Discussion Topic |
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 21, 2009 - 03:31am PT
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Done deliberately; planned in advance. Characterized by fully conscious willful intent and a measure of forethought and planning.
Why would anyone intentionally climb A3 choss at Pinnacles?
I have no clue. But maybe one just feels the momentum?
Part of that momentum that carried me when I was younger was reading about Jim Bridwell. I had never met the man, but had read enough that the idea of this man, bigger than life, that Largo and others had described meant a lot to a young impressionable climber.
I decided to be a part of Johntp's efforts to repay that "idea," no in reality that man behind the idea, for the inspiration he has provided to myself and countless hundreds either directly or indirectly.
You should too...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/990887/Jim_Bridwells_Hammer
At Pinnacles Jim had established a route in 1965 called Premeditated with Craig Little. The 1974 Chuck Richards guide to Pinnacles called this route "evil" with loose and rotten cracks and rated it 5.5 A4. Chuck may have gotten it right.
Brad Young's comprehensive guide calls it 5.5 A3...
With the hammer in hand...
...Mucci and I made plans deliberately to do this route and headed to Pinnacles early and put it to good use. The telling of the tale is still coming together for me as I can't really believe I didn't take a whip on the chosstastic rock. And there is much to tell!
For now, think on this: intentionally going up this crack...
___
Part 1 continued...
Or, How to be a Pinnacles Pirate?
"The sea was angry that day, my friend." - George Costanza
If one wants to be a pirate, understanding the seas the stars and the seasons is critical. I knew it wouldn't be effortless as soon as the sun started to come up. As the old adage goes "Red in the Morning, Sailors Warning"...
Clearly, other native Pinnacles Pirates had not fared as well as we would.
The base of the route is a 'kill zone' with detritus from raptors showing that death was ever present in this forgotten corner of the Balconies formation. This is on the West Side of Pinnacles, just to be clear. Not that little gulch on the East Side where bolts are close together.
The churning sense that something could go wrong was ever present. At one point it would make it self felt in my gut, but you have to stuff that away or benefit greatly from your climbing partners. You see it started like this with the best of intentions. I mean how hard could '5.5' be in the first 30 feet before you get the first bolt...
Hammer in the gear loop, free shoes on and knowing where the replaced bolt was from mtnyoung and feral rat's previous ascent gave some courage, but as soon as I got on the big knob above the sling and heard how hollow it was the snail eye got the best of me. Not enough climbing on Pinnacles rock. This was the first day of the Pinnacles season for me.
Luckily Mucci was there... no, actually deliberately. I had talked to Mucci about doing this rediculous adventure several weeks back and he had been on Pinns rock more recently and had a good lead head about him.
Taking a different line he lead us up thru the middle of the knobs, right of where I am in the pic, and pushed thru steeper terrain on ok knobs, delicately pulling on one big serving plater shaped knob that looked ready to fly. Totally in stride he established the high point and set the tone.
For my part, it was time to get comfy and get in the stirrups and start placing gear like this...
The first piece above that initial replaced bolt was a baby angle nailed sideways to the hilt. After hammering it home and not hearing it ring or 'sing' as they say, I put some weight on it. sproing! it shifts down. lovely! hammer hammer hammer with Mjǫllnir. again test it, ah, it is holding. sh#t guess I have to bounce test it now. jingle jingle jingle goes the gear. not slipping, but not entirely confidence building either.
the nearby piece after that is two hybrid aliens equalized in powdered milk. I'm not yet thirsty but visions of chalk dust over my head as I contemplate the ride fill my cranium.
one piece at a time I tell myself. time accelerates, and becomes meaningless. As much as it is a construct of the mind, it has no value at this moment. I'm mostly wrapped up in my own 'dirty old man' laugh, as my girlfriend calls it. I'm laughing at how silly it seems. "What's the next piece," I ask myself?
