Section 20--Lake Tahoe Beta?

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caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2005 - 03:50pm PT

Has anyone done this climb about eagle creek canyon?

I've got the basic info in the Carville guide, but first hand beta would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Bilbo

Trad climber

Truckee

Sep 29, 2005 - 05:31pm PT

Attempted to climb this last year, I'm pretty sure we missed the first 1 or 2 pitches.
We hiked up to the obvious West gulley to the base area. You'll run into a bushy slab at the end of the trail, it looked 4th class, but turned to 5th. Anyhow we climbed this, 2 pitches up put us on top of some arched rocks. (I think the actual start is more up the gully, we should have hiked further??) This slab has a tree half way up with some rap slings.
From the top of that you will be staring at a wide crack with a small roof about 30'. We climbed this, it was fun 5.8ish p3.
P4 Went up a crack system in a long pitch 150'?
This put us on a ledge where you see a splitter crack off to your right going up into a killer easy corner p5 ( I think this is really P3 of S 20??)
We did another few pitches of fun and adventurous climbing to the summit. I left my brand new shoes up there on the descent, if you find them e-mail me please.
The descent was epic bush-whak from hell. We should have dropped down sooner into a canyon (I think). Wear long pants!
I want to go back and find the real route, but overall it is all climbable and a sh#t load of fun if you like adventures.

seamus mcshane

climber

Sep 29, 2005 - 07:00pm PT

Prepare to "manzanita surf" on the descent.

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Sep 29, 2005 - 07:02pm PT

Did the route about 18yrs+- ago. Just keep walking up ,up and around until you get to the Gulley chimney pitch, way chossy but the second pitch up this knobby headwall is stellar. A 5.7 version of candyland from there you wander around again looking for something fun to throw yourself at, and again and again, the top has some good and commiting rock, but there is a lot of wandering around. Are you familar with the area? ie. have you done anything on Eagle point buttress the routes are more continous but shorter, a general layout of the land up there will make the descent easier.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 07:02pm PT

A friend of mine has taken to calling manzanita 'the devil's pubic hair.'

Some nice imagery.

seamus, no beta to add? Sounds like you've done it.

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 07:04pm PT

Mark,

Haven't done much in the area, just some 90' wall years ago, and some Mayhem cove action this summer. But I likes me a good adventure climb.

mark miller

Social climber

Reno

Sep 29, 2005 - 07:15pm PT

I might suggest doing something on Eagle Lake buttress and scope out behind you the supposed section 20 route, the hike in is a bit longer then you might think and it's easier to see the possible route from the west with the afternoon sun on it and you can check out the descent also. Eagle Lake buttress is a much cleaner adventure climb then section 20. On the buttress I've done the East ridge 5.7 (first pitch sandbagged real stiff 5.8) orange sunshine5.9 and orange book 5.8 and I think wind tree5.9 all highly recommended, great location killer views, usually no crowds and cool rock. section 20 is good practice for North ridge of Lone pine peak, but there is a lot of wandering between sections of climbing.

DavisGunkie

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Sep 29, 2005 - 07:54pm PT

hey Dave, you have a partner for these or just thinking out loud?

mike

climber

tahoe city, ca.

Sep 29, 2005 - 11:31pm PT

I think I did part of Mark's and part of Bilbo's. definately wear pants and DON'T wear Tevas.

prongo

Trad climber

east side kid

Sep 29, 2005 - 11:54pm PT

I did section 20 2 years ago and agree with others had to say about it. total adventure climb bring long pants. we had to kind of look for sections to climb otherwise could of hiked the whole thing
the top hundred feet has some stellar cracks really beautiful leave yourself a few hours at the top to play. good trundleing but make sure no one is on route. Eagle lake buttressis much better climbing wind tree,the A line, orange sunshine could do all 3 in a long day all great climbing

dodangler

Trad climber

truckee

Sep 30, 2005 - 02:07pm PT

While you are up there do All American Finger Crack, 5.7 i think.

Killer K

Boulder climber

Sacramento, CA

Apr 25, 2015 - 01:27pm PT

Bilbo. I had the exact same experience. Ended up near a formation that looked exactly like a cat's head. Figured we were about a 1/4 mi off route.

Charlie D.

Trad climber

Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra

Apr 25, 2015 - 01:51pm PT

Did it way back in time and simply remember it as a great day in the mountains. The route finding and the seeking of better rock and lines was half the fun, reaching the ridge a golden eagle flew off from a spire. We exited down to the lakes behind and had a wonderful hike back out. I do remember a couple of great pitches, all in all adventure climbing.....the less beta the better, all we had was a written description. Such fond memories with my old friend Tim Heydorff, hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

Charlie D.