Moments of Crisis Michael Borghoff Summit 1963

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 27, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
An interesting essay about sorting out the harsh and nasty aspects of climbing by the father of our own MisterE. From Summit July/August 1963.



Pate

Trad climber
The Lost Highway
Nov 28, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
This thing sinks to page 3 after being posted by Steve with NO POSTS from anyone?

can you folks read?

bump.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 29, 2009 - 10:06am PT
hey there, say... here's a bump... hope for some more folks to show... :)
cintune

climber
the Moon and Antarctica
Nov 29, 2009 - 10:43am PT
Dab.
Gobee

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
Thanks Steve for all your cool mag articles!
To be in the now, and open to your choices and going with one, adjusting, staying focused, movement, rational, and commitment, how cool is climbing! And all this with strength, flexibility, endurance, power, and a pump!


If you want to once a week, on some climbs you can train for these moments, where your at the moment of crisis, to push your own boundary even on sport routes, by never grabbing gear, saying take, go tell you blow, the more you do that pumped out of your mind the more you can do!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
MisterE Bump!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 30, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
Good read.
Z
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Dec 1, 2009 - 12:41am PT
it hurts my eyes to strain for that.... let me try downloading it and blowing it up...
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Dec 1, 2009 - 01:20am PT
Thanks, Steve - much appreciated. I was one year old when he wrote this...

Dad always could wax poetic with a robust splash of the aesthetic and spiritual. Always leaving you wondering about references you MUST look up, and told with one foot firmly anchored in personal adventure and experience.

Hope you don't mind I cleaned the pages up a little for easier reading:





Dad:

Michael Borghoff
Michael Borghoff
Credit: Glen Denny

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2009 - 11:26am PT
It is an extraordinary essay. Most of us don't look at the big picture when pondering the value of the climbing experience. Usually some disaster or calamity forces this kind of self examination rather than measured contemplation. I really like the lack of desperation in the tone of the piece as it clearly comes from a calm center and is really a meditation.

Would you care to share anything else that your talented father has written about climbing or life at large? He is, as you say, a very gifted writer. First time reading this one?

Cheers
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Dec 1, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
I have always loved the Borghoff poems in Roper's Guide. I am still effected by the images. What a romantic!!

Here, on this rock, the climber finds his Mecca: the compact, interlocking simplicity of slab on slab, shard and flake and crack and hold; the burning left and right of granite infinity; his essential: the down-reflected dome of Augustís sun, lips parched and cotton-flecked; the ting-ting of well driven steel or the hollow thump of exfoliation slab; the faraway spice scent of a bay tree . . .and most splendid of all, the huddled summer bivouac. . . .

- Mike Borghoff, 1959

And of course -

Look well about you, wanderer! There is but one Yosemite on the face of the earth, and through the myriad moods, the shifting cyclic patterns, will always sound this, your need: simple joy and certitude, the face of life itself.
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
Dec 1, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
Yes, that was ther first time I had read that one.

He submitted a piece to Summit that was never published, but Steve Roper sent me a copy. It was a tale of a mad rush from Yosemite to Wyoming with Jim Donini, among others, but it is unavailable for sharing. He also wrote a great poem about Yggdrasil the Tree of Life, that I really liked, I am not sure if I have a copy still. I'll see what I can find.

Thanks for the addition Fuzzywuzzy - those were new to me as well.

MB on cover of Summit
MB on cover of Summit
Credit: Steve Roper
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 11:20am PT
Bump for Bong-bongs and Salamanders!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
And here they are! From Summit June 1962.







donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 12, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
Mr. E,
The trip from Yosemite to the Tetons with your dad and Craig Shantholtzer was a WILD RIDE that would put Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas to shame.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jun 12, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
Mike once agreed to critique my poetry (pathetic) if I would instruct him in the art of bouldering. Problem was, he laughed so hard he couldn't stay on the rock. So I agreed not to read to him as he toiled on Cutfinger Boulder. I think he was on leave at the time from some sort of special forces or ranger unit, and had a nice looking 1911 .45 that I admired.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
Jun 12, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
My first experience with trying to climb El Capitan was with Mike Borghoff. It would have been the third ascent of The Nose, but we didn't get very far...
MisterE

Social climber
Jun 12, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
^^Tom - nice! Here's a Glen Denny picture (from the web) that may have served as a partial inspiration to your effort? My left arm, Dad in center looking at the rack for the second ascent of the nose, and Mom on his right, behind Roper. You Know the other players...



Thanks for the bump, Steve - visited the Batso Museum yesterday with Radical and F10, and talked quite a while with Mr. Perryberry(?) - he knew Dad as well.

We all got Semper Farcissimus shirts on our departure. Schwag! :)


Where's those pictures, F10!?! ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2010 - 11:07am PT
Roger Derryberry is on the inside of Batso looking out!
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Jun 13, 2010 - 11:45am PT
Here ya go Eric,

Radical and MisterE visiting Harding Memorial, went inside and got a tour by Roger Derryberry, thanks

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