I get in another decent piece, or what passes for decent at Pinnacles then hit the last bolt. Whew! A1+ and I'm fried! Actually the crack turned out to be better than I envisioned it. Both Feral and Mtnyoung indicated this before, but I see what they mean. The bat guano in some spots seems to have almost case hardened the inner crack by weathering. Slowly I pull thru the left trending lower section to here...
It's not like a got moving fast at the base, but I would have thought my movement was faster. The shadows are already long. It is the end of day one and I've moved only 80ish feet. But I'm alive, and uninjured. The slow pace and deliberate assemblaged of each piece of gear as the absolute best I could get in that 2 to 3 foot radius was purposeful.
One unique piece was an angle that was almost slotted under a flake but hollow behind and underneath. It was in sideways but only grabbing rock in the middle. Mucci pulled that one out easy later.
Mucci lowered me and after getting some decent gear in a wide section. I set three cams and backed up off a fixed angle after hammering it home from where it was.
With the sky trending darker we picked up and headed to Passion Play where Mucci replaced the upper nasty bolt with the Bird's Hammer.
It was sticking out a half inch on a 3/8" compression bolt. Now it's a bomber Powers 3.5" sleeve anchor reusing the same hole. Solid work Mucci!!!
That night was epic trying to find a place to camp. An old bivy site had been fenced off and a new one found, but it wasn't conducive to a good night's rest. We made alternate arrangements after some grub and a beer.
The next morning dawned beautifully. Coffee, a hike, and a jug to the high point put me at the base of the "A3" section. Having now been used to the rock the day went well I think, but again slowness was an attribute to emulate. Thorough and contemplative placement of the pieces. An offset nut here, a hybrid there, a couple more fixed pins and continued copious use of Yates Screamers. Quantity does have a quality all it's own. It's called mental security. But who knows, the whole mid section of flake could have levered off with the right amount of pin use. Who knows?
And that's the point. This ain't granite....
We switched to Mucci's hammer this day as the hammer head had slipped the day before from using it on the bolt. Care being the better part of preservation, we opted to use it also so that it wouldn't be so heavy to hit pins in. You won't believe how heavy it is and the longer shaft...well let's just say this is a 'manly' tool and maybe my britches ain't big enough. That's ok, though.
One of the criterias of the day was to have fun. And we were, if a bit on the twisted antiquarian side.
A good shot of the crack... you decide, but think about it...
A really nice sinker I got in...
After getting thru this section, I fixed off the lead line on the anchor, utilizing the crack as a back up, as the rock around the loadstone was not entirely solid.
Mucci in action pulling the gear...
Note the shadows at this point. Again, with late start hike and gearing up and moving slow the rest of the pitch took me most of the afternoon. Each piece an exacting science in geology and physics. Pressure and time reflected in gear.
So was it A3? Hell yeah, I'm checking that off in the book. But did I make a lot of what i thought were good Pinnacles placement, yep, way more than I would have thought. It's steep and fearsome for me, and the uninitiated to Pinnacles rock AND uninitiated to aid probably shouldn't start on this one.
We only made it to the first belay in this pic, but it was a superb experience.
Pinnacles rarely if ever is a let down with sunsets like this...
There's more to the tale. Minutiae and meaning. Absurd laughter filling the air over the palabras floating up from well meaning parents below telling their young ones to stay off the rocks and out of the caves. But I can add that later. There a more pics too, but how much can a person take of choss?
Well, we're going back up so Mucci can play on the thin cracks up on the 2nd pitch...
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Dec 21, 2009 - 08:31am PT
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Looks positively chossalicious.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2009 - 08:48am PT
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awaiting with bait breath,
So the mighty hammer has passed your way....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 21, 2009 - 09:11am PT
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Another hunt for the prehistoric women begins.......
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Dec 21, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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Part deux
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Dec 21, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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There is no 12-step program for "chossaholics" that I know of.
You just have to go get the choss-fix.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Dec 21, 2009 - 10:51am PT
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Because it's there has always been a good enough reason.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Dec 21, 2009 - 11:43am PT
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I heard my west side bivy site has been poached...How it go?
kev
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 21, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Nice start Munge!
