Ama Dablam 1979-Tom Frost, DR & Jeff Lowe

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 54 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Dec 12, 2009 - 05:53am PT
Thanks; it's an honour to show them and get comments from you guys!

Steve: No, I do not recall when it was closed. Maybe Jello would know: The 1979 was the first expedition since the 1961, where Bishop and Hillary et al fell into bad standing due to their slightly illegal climb. As it was climbed regular after the Frost-Lowe et al ascent, maybe it was before 79?

When I write that ours was the last chance to be alone, only means that after 1988 Ama D became one of the most popular peaks for guided expeditions, knitted into an amour of fixed ropes. So it goes ...

**

With a slight drift I can mention that one hour ago I said farewell to wellknown climbing sherpas Pertemba Sherpa (of SWF-Everest fame) and multi-multi everester (and recently Ama D) Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who stayed in my flat during the Summiteers Summit here in Copenhagen. Nice guys, lots of stories!

Will put up a climbing related COP15-thread soon...
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Feb 17, 2011 - 08:09am PT
- another selfish bump...!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:00am PT






SWEET!!!!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 17, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
ASB-"another selfish bump" is fine with me as I missed this before and it is a classic. Sweet as..............
Barbarian

Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
Apr 13, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
Bumping this agin for great content.

BTW - Is there anypone else here who wishes we could get Tom Frost to get on SuperTopo and tell us some storiies? He's a great guy, super photographer, and gear designer extaordinaire!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
Tom isn't likely to post here as he really isn't a computer entertained kind of guy. I can easily get questions answered for you as I am currently his biographer and talk with him on the phone several times a week.

If you want to ask him questions about his experiences in person then come to the gathering in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the FA of the Salathe Wall happening in Yosemite Valley On October 22.

Tom makes himself available to everyone at these special events. Since he stopped doing slideshows at the Lodge this is your golden opportunity to get a hit of the man if you desire to do so. He is totally service oriented in his personal philosophy and isn't inclined to leave any gathering before all questions are answered.
Ain't no flatlander

climber
May 11, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
Ask Tom to tell you the story behind his photo of Harlin on the Aiguille Du Fou in '63. Whose idea was it for Harlin to "walk the plank?" Still one of my favorite alpine photos.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
Will do.
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
May 11, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Wow!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Little known fact- Tom Frost engineered the Hummingbird tools and the Footfangs working with Greg and Jeff.
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
May 11, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
that's incredibly cool. I've fantasized about climbing the West Face in winter.



guess I'll get to it out after my Cerro Torre-Fitzroy mega-enchainment
Johnny K.

climber
Southern,California
May 12, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
Such crisp history,delightful to read!Thanks!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 11:37am PT
How cool must it have been for Jeff's father, Ralph, to get to see his son climb and lead so brilliantly! This was a family affair. Once Tom figured out that the 5K that he was going to make on the expedition was enough to cover his family's expenses, he invited them along and encouraged the rest of the expedition to do the same. The atmosphere which resulted was unique for an expedition and made the experience even richer for the participants.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 13, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
This amazing thread is thoroughly Groovy.
I will return to this many times.
There are no shameful bumps of this thread.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
May 13, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
Dear lord, save us from wow really?
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
May 13, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
The family atmosphere added so much; really it became the defining tone of basecamp and beyond. This is the only trip I've been on that had the classic Himalayan expedition form, but it felt entirely different from all the accounts you read where the expedition falls victim to warring factions and raw ambition.

We had none of that, laughed a lot instead. Everybody felt competent within themselves and trusted one another, and there wasn't much question that we could do the climb. The bigger goal was making a film anyway, and that felt very doable too. The weather was basically perfect and the climbing was classic alpine, up to 5.8 on good granite, patches of 50-degree water ice mixed in among bomber steirofoam snow climbing in a breathtaking setting.

We got up every day and went climbing in inspiring conditions. At the end of a month we had put 10 people on top -- all but one of those who wanted to -- we had the makings of a good film in the bag, we were all still friends and there had never been so much as a raised voice the whole trip.

Ralph Lowe was amazing. He was under severe warning about a heart attack and had gotten reluctant permission from his doctor to go no higher than basecamp at 15,000 feet. Yet one day he wandered into Camp I at 19,000 feet. After hearing Jeff Lowe's stories of being taken to climb the Grand as a young boy, it came full circle to meet his Dad who had made that happen.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
Thanks for weighing in Doug!

Tom has remarked several times to me about how good you are with kids and how much easier that made it for Marna and Ryan to settle in and have a memorable time in Base Camp.

The Sherpas put major emphasis on family so they must have really been grooving on the scene when they could relate so easily to what this particular expedition was about. Tom's account in the AAJ talks about the Sherpas ducking out to check in down in their own villages making their work that much smoother at home.

Dreamy expedition for everyone climbing the neighborhood mountain!

Had the film assignment been less sports and more culturally oriented the whole experience could have been captured to yield an astounding documentary. Hard to not see the missed opportunity on this one!
yo

climber
a tied-off Tomahawk™
May 17, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
What about this rumor: the regulation-size green army duffle chockfull of Reese's peanut butter cups, Snickers, Hershey bars, Baby Ruths, Jolly Ranchers, who can say what other Western delights?

It was kept under lock and key 24/7 by some weak-willed individual. Could it have been Bossier? Super-agent Rodney Korich? Who can say. There were conniving children afoot, not to mention sly Sherpas.

Doug's recollections are nice but when the duffle dipped toward empty well ahead of schedule, oh, the fabric of the expedition was tested indeed.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
Who is your source for all these important rumors?
tylerbotzon

climber
cayucos ca
May 17, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
I just got back 3 days ago, From an alpine style attempt of this incredible mountain. Early season mega monsoon weather with tons of snow shut down the climbing between camp 1 and camp 3. This is one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever seen! I'm on my way back to alaska to work and save up for round 2! In a trance because of this mountain..
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