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gaillard
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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Hello everyone, I just thought up an anchor and would like some feedback if would be so kind :)
As far as I can tell it is completely redundant for all components (protection, cord, crabs). Also I think it adheres to SERENE without sacrificing dynamic equalization for no extension (of course adherence with SERENE only applies to protection failure, not cord failure etc). Even better than that, it uses minimal gear, or as minimal as it could with the above properties.
There is a slight bit of extension. It is equal to half the distance between the failing protection and the protection attached to the failing protection with the extension limiter strand. But this is half or less (depending on how close the protection is) of what other designs yield.
It is fast to setup because the knots that are not clove hitches can be tied before a climb, and it takes minimal cord. Basically to setup it requires 3 clove hitch adjustments, not long.
The clove hitches are there only to adjust length if you have no runners. Once can forgo the clove hitches to adjust and just extend which ever of the three ends you need to to be faster, since it all equalizes out.
The two and three protection versions are below (3 protection version only needs an additional 2 crabs and 1 small sling) as well as a very bad wrong version. Can anybody spot the deficiency in the wrong version? :D
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
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First Taco post? Really? No really?
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gaillard
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
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What's a taco post?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Looks like macrame to me.
Not to disparage thinking about these things, but how long will that take?
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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Crabs?
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jstan
climber
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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That's right. Crabs. Helps to have a wide group of friends.
Gaillard:
This subject has had more debate on ST than even the subject of motherhood. As you might suppose---that's a lot.
A search on "equalized" should get you way more than you need - or want. Holler if that does not work and one of us will do some work, for a couple of minutes, and pull some links for you.
See what I mean? Here comes some more motherhood. Oiy veh.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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Ricardo Cabeza
Trad climber
Warner, NH
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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OK, I see a lizard, and two mtn goats.
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:53pm PT
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All hail the flying spaghetti monster.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Serene Crab
ps, so is that diagramme up there what is termed a Cluster-f*#k-o-lette? (stole that term from Dingus)
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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What's wrong with a good spotter?
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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I'd rather tie one on with this anchor...
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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It takes at least three of those to be redundant.
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adam d
climber
closer to waves than rock
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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If you're not sure just plug another one in!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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What a cluster fukk.
Build anchor with rope, one locker (3 if ya got bolts), boom done.
[total elapsed time, 15sec.]
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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Why is it that the only time I've ever run anchors (lack of anchors) so sketch that dynamic equalization was desirable they never lined up in neat rows like that?
Does that only happen to me?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
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My head just exploded trying to comprehend that diagram.
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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At least hes working on paper first eh?
Im feeling kinda itchy too.Ick.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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Even better than that, it uses minimal gear, or as minimal as it could with the above properties.
Are you sure?
Looks like a nightmare ....
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gaillard
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
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Couple edits about speed
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SuperTopo on the Web
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