notes on San Diego rock climbing

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The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
Eagle Peak Summit Wall
Eagle Peak Summit Wall
Credit: The Warbler
Most of the Eagle Peak escarpment
Most of the Eagle Peak escarpment
Credit: The Warbler
The wall in the bottom photo is about 500 ft high at its highest point, south facing like Corte Madera and El Cajon Mtn. The Summit wall is about 350 ft at its highest point, and has lots of good steep pitches, despite its fractured appearance. Elevation of Eagle Peak's summit is around 3,600 ft.

Routes up to 6 pitches, lots of 3and 4 pitch routes, some single sport pitches along the base.
about 120 pitches in this photo. 1/2 hr approach by mtn bike, USFS land.

I first saw this from a commercial flight into Lindberg Field, and didn't venture out there for a few years, as I was busy elsewhere. No bushwhacking involved for a change - even before the Cedar Fire which swept through in the first Fall season we were climbing there. The right side of the main wall has some 30 steep and overhanging pitches.
Eagle Peak Main Wall
Eagle Peak Main Wall
Credit: The Warbler
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
The Last Frontier, Corte Madera
The Last Frontier, Corte Madera
Credit: The Warbler
Corte madera
Corte madera
Credit: The Warbler
Corte Madera, one of Eagle Peak's two sister crags, about five hundred feet high, at an elevation of over 4,000 ft. Snow capped Mt Cuyamaca in the background. About fifty years of climbing history here, and lots of new sport routes on excellent rock.
Credit: The Warbler
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
ECM straight on
ECM straight on
Credit: The Warbler
El Cajon Mtn, the other big crag, scene of many new sport routes, and nationally known bolting controversy
ECM profile
ECM profile
Credit: The Warbler
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
Warbler, those are some really great pics. Makes me homesick for sun and dry rock.

On another San Diego note, I remember climbing the crack on the west side of what we called "Seal Rock," just north of Escondido on the west side of I-15. It's kind of a stand alone rock up at the top of the hill. There's a great hands-off hands curving, overhanging crack on the backside.

After my friend and I were on it--struggling mightily, I might add--I mentioned to Eeyonkee that we'd done it. He said something like, "Oh yeah, what is that, like 11c, or something? I remember that the top part took some bigger cams." I just kind of nodded. Inside, I was thinking, "Crap! You led that thing??"
TripL7

Trad climber
'dago'
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
Ray!

Thanks for the hospitality....no place like home!

I'll take sometime and do some catch-up, see where ya all been...looks like ya all been put-tin them dang rattlers on the skedaddle.

Speaking of rattlers, I recall a trip 4-5 of us made one Spring weekend @'73(Vawter may have been along) out to Corte Madera. Camped Friday night and after breakfast started the relatively short hike up to the face. We were planning on doing the 'Open Book'(Cameron/poway mt.boys FA 5.9?).

All were anticipating a fun weekend at our new haunts. As we finally made our way to the base of the 'dihedral', we had already encountered approx. 9-10 of those slithery beast. Generally right before we stepped on their tail. I am telling you, it was an infestation. If V is around, I am sure he could elaborate.

So, we get to the base of the climb and here we have 3-4 basking right on the belay rock/ledge. It was so rife with them I recall someone questioning whether or not 1-2 might fall out of the corner somewhere above. Even as we stood there I noticed everyone looking around and behind, expecting one to crawl up one of our legs any moment.

Really creepy kinda juju feeling going on. Not knowing what we would encounter on the circuitous journey back down we decided late Spring was mating season, or the were all just out of hibernation. We opted to bail, in light of the isolation/time required to get help.(This story makes us sound like a bunch of wussy's, but they didn't have any Helli's/cell phones etc. in '73)so everyone concurred.

On the way down, we took turns 'leading', not knowing if the next step down would land on one of them, our vision often being so occluded by brush etc.

Been to similar places and saw not a one.

Well, not really that much to gain from this story, just mentioned the rattlers above and this memory came to mind. I am going to read now and maybe have a little something else to add(I don't want to ask any redundant questions!)

Kevin-incredible shot up-thread...kind of our own little 'Nirvana'. Where is it? Is that you with the red ruck-sack?(do not answer if redundant).

