The Albatrosse, Leave the pins at home!


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Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
My title caption simply states, you don't have to bring the suggested amount of pitons, of 27 total, not including the 10 beaks. I, on lead brought a starter selection of pitons, that I was willing to place, but after leading the first A3+ pitch, without placing a angle, lost arrow, or kniefblade, I thought that perhaps I might be able to climb the route with only beaks/peckers....less intrusive pitons. Point being, if you want to lighten up, Leave the HEAVY pitons at home. As for the chisel use, like Mr. Grossman said, it let's you pinpoint your hammer blow, either in a hard to strike corner position, or even straight in. Using the chisel, on beaks simply makes the placement more secure. Using it to clean the beak, makes it very useful as well. Hope this clarifies the intent of my post. Peace out!

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 18, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
"refigerator size flake"



Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Nov 18, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
The chisel is a great idea, especially for cleaning.

LA's have always been the ticket to get those pesky beaks out.

Good stuff here
seamus mcshane

Nov 18, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
Yo KA !
Badass dude!!!
What's that, 20 routes?
Remember nearly drowning in the Owen's River? Gotta be 10 years ago.
What a hoot!!!
Peace from St. George. McShane.

Nov 18, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
I think it could be said of every nailing route that beak-type pins replace many/most other pins. Definitely reduces the need to tie off short. I carry almost no KBs and way fewer LAs. The hooking action and ability to go where no pin has gone make Peckers and Tomahawks shine. Tomahawks' right/left design reduce the need for using a chisel, making them easier to place (and clean) in corners.

What we need are more canted (camming) designs like the Pika Toucan. And we need fatter-blade versions to better work in LA slots similar to Crack-N-Ups.

That style piton is the cat's ass. Some of mine so mysteriously disappeared last year...there's a testimony.

Nice job on the route, Bd. Cool pic of the Canoe above your name.

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
Excuse me, Mr. Middendorf. I didn't mean to sound cocky. The bolts on "Walk the plank" pitch, are not in the supertopo book. So I thought someone else had placed them. Their is however a big fat new one next to the first bolt, the original bolt look totally fine to me, however I didn't use either one. The rivet above that was used and wipped on! wow-hoo
So, thanks for putting up the route! It was a blast! CHEERS!

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 20, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
Pardon the interuption...I'll delete shortly. Mike. I sent you an e-mail via tacomail a while back. Did it go through?

Nov 20, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
Melissa, No I did not. The ST-gram dealie doesn't reach me for whatever reason. ouscre at hotmail daught cahm does work. Cheers to ya both.
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