I did get the feeling we had the bird with us.
We are gonna have to get that mojo back for part two!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 21, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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Go for it Josh!! Steve and I took one look at it about 25 years ago and said Forget It. Call me with all the juicy details.
lars
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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added more above
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Dec 21, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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Nice trip report (so far). Premeditated is a very serious route. The whole Bridwell's hammer thing is a great concept. Bumping this up so you'll hurry up with the rest.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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man oh man, the pressure for TRs is brutal around here.
will work on it this evening, for now another image...
contemplating the gear
Machete Ridge in the background
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Dec 21, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
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Less chit chat more tap tap ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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hahaha
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T Moses
Big Wall climber
Paso Robles
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Dec 22, 2009 - 02:38am PT
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The suspense is killing me! MORE, please!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 22, 2009 - 02:55am PT
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They're a hard crowd to please, Mungeman. I tell ya, ya pore yore hart oot ovver eh TR, en itt fallls of Page Uno toot sweet!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Dec 22, 2009 - 03:42am PT
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Props . Looks crazy out there .
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 04:17am PT
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thx, just finished adding in the core of the rest in a bit of a hurry in the original post.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 22, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
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This one is shaping up nicely Munge!
Big props for sending that Friable Fissure! Munge was in the "Mudzone" complete with laughter and snickering that was barely heard at the belay, a true sign of a man on a mission.
Hard to rate a crack like that, compared to anything I've done in the Valley. Yeah there were some "Good" Placements for pinnacles but a few ledges and bulges to avoid if one were to "descend Rapidly" If you know what I mean.
A3 at pinnacles has it's own special shrine, one that few have mettled with.
Now we got the second half of the business, the all time pinnacles nailing pitch! HAAA!
Lotsa Iron coming up for that pitch!
Munge- let's bring back that super psych for P2!
Mucci
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 22, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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that's really disturbing.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Dec 22, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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Wow =:-O
Dumb question: I recall having seen 'lodestone' notations in a few Pinnacles topos. Does this indicate a big knobby jug, or naturally magnetized rock ?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
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klk, I have more vid too. I laughed out loud. :)
Rob, lodestone is just an embedded or attached cobblestone. It can be of varying size. No magnetism implied. :)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 22, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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Actually, many years ago I named the route Lodestone (on the Monolith) after the big stone you are heading for at the lip of the headwall.
I chose the name because of the magnetic definition - you are definitely attracted to that stone as you grab the tinies below it.
But since then I think many people didn't realize it meant a magnetic stone, and people have used the term to mean any large imbedded stone in the Pinnacles breccia.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 22, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Great photos and TR - more please.
John Barbella and I did Premeditated in the mid-80's. I don't have much recollection of the route other than the typical chunky, chossy, incipient cracksand thin nailing - especially on the second pitch, which I recall being pretty tricky.
I can't wait to see a TR on the rest of the route.
Good luck and have fun!!!!
Paul
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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I stand corrected, as I probably heard the 'lodestone' term from mtnyoung.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Hey Paul! Thx!
Yeah, there is a great picture of Barbella in your guidebook. It shows a lot of placements in the crack as well. I'm guessing you lead the first pitch. Did you guys ever end up doing more than the 2 pitches described in mtnyoung's book (which may have been 3 pitches as described in the 74 Richard's guide).
Really kind of looking forward to getting up there with Mucci man again.
some more pic...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Mucci getting ready to set up the rap.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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The entire formation for those that aren't familiar with it already...
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 22, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Thx! 'always thought about doing that nasty looking thing...however, Todd Vogel embellished his adventure in a way that I placed it on the back burner...waiting for part two!
 ec
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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do tell ec!!
in the meantime, here is some vid shot while trying to avoid the rock bombs that would fall regularly on Mucci.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XSa7-B9Sc4
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Dec 22, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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looks about 5.9ish...
