Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 7, 2005 - 01:21pm PT
Perhaps you will think that reading too many Supertopos has turned my brain to mush, but in any case, I couldnít figure out several of the climbs at the Jungle Gym. The routes by Breast Fest were easy to spot, but down at the right end, the Reid topo was a poor match to the rock. The thick tree canopy didnít help, and I never found The Viper which was my main reason for going over there.
Can anybody help me out of this state of cluelessness?
About 60-100 feet to the right of Flight Attendant and Dancing In the Dark is a somewhat mungy 5.6 approach pitch that leads up and left to the start of the Viper. Two other good routes that aren't in the guide are Flight 800 (5.12a) and Bush Pilot (5.12a-b). Bush Pilot turns the left side of the giant roof just left of Flight Attendant and Flight 800 turns the right side of the same roof. They both have some bolts but, require gear.
I know the giant roof. It is on the left side of a large left facing corner. To the right of this corner, the lowest part of the buttress forms a bit of an arete. Reid doesn't show the big corner at all (or the giant roof).
Is that approach pitch to the Viper up through the vegatation that is just to the RIGHT of the toe of the buttress? (Reid shows it to the left.)
I thought that the stuff up by the big roof might be interesting.
That sounds about right. The approach pitch is pretty vegetated but, easy climbing. There is also a pretty classic 5.10b hand and fist crack called Patty Melt 100-150 feet up the hill on the right side of the toe. There are also plenty of new pitches to do once off the ground though they are hard to see because of all the trees.
It was certainly worth going back over there a second time. The overhanging thin hands part of The Viper (up through the bulge) is great. The corner on the top part of the pitch has some grunge, but isnít hard. Nor was the vegetated approach pitch the nasty bushwack that it looked like it might be.
I also thought that Flight Attendant was good. It was a slight bit dirty, and the rock has a coarse grain to it, but this gives your shoes good traction. There are not all that many overhanging 5.10 cracks around, and this is a cool one.
If I get back up there, Iíll try that route out the right side of the roof. It looks good, but I didnít feel like I still had the juice to give it a go.
Hereís a note to whoever might pull this thread up in a future search:
Reid has a couple of mistakes in his topo. He doesnít show the large left facing corner under the roof. Flight Attendant is on the right side of this corner (facing left) and goes up to the right hand edge of the roof. Reid also has the toe of the buttress wrong. The toe is to the right of Flight Attendant and just LEFT of the approach pitch for The Viper.
There is a faint trail that heads right up to the big corner.