PETER CROFT INTERVIEW

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Messages 1 - 63 of total 63 in this topic
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
I guess I am trying to make up for that rash of "inappropriate" threads the other day.

Here's some light reading about Sir Croft by Nick O'Connell from R&I 1993.











tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 7, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
Cool old article.

The stuff about sport climbing seems true, people are still trying lots of stuff.

Also I wonder what happened with Southern Belle, I bet there is a story there.
LittleAddict

climber
The Ibm stellarsphere
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:05pm PT
"But 5.14 is just like 5.7..."
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
Quite a guy! Too bad he doesn't post up here, but then again...that's not him. Hey Peter hope yer feeling better!
Peace
tonesfrommars

Trad climber
California
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
I have always loved hearing what Croft has to say about soloing. IMO he seems to really be in touch with what his motivations are and ought to be (at least it really resonates with me)
I wish the sender films guys would do a piece following him around for a day of back country link-ups and just get some of his vibe and outlook documented for the young climbers of today.

Good role model that guy! (regardless the nature of one's climbing activities)
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
I asked him about Mathes Ridge one time.
He RAVED about it. That Dude is Soul.
Anastasia

Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
Nice! I really enjoyed reading that.
Chief

climber
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:37pm PT
Hats off once again to the great Pedro Croftini!

PB
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
His guidebook The Good the Great and the Awesome is very entertaining and unusually well-written.

Kind of funnny: a couple years ago a friend and me were fueling up at the gas station in Bishop about to go climb Humphreys. Who should drive his beater luxury sedan up to the pump but PC himself. We were literally looking at the topo in The Good the Great and The Awesome when he pulled up. My pal said something like "Hey Peter, we're going to climb one of your routes." Croft looked like he was trying hard not to be obviously uncomfortable and said something like "Great, have at it, guys."

Oh and the new Bishop Rock Climb book he wrote with the other guy is great too.
bmacd

Social climber
British Columbia
Jan 7, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
Great article about a great man ...

but Ron Gomez's comment left me wondering
Hey Peter hope yer feeling better!

Is Peter not well ?
hlehmann

Trad climber
San Fernando Valley
Jan 7, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
One of his more memorable quotes from a slide show some years ago (paraphrased):
If you're soloing a ten pitch climb, and you've done eight piches and it starts raining and you have to downclimb those same eight pitches, it's OK. After all, you got 16 pitches of climbing in, which is more than you would have gotten if it didn't start raining.
Chief

climber
Jan 7, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Bruce, apparently just the usual gombu that's going around.
50

climber
Stumptown
Jan 9, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
I had the honor to climb with Peter a few years ago. He guided me up Astroboy and a few classics on the Cookie. I admire his ability to be friendly and humble in the context of being the best at what he does. Not many heros these days can maintain that kind of dignity.

Peter Croft on the enjoyable sixth pitch of Astroman
Peter Croft on the enjoyable sixth pitch of Astroman
Credit: 50
Peter Croft approaching the crux on Wheat Thin
Peter Croft approaching the crux on Wheat Thin
Credit: 50


J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Jan 9, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
bump for Croft.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 9, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
bmacd...no worries, he's fine, just recovering from a cold! Sorry 'bout that!
Peace
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Jan 9, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
yeah, bump
bmacd

Trad climber
British Columbia
Jan 9, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
All's well then !

My first multi pitch route ever was with him in the late 70's.

GCF ? no it's Peter Croft - Split Beaver  circa 1980 Squamish BC
GCF ? no it's Peter Croft - Split Beaver circa 1980 Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd


Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 9, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
Look at those UNpanelled EBs!!

Peter is a real nice guy.


(and I got a kick out of seeing that old AMGA ad on the last page listing so many friends)
L

climber
H2O..what is this H2O thing of which you speak?
Jan 11, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
Nice article, IHP. Peter's a hero in more ways than a person can count.

Thanks for posting this.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 12, 2010 - 04:52am PT
hey there, say... this is very good... thanks for the share, and a bump for peter croft....

*still learning who all you folks are...
god bless..
:)
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jan 12, 2010 - 06:42am PT
I feel like some french fries.
gonzo chemist

climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
Jan 12, 2010 - 10:50am PT
I can't believe all this Palin crap has got 3 new threads and 150+ total posts, But Sir Croft's interview has only 21! What a cool article. PC is a really inspirational climber; and the tales of his exploits and boundless enthusiasm for the sport are the stuff of legend.


