July 6, 1975. Back of half dome by Hidden Lake on the way back to civilization. Depressed as hell; had spent several days with John Bragg putting up Call of the Wild, checking out the entire back of Half Dome and escaping the Fourth of July crowds. This is the first time this image has been seen. 27 years old.
OK Jaybro inspired me with his candid photos. Brace yourselves....
Me and my partner of 20 years Angus, somewhere up on Arrowhead Arete
OK that was mild.
Now here is one from the first attempt on Atlantis Wall with Brutus
Again, mild despite the unfortunate sunglasses haha.
BTW, looking for these photos I came across the cache of photos from that first attempt. Will post elsewhere later...
Now to the goods:
See I had stitches in my balls. Seriously. And they stuck out some... and would occasionally catch in my underwear and TWANG!!!111 like a guitar string.
So I had some medication with me, to take the edge off. OK I had LOTS of medication with me... and they DID take the edge off. These next ones are from the bivy spot we created 2 pitches up out of the water, as Advanced Basecamp.
Ok this is 3 beers, one vike and a bowl of herbal essence into the evening festivities...
Like my Baby Blues?
There was a nesting pair of falcons on that cliff. They checked us out every morning and every evening we were up there. Apparently one of them didn't care for me screwing around on the cliff. This is right before it sh#t on my head!
Pissed off and scared after rapping off from the top of a tower FA (solo)in a frigging lightning storm...chopped lead line...no time to clean all of my gear (lots)...just unclipped the biners and kept going. The real bitcher was that I was also out of beer.
I don't know why, but I felt compelled to throw in a 'real' self-portrait from the silliness earlier...
Maybe it was the fact that if Nita was going to dig that deep into the mirror I suppose I could too.
Self portait after failed attempt on Fall (1976) ascent of Chimney Rock (peeking out on left), San Juan Mountains. Unexpected snowstorm and chossy dubious rock thwarted attempt. L to R - Jon Ake - Scott Mossman (me) - Jack Panek.
Yep Martin-D18 1975
That case is the original 1 that came with the guitar.
I have another Martin here in Delhi (Carlton case though) so I don't have to lug it back and forth (see United thread:-),
And yes Eastside for climbing, fishing, rambling, soaking, sleeping, wandering, skiing, swimming...and on and on... it's the best.
Heaven here on earth.
Festus...any brew in the Canyon is a good brew...
Not an oiler a Victory ship, the Lane Victory to be precise.
Jess sayin' as them boyz would be pissed bein' called a greasy oiler.
Victory ships were the big bros of the better known Liberty ships.
who are we? do you ever see a reflection of your self and wonder?
who is that gente?
you see a tear that wasn't supposed to be there.
or wonder that's clawing at the back of yer eyeballs.
or supression...... caged tiger syndrome. that's what i see nowadays.
my hope, has been minimized. in form at least. somehow,
its supreme vastness has compressed into a moment that i can hold.
but when i do it burns my paw. i hold it anyway cause those pains
sometimes need some discipline. im boss. yes.
who am i? how does this skin shell contain me? as i know me. its spacially impossible. im bigger than eternity. yet the void i fill is 5'-7" tall, 135 pounds. size 40 paw. no f*#king way i fit into that mold.
my mind and dreams all stuffed in there? their's density... not quantifiable.
i squeeze each moment not with my hands, but with my liason. she is my dreams, and she attacks and manages and i just embody her.
my liason. my dreams.
she is singular and plural all the same because her numbers don't fit together... she's not between nothing and infinity... i and her.. we are beyond eternity... we are actually re-writing that scipt... eternity.. and you, yerself casts in that movie?
don't worry.. i, well, we will give you your due part.... am i god? maybe... stay tuned.
broken heart and dormant dreams, i still limp along?
I kept telling the PA that she was screwing the pin into my temple, that the bone was higher up. She kept telling me that I needed to know the difference between pressure and pain. Right then the blood started squirting out, just as the Chief of Neurosurgery walked into the room to see how things were going. I pulled out my pocket camera after they made the adjustment and set the pin where it needed to be.
I'm posting this shot because it captures the intensity of a huge event in my life, not to reflect poorly on UCLA. The Doctors, staff and facilities there are amazing. During the course of my treatment there I have met some of the most brilliant people ever, and they really push the envelope in terms of skills and research.
Without them I would be crippled today, likely dead. Instead I am working my way back up through the grades. Those Josh 5.8's and 5.9's are feeling pretty doable and I'm better every time out now. Of course I know from experience there is a big plateau waiting for me... Pushing through that'll be a test. I see some quality time at Stoney Point in my future, but that's for another thread. First that place has to dry out.
It was a 72 hour EEG. The purpose was to see if I still needed to take anti-seizure meds. I'm very happy to report I successfully weaned off the meds one year ago and have had no seizure activity since.
That's Beluga point, if you were to swivel the cameara to the right, you'd see the point. From the top of the climb, if you look East up Turnagain arm you'll see Windy Corner, which is the point at the lower right of this pic.
Looking across the arm towards the town of Hope.
For those times where I just have to get out of the office for a mid-day meditation of spring time sunbathing (when the sun has warmed up the rocks enough) it just can't be beat. I took the pics a couple years back, when there were wildfires in Russia which accounts for the hazy air.
Though I have taken to hiking around flat-top lately during lunch, sad to say I've been here almost 13 years before hiking in that area and I didn't realize how amazing the views are.
Fishhook is cool. Has its highlights....pitches 1 (5.9 cracks) and 5 (easy but nice and exposed) were righteous! We bivied over the Russell-Whitney col rather than bivy at Iceberg (various ideal reasons: close to the route in the morning, less annoying people pooping nearby, THE VIEW!!). Gotta go back and do Mithral Dihedral.
On the approach trail to Longstack Precipice. I first put up routes here in 1978 while skipping classes from Kingswood HS with Booker Bense and Rob Pratt; the cliff now boasts over 50 climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.11+.
Almost the last picture ever taken of my feet. I was on a solo ski trip
from Stehekin down the range on the east side of Lake Chelan. A half hour after this
shot I got lanched good. It took me 45 minutes to find my missing ski and
I spent another 15 looking for my missing pole to no avail. It was a bitch
skiing with a big pack and only one pole. Maybe a Polak could do it.
I never claimed I was smart!