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Bulldog
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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On my recent solo ascent, I brought the heavy iron of the suggested amount, and luckily brought a extra 12/22 total beaks. Never did place a single pin, but did clip 4 or 5 fixed pins enroute. Moral of the story, lighten up, and leave the pins at home. P.S. chop the bolts on, Walk the plank pitch, theirs a bomber head placement,and bomber cam placement a foot away. Oh yeah,P.S.S. bring a #2 cam for getting on top of the canoe, or free climb it.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 14, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Hey Kevin,
Nice having beers with you and Gretchen in the "Seedy". Congrats on your solo of the Albatross - I gotta go do that route someday.
Your post above is unclear to me - are you saying you used a bunch of big peckers?
Now - tell us about your ascent of Mediterraneo! Let's hear the beta and see the pix, buddy. Hey Tom, where are you these days? We should go do that one!
Oh yeah, and Bad To The Bone! Might be on that one come spring.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 14, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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You are talking about The Flight of the Albatross, right? First solo ascent? Congratulations! How many hammered placements more or less and how was the climbing? I never understood how those hardware lists get so freakin' bloated.
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Bulldog
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
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Yeah Pete, good swilling with you and those volumptuous women at the seedie! Pecker report goes like this, 3 extra large, 4 large, 12 medium, 3 small, some of those medium sized ones are ground down to sharpen them up, from prior use. As the Mediterraneo topo goes, we didn't make a topo, we got topo off a El Cap poster, which was basiclly a staight line, good luck on that one, bring many peckers, All belays are bomber. Bad to the Bone, many peckers, and bugaboos, you might have to add rivet to the 6th pitch, a refigerator size flake ripped on my partner, he wore it like a cheap dress while flipping upside, WOW! Hope that helps. Later
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Bulldog
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
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Yes, SENSEI/Mr. Grossman that is The Flight of the Albatross but I didn't huck my carcass off the top, so it's only The Albatross. The climbing was great, those two pitches coming off of Cast away maties pinnacle are very splitter and Mr. CaldwelLs chalk all over it. The aid pitches were amazing as well. Oh yeah, 14 peckers were placed on the first A3 pitch and I placed 18 on the other A3 pitch, and all peckers were set with a chisel on the back of the head, "Watch out for ramp on that pitch." Good to hear from you, SENSEI!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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"we got topo off a El Cap poster, which was basiclly a staight line"
haha .
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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peckers are not pins????
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:47am PT
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That is the most beautiful part of the Captain and that route has always interested me since few routes move through it. Again, proud effort and thanks for the details.
Pondering the mistreatment and disrespect that Zenyatta has suffered has been getting me down recently and has had me wondering if anyone really even hears my voice these days. These routes are too fragile for continual mindless pounding and drilling.
The Captain serenely takes all that we dish out and in doing so provides a mirror for our collective dreams and motivation should you choose to see yourself in the midst of the adventure.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 15, 2009 - 02:10am PT
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Good job keeping the hammering to a minimum on such a proud route!
Beautiful line, what was the canoe like? That thing looks knarly!
Bad to the bone too? Damn....
Mucci
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Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
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Nov 15, 2009 - 05:10am PT
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I concur about the beta - I believe I placed 15 Beaks (did not use a chisel to set them though) on the "walk the plank pitch" when me and Ian did it in late june of 2009. I would suggest bringing as a minimum; 11 normal sized, 4 medium and 1 large. I also think the rating is a bit off, it is a hard pitch with a possible ledge bruiser... RFP! (really fun pitch)
I was also wondering about the bolt on that pitch - a few feet higer is a Bomber green (?) alien placement.
Placed some heads (5?) on that pitch aswell - and we left them in place - hope you liked them Bulldog!
I think the chalk on the pitches above "cast away" belongs to Honnold and Anker, they were freeclimbing on "EL Corazon" when we were hanging out on the Albatross...
peace
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jack herer
climber
veneta, or
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Nov 15, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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what is an extra large beak? is it a vermin thing or a spectre?
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Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
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Nov 16, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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Black Diamond make three different sizes of the Pecker, #1, #2 and #3.
I call the #1 for the normal/standard size, then #2 goes as a medium and #3 is pretty big and I call it large.
No need for an extra large beak if it is bigger than BD #3...
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 16, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
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peckers are not pins? that's news to me...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 16, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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I think that his point is updating the hardware list.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Nov 16, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Steve,
Don't worry you are being heard by a lot of climbers out there, especially in the more fragile areas.
Yosemite seems to be way behind and eventually will be loved to death. I suspect many routes already have been. It's way past time for people to stop making excuses and start leaving the hammer behind and try to climb as clean as possible. There still seems to be a mindset in Yosemite that hammering the hell out of everything is a given right, whereas getting the hammer out of the haul bag should be a last resort.
Cheers
john
PS: Bulldog, congrats on your solo.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 16, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
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Congrats on the light-handed ascent. Much respect.
Certainly there is a difference between the damage of pounding a pin with a hammer and setting a pecker with a tap. Enough difference to recognize. You probably clean them with a yank eh? No harm done!
Peace
Karl
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 16, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
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"all peckers were set with a chisel on the back of the head"
can you explain this? Never heard of this technique...using a chisel to place a beak.
And sorry...but I don't get the "I placed 34 beaks, but I didn't place any pins" logic.
Not sh#t talkin, just curious and confused. Are beaks the new clean aid?
Congrats on your ascent!
And John, "yosemite seems way behind". Way behind what? Wasn'tclean aiding invented in Yosemite? Have harder clean ascents been done elsewhere? Doubt it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 16, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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The issue for me is sustainability and challenge. A mini-drytooling exercise is better than a bunch of fixed heads. Most people don't even seem to be aware that they should be cleaning pitons from the midpoint upwards rather than lazily all the way up and down which just leaves a flare that becomes very hard to clean climb and clears off any irregularities. Soft rock freaks learn that lesson quickly.
Lambone- Listen to the crap advice that Pete can't help spewing and you will get the point.
The blunt chisel comes into play when you don't have a clear swing at the anvil of the beak. Lots of folks will just blast away and scar the area just as people like to place heads with the pick of their hammer and cause rock damage with the slightest misplaced blow.
Nobody is taking the position that beaks aren't being hammered or regarded as a piton but they are placed differently and result in a different sort of impact.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 17, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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^^^uh, well I am pretty sure I read it right when the OP said "I didn't place any pins." And the title of the thread is "leave your pins at home." I dunno maybe I am just confused on the language... But why would you make that claim after nailing 30+ beaks?
RE chisel...I didn't think about beaks in corners, yeah that makes sense to use the chisel. Good technique to keep from marring up the rock.
I agree that beaks are less damaging then other pins, like uhhhh duh. Not a ground breaking revelation there. But a beak is a pin and nailing is nailing.
"Lambone- Listen to the crap advice that Pete can't help spewing and you will get the point."
WTF does that mean?^^^ why you gotta go trash talking Pete outa nowhere? Yeah I have been reading Pete's advice for over 10 years, what's it to you? Doesn't mean I agree with all of itbut that doesn't mean it's crap.
I think the only people you are talking about who don't know how to clean pins properly are noobs on zod, trip, shield... But even most of those guys have read it in the supertopo book they just don't have practice yet. Too bad for those routes.
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