Trip~

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
Sharma, Soy Chango P2, 11c, Eagle Peak Main Wall
Sharma, Soy Chango P2, 11c, Eagle Peak Main Wall
Credit: The Warbler
Pitch 2, Tail Tucker Arete 5.11 d, EP Main Wall
Pitch 2, Tail Tucker Arete 5.11 d, EP Main Wall
Credit: The Warbler
Bush Doctor &#40;the route, not the guy&#41;, 11d, on Tan Man Tower ab...
Bush Doctor (the route, not the guy), 11d, on Tan Man Tower above EP main wall
Credit: The Warbler
Pitch 2, Baby Face, 5.11c, EP Main Wall
Pitch 2, Baby Face, 5.11c, EP Main Wall
Credit: The Warbler
Trip-

That's Boulder Creek below Eagle Peak, last spring.

A bit of an effort to get there, but hey... as Ray pointed out earlier, se vale la pena!



TripL7

Trad climber
'dago'
Nov 14, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
Kevin!

Just now noticed the shots of Corte Madera above, awesome. Brings back some memories. We should start charging admission.

Super climbing shots.

Thanks!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
Great pictures Kevin. Now that your posting pics, I am sure you got all kinds of good ones to share.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
The steep and the deep.
Credit: The Warbler
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
Make sure to look out for them ill eagles. They be out a-pillagin' yer jobs!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Nov 14, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
Here's a San Diego rock climbing mystery photo. I'd conferred with BVB (the climber in the photo) as to where it was and we'd thought it was Corte Madera, either S Face or Spacious Enterprise, and I was all ready to post it as such to this thread, but closer inspection of the original large scan revealed the black dot above Bob to clearly be a drill and that he has a hammer on his hip, so I know our earlier conclusion is wrong since I don't think we ever drilled anything out there. It's San Diego for sure, circa 1977 or 78, but does anyone have an idea of where? Stonewall, maybe Babies On Fire?



That SD County chapparal bushwacking is burly for sure, I think I still have scars on my palms from blisters inflicted by military surplus machetes. Its right up there with the best brush I've found in the Northwest.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
Weschrist,

There's a new guidebook with EP's routes available. Try REI. If you can't get it I can hook you up.
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
right on Kevin,
look, when ya get the winch fixed on top,
I'll air-lift my dolt cart in, hop on and make
"an ascent".

great pics all.

B back tomorrow.
Ray
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Nov 14, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
Eagle peak is the BEST sport crag is San Diego. In all honestly Im more than a little disappointed that a guide has been published. For the last year it has been a great pleasure to climb new routes as they appear on the wall with no idea of the rating. I wont be buying that guide. Its more fun to explore the crag. I hope this wont attract throngs of people to this gem. Thanks again Kevin for for efforts.

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
The Prime Rib, 5.12a, Eagle Peak Main Wall
The Prime Rib, 5.12a, Eagle Peak Main Wall
Credit: The Warbler
Homeboy, 5.10b, Tan Man Tower
Homeboy, 5.10b, Tan Man Tower
Credit: The Warbler
Port,

Your spirit of adventure is rare these days..

As you know, we kept the area secret for years, until the USFS tried to close it with an absurd raptor protection closure. A one mile by two mile seven month closure for one prairie falcon pair, from Dec 1st through June 30th. All cliffs were included, the 1000 ft slope below, 2 miles of Boulder Creek, and half way up the facing slope. For the entire climbing season.

A$$holes.

We were forced to go public to get the support necessary to protect the crag from closure. In their dishonest effort to keep climbers off public land, the Forest Service may well have inadvertantly laid the groundwork for Eagle Peak to become SD's most popular climbing area.

A$$holes.
TripL7

Trad climber
'dago'
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
Warbler!

That last shot^^ reminds me of Rebuffet/Alps.
Primo!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
I've been climbing at EP for about 6 years, and have only carried my camera 3 times, so my photos are a bit limited compared to the possibilities.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Wes,

I have also encountered the occasional sane and intelligent FS employee, but they're rare.

San Jacinto, Tahquitz and Suicide from SD
San Jacinto, Tahquitz and Suicide from SD
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
Credit: The Warbler
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Phenomenal rock, lots of jugs, no climbers. Evah. Ahh, San Diego!
Phenomenal rock, lots of jugs, no climbers. Evah. Ahh, San Diego!
Credit: The Warbler
Nice rock, no climbers
Nice rock, no climbers
Credit: The Warbler
Nice rock, climber at the base
Nice rock, climber at the base
Credit: The Warbler
10a fun
10a fun
Credit: The Warbler
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Nov 14, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
I dont know what climbs these are but just thought I'd add some photos.






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