pile
Mountain climber
somewhere near suicide rock
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 09:53am PT
|
wow what a mess this is turning into
johannsolo-Dude, who made you in charge? And why are you so worried about one of the easiest routes when you climb at the opposite end of the scale? I did have some respect for you after hearing about your efforts on SYN, and recent attempts on trying to free TFC...Thats awesome you have replaced some of the last few old ' 1/4ers on weeping wall. If you want to help the crag in a positive way, there are plenty more bad bolts up there that need some replacing. Your actions on this surprise bolt can turn into a baby bolt war, or pissing contest. Either way, many do not want to see this go down here at suicide.
but who cares what I think. Im just another self described local that cares about bullshit going down at his favourite place to climb.
|
|
neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 10:46am PT
|
I say leave the bolt if clark wants it there...sometimes we have to trust the judgement of "our" valley giants...
|
|
Murf
climber
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:14am PT
|
Clark is a great guy. Personable, a font of information, and just an all around asset to the area.
That said, it doesn't give him license to retro bolt anything he wants. Surprise is not his route, and it was without that bolt for over 40 years. It isn't the first route Clark has added bolts to and its not the first of such bolts that was removed.
And somehow since Johannsolo climbs hard means he can't clean up a mess on a 5.8? He actually get props from me for caring enough about a route that is likely quite easy for him.
This isn't an issue. The ethics of the area are pretty well set. Don't add bolts to others lines, or to your own lines if they are shared with an preexisting route.
Johannsolo thanks for cleaning up the mess.
Murf
|
|
toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 11:25am PT
|
^^^^^^
+1
I can see both sides of the issue, but gotta ultimately agree with Murf
mainly because Surprise is such an historic route, should be preserved as FA party saw fit
also seems that Johannsolo has some cred up there
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
|
That said, it doesn't give him license to retro bolt anything he wants.
The bolt in question is not on Surprise but is instead on Clam Chowder. It is one of two bolts that were added to the first pitch of Clam Chowder about a month ago, and was put in by Clark Jacobs who was a member of the FA party (Clark Jacobs, Jay Smith, Jim Wood - 1973). After putting up the route they agreed bolts in the first pitch would have been good, and that eventually one of them could/would come back and do it at a later date. "
"The two new bolts on Clam Chowder were put in by a member of the FA party. So it would seem to merit consideration."
microcam
Nov 12, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
"I spoke to Clark this past weekend and he said he added the two bolts to the first pitch of Clam Chowder (not Surprise). "
Clark is incredibly honest about his actions, and I agree - he isn't the "servant" of Idyllwild.
I don't think anyone is.
Some people just need religion everywhere in their life...
Those bolts weren't necessary - none are. They likely won't be missed. However, those two things don't have to be true about all routes at Suicide.
Never fear, the sun will rise in the east and set in the west, and the world will go on largely unaware of the grumblings of mountain folk.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
|
Tempest in a teapot.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
|
teacup*
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!