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Bad Climber
climber
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Dec 10, 2009 - 11:04am PT
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First, start with Occam's Razor and slice that mess to bits. Yeah, it may work, but holy freakin' cluster nutz, Batman, you expect to rig that each and every belay, pitch after pitch? Go ahead and try to apply that in the real world. The rest of us will be up and off our Grade V's while you're still fiddling with cord on pitch two.
Besides a theoretical game, have you, as one posted mentioned, climbed many pitches and set many anchors? Listen to Werner. He climbs more in a month than most of us do in a decade. Experience matters--a lot. John Long has a lot of that, too.
BAd
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Dec 10, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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He's also the one that's:
... looking for a Hewbolt Double so he can have an autolocking device for two ropes.
... backs up his harness with a webbing swami for redundancy.
I can't wait for his next bright idea.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Dec 10, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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anchor threads are awesome. even awesomer with mermaids and nuns.
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Dec 10, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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kinda like the people who keep coming up with a better way to tie a figure 8
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Dec 10, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
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There's climbing theory, and then there's climbing.
I'm reminded of a comment my old bud Derek made many years ago as we walked into Eldo. during the first annual cleanup. There were many guys hanging on ropes and scrubbing chalk marks off the rock. The array of tools and complexity on display were mind-boggling. Derek looks over the charliefoxtrot in front of us, looks at me and says, "They obviously are not getting enough climbing in."
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Dec 10, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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Once I built a natural anchor using just one Metolius 4' sling and three pieces of gear in a crack.
I created two sliding Xes and overlapped them to create my power point. I thought it was better than using a cordelette because when the sling pulled in any direction, there was no slack and risk of shock loading the anchor, just like a sliding X with two pieces of gear.
Is this anchor sound? Simple, I know, but for my limited experience and gear, it's all I could think of.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Dec 10, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
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SERENE with Timely added is ERNEST
Equalized, Redudant, Non-Extending, Solid, Timely.
Your non-completely serene anchor is extending and not timely. Saying it "performs better" without saying in what way or compared to what doesn't help your cause.
However I applaud your efforts. New ideas don't have the be the new thing everyone starts using, they should just help spark ideas and hopefully lead to more developments and discussion.
KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid. Your anchor fails there and that's why it won't be used with any regularity.
It's best to have simple setups that use non-specialized gear.
I carry pre-tied sliding Xs with limiter knots. As fast or faster than anything else and does a pretty good job being ERNEST.
A small cam or biner or bad bolt could break, I like having the redundancy of a somewhat ERNEST anchor so I use a slidingX on every anchor because it's simple and fast.
For three poor pieces (a situation I've never had to face), I'd go with a sliding W with a short sling and extend to each piece as needed.
I like how this mermaid still has the good parts of a human.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 10, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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Dog ear figure eight.
Anything more is a waste of time.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 10, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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Dog ear figure eight. Anything more is a waste of time.
In the true spirit of Supertopo, I want to start an argument that ignores the value and usefulness of your stupidly-named Dog ear figure eight, and focuses instead on the fact that its rightful name is the Bunny ear figure eight. If you call it the bunny ear figure eight, then it is a terrific belay setup. If you call it the dog ear figure eight then you're stupid and don't know anything about climbing. So there!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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That's not true. It's the wabbit ear knot, tied by wascally wabbits.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 10, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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^^^ YOu bit....
It's a dog's world, still nothing better.
I've heard it called the "Split Tail" which leads to many jokes at the belay.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 10, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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An anchor set by my grandmother, one of the most experienced gardeners on the planet.
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Gene
Social climber
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Dec 10, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
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Guido,
Why knott add another locker for redundancy?
gm
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