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Dec 22, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
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Youguysarenuts!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 22, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Forgot about that photo of Barbella, and - I guess I was wrong. It must have been the early 80's then when we did Premeditated. I thought we did the whole thing, but then again I don't recall anything beyond the first two pitches, so maybe....
That's not saying much though - sometimes I can't remember the route or moves I did an hour ago, let alone almost 30 years ago.
Have fun!!
Paul
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Dec 22, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
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Well done, guys!!!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 22, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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Munge... so this thing is turning into a Grade V
classic TR man, lots of effort and stuff on words and stuff
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 22, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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I'm feeling slightly nauseous looking at the pictures.
ec; Todd Vogel was the only friend I had that was nutty enough to help me finish Berserkers' Route.
lars
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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Slater - Grade VI if we're lucky!!
Seriously contemplated bringing ledges out.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 22, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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I've often wondered what it'd be like to be a real climber. (Really, no sarcasm here.)
Thanks for offering up a taste.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Nate, thx for the kind words, but I too would like to know what it's like to be a real climber (in all seriousness).
Little by little I learn some more things, maybe one day.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
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Dec 22, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
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Yeah, baby. Choss-frickin'-tastic.
Mucci & Munge, hangin' it out there.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 22, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Munge-
Stick with Mucci and he'll show you what real drinking is all about. The guy's a gourmet chef to boot. The climbing will take care of itself. Adrenaline is a sure cure for a hangover.
Looking forward to the next post!!!
lj
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 22, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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Nice!!!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 22, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
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Hate to break it to you ladies but as soon as you hop on the sharp end you're for real.
Take a long one and bounce a few times and you'll feel how real it is.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 23, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Been there, done that.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 01:10am PT
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werd to that Lars!
On the food front, I think I may have converted him to SuperTaqueria though.
once you go with real manteca, you never go back!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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5.9 eh Lamb? heal up and you can give er a go
heh
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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starting the coffee off right
to get on this...
Mucci, was this the one that came out easiest?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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baty coda?
quads on gold camalots recommended...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 23, 2009 - 03:30am PT
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OH Slater...It's real for sure! Don't think I have run into a route on this level. Gotta bring the A game for the choss.
So bad it's good.
Whoop,
Munge that pin came out pretty easy, as well as the stone it was slammed against.
Mucci
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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werd
I bet I have your sling unless you grabbed it in the gear sort?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 24, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Excellent;.....I'm sure Jim will be psyched to here this;....job well done.....next?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 24, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Great TR and a job well done guys!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
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So as far as I heard, Jim had no recollection of the route, but maybe the pics will refresh his memory.
The second pitch shown above me and to the left, as you can see, just doesn't have a whole lot of rock to go with.
I would really like to hear of any other ascents. I was hoping the TR would bring out the mud rats.
Paul do you know anyone else that has done this?
Jim Bridwell, Craig Little FA 1965
Barbella-Gagner ascent 1983 or earlier
Feral Rat, mtnyoung ascent 200?
Mucci and Munge 2009 p1/2010 p2?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Dec 27, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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It's HAPPENING in Soledad
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Dec 28, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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I'm really not aware of any other ascents.
As you know, this type of climbing (like the Fisher Towers) is an acquired taste that not many "acquire"!!!
After moving back to Boulder almost 4 years ago I tried to get an old mud partner psyched for choss climbing in the Fishers - his response: "Haven't you grown out of that yet?" My response - "Hell no!!!"
Paul
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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awesome Paul!!
Fischers: Adventures in Every Placement
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Part 2 coming soon.
Mucci
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Doh, I'm an idiot. EC Joe says Todd Vogel did it as well.
Add Cobble D to that list too, and whoever posted on mtn project.
Veritable highway of crap rock.
Kev did it damn near clean. I can't recall the specifics. Will have to look for his TR.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Jan 26, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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Gnarly
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 24, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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Choss-tastic bump
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| Messages 1 - 62 of total 62 in this topic |
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