Fishy, that 5.8 crack with the bolted anchor is called "Ranger Crack". The way I heard it, after the area was removed from the guide, Lober and a lackey drove a rig onto the bridge, went up there and powerdrilled those two bolts at night. Kind of a do as I say not as I do sort of thing.
Hence the name.
But it could be a load of bollocks.
I don't see "Ten beers after" that 5.7 right facing corner to the three mantle moves on the face to a bolted anchor that is between ranger crack and the falls...
Anyone else done it?
My first time to the Lower Yos Falls amphitheater I went nuts... hopped on the first good looking hand-crack on lead with no guidebook, and had a drawn-out drama about halfway up Lightweight Guides when I was a marginal 5.9 climber. Full Elvis leg splayed out on the dihedral stem, shaky arms trying everything on the rack to get a piece in, then blowing it for a 20-25 foot fall (my first) and stopping about 10 feet or less off the ground. All in front of my wife and non-climber friends. Good times.
As Ed said, the 87 Meyers/Reid guide has a very clear diagram and routes of the area.
I've done the Carbon Wall and the Yosemite Falls West Side route in my hammering days, which were wonderful climbs. I've also done the Waterfall route, and that was the one where I felt like the Pied Piper. It's almost all fourth class, and it's possible for tourists to get quite high off the ground.
I think the visual impact goes beyond chalk, though. The rock there is covered with dark lichens. If we ended up scraping that the way we have on, say Serenity Crack or Bishop's Terrace, the impact could be quite severe, indeed. . . but's the climbing's so good, and now off the beaten (climber's) path.
I haven't climbed there since the Reid guides said the NPS asked not to describe it, and I wonder how infrequently we could ascend and not end up destroying the lichens.
Thanks all - that is certainly the one. I also heard someone tentatively mention the words "Ranger Crack" now that you mention it - but they were very unsure if it was real or not. I didn't get any of the Lober story though - could it be just wild enough to be true?
Thanks guys for All of the information. It is 4 years down the road, and I am pursuing more info on the Amphitheater. It is September again. Only one couple, in from LA, were on the 5.8 hand crack this Sunday.
The park has now paved a road almost all the way to the back. I cannot imagine that climbers would effect the circus like atmosphere that prevails here, too much. It is definitely not pristine wilderness.
All solid trad climbing to bolts, as I remember, rap stations/belays fixed. We set up a top rope on Ten years after and Dave Shulz, soloed up about 100 feet wandering around the wall, then grabbed the TR and hand over hand down climbed it. Dave later led Blackout a solid black climb, good pro.
People there that day besides Dave: Mike Paul and Dmitri Barton were there, Howard Chapman and "Too Strong Dave." Ten Years after parallels a couple other climbs up good, slightly water polished face/crack climbing. It seems like it is in the shade. I don't remember seeing any tourists at all. Had a great time there, even burned one.
Edit: Above timeline 1985. Went back to same area soon after and climbed "Auntie Gravity." One really nice face and crack climb with an exciting 30' run out right after the crack ends.
We climbed in the Amphitheater last weekend - great shady spot on a hot September day. We did (left to right) Ranger Crack/Superhands 5.8, Guiding Light P1 (10a), Lightweight Guides (10a), Unknown Arete (10a?), Unknown Crack (5.6). Lots to explore in there. Bring the 87 Meyers/Reid guide and a rope gun!