!
Really pleased to see him bolting from the ground up. I expected all these insane sport routes there to be bolted on rappel.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Awesome stuff!
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Forget the film name but when he gave a presentation at movement climbing gym a couple months ago he was wearing a helmet. It was on ~7-9 pitch-ish 5.14 climb he bolted- good stuff
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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sonic- was it bolted on lead? too cool! Bachar style on hooks!
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Wow, even I can't say anything old school, lame or bit'er about Sharma!!
"is it really 5.15b?"
really??
now that's a lame-ass statement
wait.....maybe BlahBlahBlah is Adam Ondra??
O.K.
then that's cool,
because Adam O knows 5.15
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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The new version of the classic Sheridan cartoon will feature a climber being consoled by the words, "Honn'ld never climbed fifteen b. Florine never even climbed fifteen a, f'r gosh sakes."
Sharma by a knockout.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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He didn't rate his routes for a number of years... I wonder why.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2012 - 11:21pm PT
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bumpage
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