I love his quote, "how can this much fun not cost anything and not be illegal." I've wondered the same thing on my simple little cragging days. I can't imagine doing those crazy long days and monster link-ups. What a hoot!

I also love the story of how after he soloed the Rostrum the first time, he returned the following morning to do it AGAIN because on his first burn he put his hand through the sling for that one smear move, and he said it just didn't feel right. Talk about some lofty ethics!

Thanks for posting up IHP.


-Nick
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Jan 12, 2010 - 11:23am PT
Some of us can't read it (firewall blocks any photobucket, flickr, etc).
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 11:27am PT
...yoazz... (or others)

Any suggestions? I sure will not be transcribing!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 12, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
PC - a class act.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 12, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
Peter is a shining star! Solid in every way that matters!

Thanks for posting this up.
TripleS_in_EBs

Trad climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jan 13, 2010 - 07:52am PT
Got to agree that this is the kind of thread I go to SuperTopo for (not the raging "is to" "is not" "yeah huh" us vs. them threads). These are the ones that inspire and lift us up. In that spirit, here's a pic that transports me to sun warmed rock high up in Tuolumne with a fellow climber that was, and always seems to be, so enthusiastic about every little thing having to do with mountains and climbing. Good day, it was.
Sir Peter wearing the Medlicott grin
Sir Peter wearing the Medlicott grin
Credit: TripleS_in_EBs


matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 13, 2010 - 09:22am PT
"Some of us can't read it (firewall blocks any photobucket, flickr, etc). "


The firewall at my work blocks those sites, but knott photos uploaded to supertopo directly...maybe uploading here will solve things.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 09:56am PT
I have started uploading directly WHENEVER POSSIBLE... however, sometimes I wait, and wait, and wait and the image never uploads so I jump onto an external site.

Why the delay sometimes? Anyone know?
gonzo chemist

climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
Jan 13, 2010 - 11:06am PT
hopefully this will help. we'll see...


Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist

Credit: gonzo chemist
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 11:48am PT
Thanks!
the pretender

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, CA
Jan 13, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
What a humble, solid guy - best of the best
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Jan 13, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
Thanks now I can see it;)
seneca

climber
jamais, jamais pays
Jan 13, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
This is NOT the end of the climb. You HAVE to go to the top. Summits DO matter.
You've got to love that guy.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jan 13, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
Does anyone get the french fry reference?
TripleS_in_EBs

Trad climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jan 13, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
French Fries.

You've got to read one of the many side-splitting stories in The Good, the Great, and the Awesome to understand that one.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jan 14, 2010 - 06:34am PT
TripleS- I'm glad SOMEONE gets it.
Sheesh!
susu

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Jan 14, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
He represents the best of what climbing can be. Went to his slideshow years ago and was throughly inspired eventhough his accomplishments are way beyond my imagining... Still, he has this infectious love for climbing and relates this passion in a down-to-earth, meaningful way. I remember him talking about how great it is to be like a kid playing all day outdoors, balanced with seriousness regarding risk and scrupulous honesty for purity of ethic. Definitely an undersung hero.
TripleS_in_EBs

Trad climber
Poulsbo, WA
Jan 18, 2010 - 12:46am PT
A photo that brings to mind the kind of day where the movement over amazing rock, the stunning Sierra scenery, and the discovery of new terrain all combine to put a smile on your face.
Croft on Cardinal Pinnacle granite
Croft on Cardinal Pinnacle granite
Credit: TripleS_in_EBs
Pate

Trad climber
Feb 7, 2010 - 11:27am PT
bump
Fletcher

Trad climber
not very much, recently.
May 26, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
Another one I've been saving to read... This one was in the bottle for a while and was well worth it.

PC is definitely an inspiration to me. He seems so down to earth and genuinely interested in others, regardless of their abilities. Not a bad thing to aspire to for anyone.

Thanks for posting IHP.

