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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 15, 2009 - 02:16am PT
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Who's done it? Good?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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jeeez,
makes pinnacles look solid,
can you pronounce exfoliate witout a grimace?
Go For It!
Tiger Woods style, yeah!
take some hookers with you.
for aids climbing.
use the hookers for aids,
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:27am PT
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All I can say for certainty is I scoped that in 1977 and soloed up a two pitches. Always planned to return but never did. I have slides of the adventure SOMEWHERE... It looked unbelievable to me at the time. Perhaps it got done (I am sure it must have) but I never learned what route it became (if indeed it did...)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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Hey Plastic - find those slides, man, it'd be great to see them. I couldn't pin this line down in Reid's '94. Must have been done, but what is it? Could it be something called 'Straight In'? Quien sabe.
Sprock, what are you smoking? The rock up there is f'ing incredibly good.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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hey there say... very interesting share... :)
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:50am PT
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Is this thin line that me coz did for the first ascent.
There's a pitch up higher that has a death run out.
I'm glad it was coz's lead not mine ......
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2009 - 03:25am PT
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Werner... about what year was that? It sure is a nice line from below!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 15, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Thin Line 1986 5.11c R Cos and Werner.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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That crack was .11? No wonder I did it on aid back then!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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The crack in the above photo is the first pitch.
The 5.11c pitch is up higher on the route. If you fall at the 5.11c pitch crux, you hit the belay ledge.
You all know what happens after that ....
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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The topo shows that pitch as .11b with more .11 up above. Not at all doubting you, Werner... all I know is it is a lot easier in aiders!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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There's a topo?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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That looks SOOO good! To cold and prolly icey over there right now for me...Plus you mumbled .11
kev
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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Meyers & Reid 1987 pg.91.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Thin Line, there it is in Reid '94, pg 91. "5.11c poor pro" off the ledge up high.
But Werner it looks like in the topo at least your line starts in the corner, and the first pitch goes at .11b. Does that mean that the line immediately to the right in Reid (Straight In, 5.10a, 1 pitch) is the crack that splits the face in my picture. It looks more 5.10 than 5.11, and it looks like a whole lot of fun, and obscure to boot.
What about Fool's Gold, 6 pitch .10a to the right of Gold Wall? Anyone done it?
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Now THAT makes sense! Except... my guide (Reid 87) shows that crack (which is a beauty!) being a one-pitch route. I did two pitches, albeit not 150' long but longer than what the topo shows. How does Straight In show up in the more modern version of Reid?
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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As I remember we started the route on Straight In and not that 5.11 pitch in the corner on the first pitch as shown in the guide book.
I like to take the path of least resistance ....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 15, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
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You all know what happens after that .... Werner gets some overtime to clean up the mess?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
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It would be pretty awesome to be awesome like that. So many ways to live life, that's not the choice I made. But it's great to hear stories about it and imagine for just a few minutes!
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Feb 14, 2014 - 11:22pm PT
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Great story Coz. And thank you Werner for being the spark.
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