Ama Dablam 1979-Tom Frost, DR & Jeff Lowe

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
Three different views of climbing Ama Dablam in 1979 once it was opened up for climbing again.

Tom Frost's account from Summit August-September 1979.
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Doug Robinson on mixed ground between Camps 1 and 2. Tom Frost photo.

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And two perspectives from Mountain March -April 1980.

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Happy Thanksgiving everyone!




Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Nov 27, 2009 - 02:39am PT
Awesome. I'd love to climb that mountain.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 27, 2009 - 03:15am PT
hey there steve, say... this is a really great way to present a climb like this:

in a three-in-one view... really neat...

thanks for the shared info...
:)


edit: oooopsss, the pictures are just fully downloading, ... did NOT know there were so many nice ones... had only see the first half of the post...

great mountain shots... :)
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Nov 27, 2009 - 09:38am PT
Thanks!

I'm interested in anything about Nepal, Khumbu, and Sherpas.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
Jeff's solo adventure is truly inspiring and out there! I hope that he will join in.
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Nov 27, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
How many hook placements did they enhance?
Fritz

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Nov 27, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
Steve: Thanks for posting up a great group of articles. I looked at the post on my first read ------and had "dejae vue all over again."

I had read the two articles from Mountain, while researching Royal Robbins ads, about a week ago.

What's the odds that two Tacoites would be reading the same 1970's Mountain articles in such a short time-span?

That Jello-----he was a "rope rocket."
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Nov 27, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
How many hook placements did they enhance?

Hey Wildobeast. Keep your adolescent remarks within the WOS threads and stay out of Steve's historical contributions, unless you have something pertinent to add. You're like the heckler in the back of the classroom, who knows nothing of the current discussion. Right, this is history son, so pay attention.
Arne
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Nov 27, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
Deleted.
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Bay Area , California
Nov 28, 2009 - 12:28am PT
Picture of Ama Da Blan taken from our tent in 2002 on Lobuche BC


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 12:42am PT
What an amazing mountain! Nice shots, Majid.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 28, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
Awesome! I remember raptly reading this stuff; too bad I moved too many times and always purged before each move. I left too many mags and catalogs and gear on the curb.

Jello's account of Ama Dablam is one of my favorite reads.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
Another view from the Book of Modern Mountaineering edited by Malcolm Milne, 1968.

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Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Nov 30, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
Yes, it was an inspiring article. Possibly to the extend that me and my Danish friends went there in Oct. 1988...

We were there I think in the last season where it was possible to be alone on the South Ridge. And we managed to climb the mountain in pure alpine style, not using the old fixed ropes nor sherpas above base. Well, my friends did; I ran out of steam at c. 6400 m and waited at the snow shoulder (the "Dablam") while they went up. One week later two more from our group reached the summit. A good trip!

Here is a recorded report (mp3-file) from the Radio Nepal:
Radio Nepal

And some pictures.
Ama Dablam:
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From Tengboche:
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Tengboche Monastery before the fire in 1989:
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From Khumjung:
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ABC and Kantega:
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Bo Christensen and me on the ridge in 6000 m:
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On Ama Dablam South Ridge:
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Soren Smidt before the Mushroom Ridge:
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Soren Smidt on the upper slopes. It's me on the snowledge down to the right:
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Soren and Bo on summit; Lhotse and Everest behind:
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Getting the records straight with Himalya chronicler Elizabeth Hawley:
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We even wrote a book!
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Michael

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Dec 2, 2009 - 03:22am PT
A selfish bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2009 - 10:17am PT
Michael- Fantastic adventure for your team! Thanks for sharing the photos.

Do you recall what year the mountain was closed to climbing?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
The classic Tom Frost shot of Jeff looking stud!

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Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Dec 12, 2009 - 02:26am PT
I agree with Pate: great pics, Michael! What a classy mountain...

And Steve, Tom Frost can make anyone look like a stud, when all the while the real stud is behind the lens.

-JelloTheWobbly
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Dec 12, 2009 - 05:53am PT
Thanks; it's an honour to show them and get comments from you guys!

Steve: No, I do not recall when it was closed. Maybe Jello would know: The 1979 was the first expedition since the 1961, where Bishop and Hillary et al fell into bad standing due to their slightly illegal climb. As it was climbed regular after the Frost-Lowe et al ascent, maybe it was before 79?

When I write that ours was the last chance to be alone, only means that after 1988 Ama D became one of the most popular peaks for guided expeditions, knitted into an amour of fixed ropes. So it goes ...

**

With a slight drift I can mention that one hour ago I said farewell to wellknown climbing sherpas Pertemba Sherpa (of SWF-Everest fame) and multi-multi everester (and recently Ama D) Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who stayed in my flat during the Summiteers Summit here in Copenhagen. Nice guys, lots of stories!

Will put up a climbing related COP15-thread soon...
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Feb 17, 2011 - 08:09am PT
- another selfish bump...!
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