notes on San Diego rock climbing

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ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 31, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
Well so much for that!
Peace
Scole

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 4, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
I gotta get up there now that I live in San Diego. That's some nice looking stone!
gonamok

climber
aging malcontent
Jan 6, 2011 - 01:51am PT
Word. Ray Olsen set the standard for climbing area development in san diego county. Ray didnt just find and climb tons of classic routes, he built trail networks, stabilized landings, installed belays and cleared rest areas. Ray carved a masterpiece out of some hard, steep, brushy terrain at deerhorn valley, linking dozens of high quality routes with sidewalk-like trails, complete with shady rest areas and vantage points. The routes featured picnic area landings, comfy belays and easy access to the top, and most could be climbed with only a handful of slings and crabs.

Ray. DUDE. Nobody did it better.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jan 7, 2011 - 10:03am PT
Attention Allied Folks......clean up your drama at El Cajon Mtn!

mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Jan 7, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
Not sound condescending but I did mention "clean up", meaning fix the aftermath. Yes it is. Of course, it charred from the fire this past summer. Found it laying at the base of the corner system on the far right side (close to 'Match Book' 5.9). You can see the bent bolt above (20'ish). Additionally, the .10a face route to the right of Match Book is chopped too. I can list a few others on the left side of ECM that were chopped. Yes, the chopping occured a few years back. But locals should demonstrate unity and fix these routes and prove to the choppper (Art....hmmm!) that he is outnumbered if he chooses to slither back to ECM. I believe a good chunk of these routes were Brian's. Not sure if Brian even cares about his chopped routes.

Allied? Really?

I'm not trying to uncover an old Taco thread on this (appears it was deleted), just saw the topic of San Diego climbing and it was still fresh in my mind after finding it a little over 3 weeks ago.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 7, 2011 - 12:13am PT
Sunny warm Bump!
frog-e

Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
May 7, 2011 - 12:39am PT
Recovering from neurosurgery, last june 3rd.

I have 2 trick-ass pieces of titanium in my lumbar spine.
They are the latest thing - called "pivots". My freaking
Lumbar is strong as hell - no kidding. Amazing.

No fusion, no disk removal;

And the unending nerve pain of of sciatica is gone. Welded leg muscles,
"Myofascial adhesions" in (primarily) the left leg persist, but it is getting
Slowly better. I am doing my best to heal my body, my mind and spirit.
My life has been (or was) an ordeal. Climbing was the best part of the
Whole thing.

If anyone has questions about degenerative lumbar arthrits; stenosis,
Blown disks, etc. And is looking for an opinion in socal, the guy to
See is Dr Ty at socal neurosciences in Orange. Bad ass surgeon.
I wrote the review (testimonial) on their web site. Saved my life;
Severe pain paitents don't last long. Severe pain beats up the brain
Pretty bad...memory, cognitive problems.


I am undergoing some kind of major spiritual or wholistic transformation.
Probably the result of many decades of over-taxed central nervous system.
Probably a little fried, but doing better.

And...I got a great tan. ;-)

Thanks Ron for the nice post. Good luck with your Woodson thing.

Have fun out there everyone!

-Ray


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 7, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
Ray- Thanks for the report.

You have had much more than your share of ailments along the way.

Great to hear that you are on the mend!

Cheers- Steve
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
May 7, 2011 - 06:29pm PT
Good for you Ray, glad to hear you're on the mend and doing better !!

James
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
May 7, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
Hope yo continue in your recovery Ray and glad you found some relief to your situation. I work in rehabilitation and want to check out your surgeon, alway good to hear of someone out there doing good procedures with good results! Keep up the hard work!
Peace
gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 8, 2011 - 12:19am PT
Hey Ray, so glad to hear your surgery was a success and that youre on the upswing! You were a major force during the formative era of SD climbing, when there were still major areas to be found if you had the balls.

Good memories from BITD bro, remember Chuck and Judys party, how everybody was dancing like maniacs? Was that fun or what... If youre ever up for woodson or whatever, i still have the same number.
frog-e

Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
May 8, 2011 - 12:32am PT
Ron, that is very kind of you. I sincerly appreciate all your hospitality
and good will. We were (and are) all so fortunate to have those hills to run
around in, and the climbing is just so good. Hope to be around;
Getting to the point where I can maybe hike...or walk without limping.
Finally. All the work you are doing at woodson sounds awesome; used
to love to go out trail building - what a work out. Keeps one fit, eh?
I hope everything is going well for you. To quote our fine friend
Eppi:

"This is life, and we're living it..."

Take care Ron. It is my sincere hope we cross paths in the not so
distant future.

Sincerely,
Ray
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
May 8, 2011 - 12:42am PT
Great post, great pics from Kevin, great news from Ray (sounds like things are going well;......excellent, Ray...)........this is why supertopo rocks;...it's threads like this one....fantastic. San Diego has the awesome climbing opportunities...no doubt....truly inspirational....
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jul 1, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
I moved to Escondido back in November and my house is at the base of this mountain with what looks like about a 80 to 100 foot wall with some fun face climbing and some decent cracks as well. I've been exploring up there when I can and hope to check out the main wall for routes in the next couple months.
Does anyone out there know if this wall has been climbed before. Except for some hoodlum graffiti doesn't look like any one else has done much up there. There appears to be some fun climbs on the boulders and main wall. It's about 2 miles north-west of lake dixon. Here's some pics.


apogee

climber
Jul 1, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
Todd G grew up in the No County/Fallbrook area- he might have beta on that crag. There's a ton of little crags like that in No County.
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 1, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
I always want to check that face out every time I'm driving to meet my partner at the Park-and-Ride before trips to Idylwild or JTree.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jul 2, 2011 - 01:51am PT
Hit me up if you ever want to check the place out snake p. (or anyone else that is interested).Pretty easy approach, sort of like mission gorge.
looks like some fun stuff up there.

thanks for the tip apogee
snake pliskin

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jul 2, 2011 - 02:53am PT
Do you approach from the, what is it, Southeast? Right side of the main wall photo. I'm driving to Joshua Tree tomorrow, so i'll take a gander as I drive by. I could very well be getting in touch in the fall when it starts to cool off.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jul 2, 2011 - 03:46am PT
Yeah, beauty stuff to be sure! Being born in SD we did a lot of exploring...SD holds an immense wealth of potential. I wasn't surprised to see what these intrepid explorers had unearthed...Especially with their Warbler at the helm...Great, inspiring, and appealing stuff...Very well presented of course. :)
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Jul 3, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
there is an approach that comes up just left of the wall. Easy trail, just gotta watch for them rattlers.
There sure is alot of cool little crags like that everywhere around here, as has been mentioned before, you just gotta be willing to bushwack and explore a bit.
Thanks to the past an present SD climbers who have exposed these gems too us.
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