Bachar-Yerian timelinep-who did which ascent and when

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 15, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
whoa, Jay wasn't kidding when he said 'show'
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Aug 15, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
Not the way I would have scheduled the climb, but as soon as you left the ground you never heard another word from down there. The party that night was awesome though! There's something to be said for having all of your friends on hand.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Aug 15, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
So Jan - what's the scoop on the route and training for it? You were up there (in the meadows) a long time. Any good "road to the BY" tips?

Congratulations! Mike
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Aug 15, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
Pimp all of the hard problems on Boulder 1 at Stoney Point to build crimp strength. Do lots and lots of continuous laps at some sport area like the Apes Wall at Malibu. Then work your way thru the tune-ups in Tuolumne.

The first day we started on the right at East Cottage and did all the routes working left thru Orange Plasma. We did Shipoopi the next day (not the 12 pitch). We went to Hammer Dome and did both pitches of Shadow of a Doubt and then Skeletor along with some gold slime stuff, and then after a rest day we went to the Medlicott ledge and did a bunch of routes there. That was more climbing in 6 days then I have done in a long time but it all paid off.

Oh, and the most important piece, find and train up a young rope gun!
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
Aug 15, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Very nice update. Good go on the route!
smoores

Social climber
San Francisco
Aug 17, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
Does anyone have the history of female ascents of the B-Y? I've read through two full threads about it now (this one and the one Clint linked to), and not one mention of any women having sent, or even tried it. If I had to guess, I would imagine Lynn Hill did it at some point, but I have never seen that confirmed anywhere. So - female ascents?
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Aug 17, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
the honeymoon couple with repeat....

and what about Mari?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Aug 17, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
As far as I know Lynn only did the first 2 pitches then bailed. I don't know of any other women how have done it. I know lots that could though.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 17, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
How many leg loops were on the first ascent?
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Aug 18, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
hat's off and congrats to Jan.

I want to be in that good of shape when I get that old.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
Aug 18, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
Old?! Old?! Who the hell are you calling old?!

I always thought of myself as well broken in, not old.

I tell you though, it really helped that I lost 12 pounds this year in preperation.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
CA
Aug 19, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
I knew that would get a laugh.
really Jan, outstanding!

i need to lose at least 25 more, maybe 30.

as far as the old goes, better defined by activity and willingness,
than chronology, you and Gary Valle are both about 27.
Todd Worsfold

Trad climber
Bay Area
Sep 28, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
A belated post, not in here much... Ken Ariza was basically correct, I dragged a buddy up the BYR in 1985. After a long "trip" from North Tahoe to Tuolumene the evening before, we hiked up to Medlicott to climb the 10+ corner to the left of BYR, but it was seeping wet. Didn't want to waste the day, so I suggested the BYR in a temporary moment of insanity (I forgot having read about it several years prior). Didn't look too bad on the topo...At the time, the (bolt-protected)first crux was rated 11a/b. I managed to send it in a couple of tries, then scared the sh#t out of myself getting to the first belay. My partner came up, wanting to rap, but I talked him into letting me give pitch two a try.. After reaching that first bolt, it just became a matter of perseverance and repetition. The rest was rated 10b/c at the time (By John and Dave I'm sure). What struck me most is that the hardest moves on each section were always to be found right before the clip; 25' or so out from the previous bolt! Apparently John would push it until it got a bit dicey and THEN place the bolt. What an icon and legend..RIP John...

For the record, Eagles Way was not my first El Cap Route and was done in 1987 or so. It was Peter Mayfield who recommended the route; Troy Johnson was kind enough to demonstrate how to place a "bashie" (which turned out to be invaluable info!)

TW

KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Sep 28, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
Get 'Em
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Sep 14, 2016 - 08:15am PT
Just watched (again) the video Cole made of the B/Y. Great footage, proud climb.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Sep 14, 2016 - 08:46am PT

Lonnie Kauk on a most stylish, no hesitations, Bachar be proud ascent in 2014.
Peace
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Sep 14, 2016 - 09:35am PT
So far, this has been an all male ascents climb? Have any of the girls tried it?
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Sep 14, 2016 - 09:56am PT
Emily Harrington did it this summer. Don't know if she was the first woman to lead it though.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Sep 14, 2016 - 11:14am PT
amazing thread.
yeah, what caughtinside said - Way to go Emily!!

https://www.facebook.com/emily.a.harrington.3/photos/a.170710776331409.43249.107181562684331/1118596248209519/?type=3&theater
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Sep 14, 2016 - 11:17am PT
Messages 81 - 100 of total 165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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