Keeler Needle: Crimson Wall 5.12 A3

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kevsteele

climber

Santa Barbara, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 2, 2005 - 06:24pm PT

Cool to see Keeler back in the posts. We did an FA on that great red rock in '91: The Crimson Wall. It went directly up the center of the face for ten pitches. Crux was 5.12. Kevin Brown, Mike Carville and myself then headed left to join the Harding as the upper headwall had to wait until the following year. In '92 Kevin and Mike finished it off, straight up at 5.12d with an A3 pitch. Total of 16 pitches.

None of the guidebooks have really got it right, although the descriptions are OK and vague enough, the lines drawn on photos are just wrong.

Below is a scan from the Alpine Journal ('92) where I've added the line. If any are interested I can post the topos.

Best,
Kevin Steele

kevsteele

climber

Santa Barbara, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2005 - 06:26pm PT

Here's the topo:

Mike.

climber

Oct 2, 2005 - 06:31pm PT

Thanks for posting. Looks like one fine line; spent some time gawking at Keeler this year. Incredible feat at that altitude (okay, any altitude). Good reading material for me...

mtwoodsonguide

Big Wall climber

San Diego

Oct 7, 2005 - 08:14pm PT

This explains the bolts very close to cracks that McNeely saw when he put up Austrolipethecus VI A3+ 5.9. The upper half of The Lowe Route, McNeely's route and your route all share pitches or are in close proximation up there.
Nice work, you should try to talk to those guys and try to figure out whats what.

M Carville

Trad climber

Nevada City, CA

Jun 23, 2010 - 09:15pm PT

The topo drawn by KB is very good. A couple things to keep in mind: Pitch 8 is .12- and pitch 12 is closer to .12b rather than .12c/d. We also retro bolted several of the pitches after leading. It didn't deem safe to leave long run outs on friable rock. A couple of the pitches would benefit from a bolt to here and there. We hope to get back up there in 2010 or 2011. I will send word via this forum when we do. Otherwise, enjoy the Crimson Wall – it’s a great climb. Cheers, M

Jingy

Social climber

Nowhere

Jun 23, 2010 - 09:19pm PT

Really cool looking wall...

go for it!!

Port

Trad climber

San Diego

Dec 9, 2010 - 10:57pm PT

Looks like the topo is gone, anyone know where it might be?.... I'd love to take a look at it.

edit: Just found it.

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/crimson_wall_topo.jpg

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