Eric
Brian

climber
California
May 27, 2010 - 12:20am PT
I used to cross paths with Peter a lot, and could say a bunch of positive things about him. One thing that always struck me was how excited and enthusiastic he was about my climbing. He always seemed way more interested in asking me what I had been up to than telling me what he had been up to. He turned me on to a number of 'off the radar' climbs and climbing areas, encouraged me to jump on big routes about which I was uncertain, regaled us with stories in Josh, and just generally made a great impression. Class act.

Brian
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
May 27, 2010 - 09:52pm PT
Fantastic article. What an inspiration Peter is to climbing, mountains, and the general expression of 'redlining the fun meter' in life.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
May 27, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
Watched him free solo Crying Time Again on Lembert. He was smooth, graceful, controlled...I was in awe.
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 09:56am PT
Bump to fill the front page with a little more radness. and less lame.

and 'cause this guy is freakin awesome!
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 8, 2011 - 10:12am PT
Brilliant. Thank you.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 8, 2011 - 10:19am PT
Don't you think PC is a "classy" guy? I always really admire the understated types, which is what he seems to be. He seems to be a man of integrity. Nice!
teamwhipper

climber
Bay Area, CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 11:02am PT
Peter is a great guy, in addition to being a great climber. He spent a couple of winters in the early 90's escaping the ditch, down in Copperopolis. He spent those winters climbing at Jailhouse with Dave Schultz, and put up some fun routes while he was there.

He's donated a day of his guided climbing for the Access Fund Unlock Jailhouse event. We're auctioning that off tomorrow night. If you're interested and can't make the event, but want to bid on it, send me an email with your max bid and we'll submit it for you.

Event details and other stuff being auctioned off here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1386239&msg=1391743

Cheers.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 11, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
Credit: Wade Icey
noal elkins

climber
Feb 11, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
Great interview. There's another great article in an issue of Climbing from around '88 or '89 with him stemming a corner on the cover. Anybody out there got it and want to post it up?
john hansen

climber
Feb 11, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
Peter has posted here on super topo a few times,, here's looking forward to more.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
Feb 11, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
I had never read that interview before so thank you, IHP, for posting that. Thank you to those who bumped this recently too as I did not see it the first time around.
I always enjoy the footage of and interviews with Master Croft on climbing documentaries.
damage

Social climber
olympia, wa
May 18, 2011 - 11:13pm PT
Finally got to read this. Thanks for posting it, so many great articles were printed that I only find here.
climbbjj

Social climber
Tahoe
May 19, 2011 - 12:34am PT
"Born on May 18th, 1958"...

Happy Birthday!!
dugillian

Trad climber
Vancouver
May 19, 2011 - 10:16am PT
Peter is the Man!

It is really awesome to see someone who loves climbing for climbing and not to become some glory whore like so many climbers nowadays---No selling out, no climbing arches in National Parks, no spewing crap, and not becomeing a human advertisement.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
May 19, 2011 - 11:33am PT
Hey, isn't that the same issue that has an article on Derek Hersey... maybe the final one? :(

That was my first climbing mag. I read that thing over and over and over and over and over. Croft instantly became one of my heros. I got excited the few times I saw him in the grocery store, etc around Mammoth. Seems like a great guy.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 11, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
From Mountain 143 (January/February 1992)





RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:33am PT
Big bump! Thanks for that last article Ed, must have been some major political issues happening when u first posted it!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jan 4, 2013 - 10:57am PT
Excellent articles - thanks for posting!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 4, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Thanks for posting those
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jan 4, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
All of those links up are really inspiring me. In lieu of being fast and strong and bold and agile and all of that other stuff that Peter Croft seems to have in spades, I've come up with a link-up more my speed.

Ride bike to the liquor store (maybe pop up a wheelie or two on the way) while holding a basketball. Ride home with no hands while holding the case of beer and the basketball. But don't ride straight home. Stop at the park and do three sets of 10 pullups. Then do bar dips while holding case of beer between knees. Take hackey sack out of pocket and kick until you get a good sweat going. Shoot 25 free throws (hustle in-between shots). Run (don't walk) back to the bike. Ride home (again no-handed). Cool down with a cool one.
Sonic

Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
Jan 7, 2013 - 06:55am PT
Croft Bump
Cam Burns

Social climber
CO
Feb 23, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Thanks for posting that article, Ed. I guess the best thing about every article is what's left out. Ha! Cheers, Cammo.
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