notes on San Diego rock climbing

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The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 29, 2017 - 10:19am PT
The Shining Slab?

How'd that go for ya?

For some reason, not many ascents

Credit: The Warbler

Xmas day
adenparker

climber
Encinitas, CA
Jan 1, 2018 - 09:24am PT
It’s a great route! I think it’s gotten some more traffic recently..it’s definitely deserving of it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 1, 2018 - 09:49am PT
What was your opinion of the 3rd class start to the bolted anchor about 30' off the deck? Assuming that's how you started it.


I've had some guys tell me it was too dicey for them. I've thought about adding a bolt or two

The sister route to the left from the same start, Stellar Slab, is worth doing. A little harder, the first pitch is all time - truly stellar
sd-nick

climber
San Diego
Jan 1, 2018 - 09:56am PT
I remember thinking the start looked kinda sketch on Shining slab? Maybe really overgrown last season? Stellar slab is a good route too. Hey any history of bee problems out there? Had some buddies get in an epic involving a swarm that landed between them on the 3rd pitch of The Direct Route.


Edit: Im a slow typer
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 1, 2018 - 10:06am PT
Never had bee problems out there.

The original start for both routes is the same to the two bolt anchor 30 ft up



sd-nick

climber
San Diego
Jan 1, 2018 - 10:21am PT
Oops checked my notes had routes reversed. We did Shining slab. I wrote scary start but dont remember much...

Credit: sd-nick


The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 1, 2018 - 10:30am PT
Yeah

I have a solution for that in mind

Both those routes are really good, and well protected for four pitches.

I think the start, as is, is out of character
adenparker

climber
Encinitas, CA
Jan 9, 2018 - 09:10am PT
Yeah, the start was definitely a bit spooky. There was a bit of debate on whether or not we do the route because of it. I think it’d definitely get more traffic if it was less sketchy.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 9, 2018 - 09:32am PT
Ok

That’s pretty much unanimous feedback - I’ll put an upgrade on the list.

Thanks for the input. I have a plan...

That route’s called the Shining Slab because it caught my eye from a commercial flight descending to Lindbergh Field years before I ventured out there. It was gleaming white in the afternoon sun, and looked big, even from the plane. Stuck in my mind for years while I was busy in the SLR Canyon

Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Jan 20, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
Somewhere
Somewhere
Credit: Contractor
Just West of somewhere
Just West of somewhere
Credit: Contractor
Glory bowl somewhere in San Diego
D2R2

Sport climber
Earth
Jan 21, 2018 - 07:07am PT
Not really in SD but close enough. Has anyone explored or does anyone climb out there now? The place is on the way to Idyllwild via the (79?), its been a while, cant remember the road names. Anza? Theres an Indian reservation/casino you drive right by while sneaking into Idyllwild from the south. Big boulders everywhere, small rural country store across street from indian casino? Mountain side back way behind it with some interesting looking sizeable rocks? I drove out there once couldn't figure my way around the dirt roads out there and the private property. I bouldered around on that south side opf the road circa the Indian Casino, got yelled at by some Indian folks who told me I wasn't supposed to be there. Anyways, the boulders are big, granite and the potential is actually quite staggering, some amazing lines around there, some way tooo hard for me even back then. I think it's/ was an untapped reservoir of boulders. Of course the largest ones on the north side of the road, not on the rez, had bolt ladders to the top. An interesting SD phenomenon I often noticed when I thought I had found 'new' stuff. The biggest boulder always seems to have a bolt ladder to the top in SD obscurities.
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Jan 21, 2018 - 07:30am PT
Those boulders look enticing but are generally grainy and loose from my experience. A buddy went in there recently and Ive checked them out myself. That line of rock extends to the base of Hotsprings Mountain.

If you've continued past there and turned right or East on the Pines to Palms Highway, you've seen an amazing expanse of rock up on the mountainside above Ribbonwood.

That has amazing rock quality but the crags are only 30 to 40 feet and the access is brutal. Some of the boulders up there are 4 star.
Credit: Contractor
Credit: Contractor
adenparker

climber
Encinitas, CA
Feb 13, 2018 - 09:46pm PT
San Diego continues to produce the goods
Ben bouldering ‘Cataclysm Arete’
Ben bouldering ‘Cataclysm Arete’
Credit: adenparker
Credit: adenparker
Credit: adenparker
Credit: adenparker
Sweet kneebar
Sweet kneebar
Credit: adenparker
goboy

Trad climber
san diego
Feb 14, 2018 - 10:33am PT
Half cat at the mountaineer's wall, El Cajon Mountain. Wildest bit of trad climbing i've done!
https://vimeo.com/250178917

Rope burn
Rope burn
Credit: goboy
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 14, 2018 - 10:50am PT
Some day American climbers will connect the dots...
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Feb 14, 2018 - 11:23am PT
You guys ever been up to Cahuilla Mountain?
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Feb 14, 2018 - 11:26am PT
Drove past that mountain on the way to Idylwild, looks like some fun stuff but thought it was on Indian Reservation land
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 15, 2018 - 12:41am PT
The climber is the late Werner Landry. Photo taken in 2014.
The climber is the late Werner Landry. Photo taken in 2014.
Credit: Juan Maderita
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