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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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right on Kevin,
look, when ya get the winch fixed on top,
I'll air-lift my dolt cart in, hop on and make
"an ascent".
great pics all.
B back tomorrow.
Ray
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Nov 14, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
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Eagle peak is the BEST sport crag is San Diego. In all honestly Im more than a little disappointed that a guide has been published. For the last year it has been a great pleasure to climb new routes as they appear on the wall with no idea of the rating. I wont be buying that guide. Its more fun to explore the crag. I hope this wont attract throngs of people to this gem. Thanks again Kevin for for efforts.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago'
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Nov 14, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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Warbler!
That last shot^^ reminds me of Rebuffet/Alps.
Primo!
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Nov 14, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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I dont know what climbs these are but just thought I'd add some photos.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 14, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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NICE looking stone and lots if it! Thanks for posting all those shots!
Rather frustrating that the climbing community through the Access Fund or some more effective mechanism hasn't been able to at least narrow the closure areas down to something realistic. Most of those species put up with people just fine and are more than willing to get in your face if they are not! They nest on buildings...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 14, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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warbler, are those boouldering shots at the 'bow?
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Nov 14, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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Wow...what a great photo. yea, thats the one. There are two lines there. The climbers left felt like 5.11 and the right felt 5.11+ or so, maybe harder if my memory serves me. Both were great leads.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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san diego ftw bump.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 15, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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Warbler has one of the best eyes in the business for spotting new lines ....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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damn. i know where i'm going this easter.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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Thanks for the positive email everyone.
T2, thanks for the warm thoughts - sorry for the slow reply -
wishing you and yours the best, you bet.
OffWhite: props for all your hard work in San Diego rock climbing.
You are a founding father. Wishing you and yours the very best
as well, always.
bvb - honestly, think Woodson stands on its own. Deerhorn is
different, they could be compared but have, and I hope will
continue to, serve different functions. Nothing could replace
"The Woodsonian Institute" in SD climbing history. Nothing.
Also need to mention, for the record, the exemplary contributions
of Greg Cameron and Rick Piggot - these guys kick A.
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
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Deerhorn Valley - a changing of the guard.
I left in the mid/late 80's, came back to socal in the late 90's
and hooked up with the late Rick Corbin, went out to Jtree for
some fun desert camping.
In the next site around a campfire stood a group of climbers.
Could hear there voices but paid no attention until the word
"Deerhorn" was heard. I walked up and said, "no one climbs
there anymore". Conversation stopped. Blank suprised looks,
one guy goes "we climb there, who are you"?
Turns out it was Bill Maki and crew who - using the old guide -
took over at my fave crags and did a flat out great job. It
seemed amazing to me. Bill and partners saw exactly what
I had. Way overhanging face climbs, deep diorite fins, stuff
I thought maybe some day some one would TR. Bill equipped
them and the other worthy lines (Inflateable Doll) then did the
lead proper. And of course, he led the "Fang arete" a "dream climb".
As well all know, drilling gear BITD sucked. Quartz content in
the rock compounded the problem making for cratered holes.
Ugly. Bill's accurate comment "there were some bad bolts" was
met with a nod. We were strapped for cash a long time, funky
home made hanger concoctions and a hand full of button heads
were all we had sometimes. Still, it opened the climb, left a "mark"
and some of the stuff got led; Primal Man ('77 - 10a) on Dinasaur
rock - straight up a steep pronounced swath of beautiful chicken
heads. Bill and crew replaced all the junk - done deal.
It was our intention from the start to do everything ground up.
The Bunker ('75 - 5.9) the first roped climb done in the area and
the Fang ('76 - 5.9) were done that way, onsight. Facelift ('77 - 10a)
marked a change. With a hook and a drill, I - the spastic noob - headed
up, set the hook and started to drill. "Hall of Fame" road rash from the
ground fall caused me to reconsider. I gazed at the landscape, acers
and acers of steep stone. Almost no one, except for we three dweebs
climbed out there. Mainly, we had the place to ourselves for years and
needed to build a lead circuit to get better; can't just top rope all the
time. A line was fixed, three bolts off jumars, and the flood gate was
open.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
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In that T-Dome article it list's Jim Campbell as the climber on High Voltage when in reality I believe it is Rick Lovelace.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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the 'bow -- some of the best of sandy eggo!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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more 'bow. stellar stone. the best.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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coupla a years ago warbler. oh HELL YEAH!
jeff leads lookin' fully sw0le on the golden perfection:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
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Thanks for the invitation, Kevin.
I spend plenty of my climbing time clipping bolts these days but won't pass up a tasty thriller either.
The bumpersticker that I never quite got around to printing up, Sport Climbing- Alpinism's Answer to Menopause!!!
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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^^^
too funny
again, great pics all.
I just had the funnest dream,
really -
I was at the beach, here in IB,
and, everyone was there..
there was a party going on in
an apartment, I found it by
accident, even TM was there,
standing in the hall smiling.
everyone was inside an apt, busy
getting plastered...
I was like, I'm outta here, and
started up the beach - over a
sand dune comes a little suv buggy,
almost pitching on an endo as it
ripped off the dune, then -not kidding!
then I go - what the F? a full size bus
going full speed. - no way! - hauling A up the dune,
flys off, lands and almost breaks in half - everyone was
laughing their asses off! we were all there -
even Jaybro, and watched as these vehicles kept going
inland, crashing into someones pad. applause.
then some people started playing baseball
where I was standing, the batter hit me one ball,
I caught it, tossed it back, it skipped off the ground, so...
I kept going up the beach...where do I live and
why do I feel so great? I wondered...finally, after
looking all over the place I found
my place, made out of light blue fiberglass - like
a bungalow sized out house. I fiddled with the lock,
went in, opened the window, and stepped up on
the wrought iron railing, looking out over the pacific -
it was a splitter afternoon, I just held on, and
couldn't stop smiling :-)
cu guys later,
Ray
EDIT: in my dream, when I stood in the hall of the apartment
building, TM Herbert was there, as mentioned, he was tanned and
smiling a bit, no hat, looking straight at me, I turned left, looked
in the open door of the apartment, behind a person standing inside the
doorway, people were partying, The person, a man, turned to me and
smiled, a kind smile - it was Karl Baba. then I left,
on the beach were bunches of people, and I kept looking for Jaybro,
figuring for sure he was there, but never actually saw him. the ball
I threw didn't skip, actually it hit the ground and rolled, bad toss,
I tried to throw well, didn't - on the way home, I tried 3 or4 doors
on different apartments, going up and down stairs, none of them were
right. at one point, I crossed thru and inter section on a street and
walked right past Clark Jacobs, very clear, he was smiling, I
remember wondering why I never realized he was such a fine spirit
 that's it. It was a hyper vivid dream, rare for me)
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 15, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Cool thread for sure!! Makes me as well pine for the place...My little brother just opened his own tattoo parlor in SD and wants me to assist him......
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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bump for the Warbler, Watsui, bvb and all the other SD folks
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