The Big Chill Article by Peter Mayfeild... Hard Core!!

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Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 20, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
A great article by Maysho from Rock & Ice 1988. Hard, STEEP stuff being done 21 years ago!






neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 20, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
hey there, say, ihateplastice... wow, what a neat thing to see, first off, here on suppertopo!

great stuff about peter.... :)
always happy to learn more about ol' peter!!




small note:
oh my, and sayyyyyy, hankster, i HAVE been emailing you, and got to reply... say, if you are still around... please email me... :O

Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Dec 20, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
Way cool! Thanks for posting that, Simon! I remember that article – really neat photos. Those photos ended up on my wall, along with hundreds of other climbing photos to look at and dream… What a cool looking route!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 20, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
Whoa, burly!
ec

climber
ca
Dec 20, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
I mde the images a tad larger so hopefully they are easier to read. I guess I could improve the scan resolution but I am a lazy arse.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Dec 20, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
Wow, thanks so much for scanning that in, IHP! Nice of you to add the context for the inflammatory quote that you pulled out of there last week!

Its been a long time since I read that piece, took me right back, my cute little 4 year old son is now 27! We are all surprised that the route has not become more popular, though I guess none of the nailing routes on Half Dome really are. At the time we thought we had done the best aid climb on earth!

Thanks again!

Peter
fosburg

climber
Dec 20, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
That is a great route! I think Troy Johnson and I did the second ascent a year after it went up. That part of Half Dome feels so exposed.
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
Steve and I were talking about this climb a couple of weeks ago. He said Bridwell pushed him to the hardest nailing he had ever done. In Steve's words Bridwell said, "Steve this is your chance for mediocrity or greatness."
Bosque chose the latter. I admire these deeds I can only dream of.

Bosque still has it in him!!!

Thanks for posting up and Peter all the best.

LJ
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Dec 20, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 20, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
and he still looks younger now, than I did, back then....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
Dec 20, 2009 - 11:17pm PT
So Peter, what's the source of the route name?

chris v

climber
Dec 20, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
Aaron Martin and I climbed that route too (May 2002). So good! Brado (Peter's son) was there supporting us the whole time. The Chill was a truly unforgettable experience. And I couldn't have asked for a better partner.

I think it was named after the movie. Great movie.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Dec 21, 2009 - 10:35am PT
To some these issues are black and white, to us it was a matter of degrees of taste, skill, artistry. Some people with drills and chisels have really fukked things up. We never heard that feedback from early ascents of ZM, Big Chill, or Aurora. Problem is, what can be a few taps here and there on a first ascent, does seem to give license to subsequent parties to wield a heavier hand, so the FA's subtle touch becomes the chop job, or pegboard.

Peter
Double D

climber
Dec 21, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
Great article Peter.
Thanks for scanning and posting as well.

Happy Solstace to all!
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
For the record... I want to be VERY CLEAR that this thread and the other thread with an excerpt from the article were NOT started because I wanted to point a finger or criticize.

This is a fine article about a burly route on a steep-arse wall done way back when by a rock star team.
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Dec 21, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Yeah, I have dutifully deleted my post. It wasn't intended to illicit some sort of explanation.

Mucho respect.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 22, 2009 - 12:28am PT
So Peter - not Bridwell - invented the Casual Rating System? And what of DFU?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 10, 2010 - 03:38am PT
Bump for the right side!

Man, What a team.

Mucci
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 10, 2010 - 03:48am PT
Krikers, I musta missed this one the first time around. Great article. Great route(I imagine).Great dude(Mayflower Power).Keep on keeping on.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 28 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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