A 'Surprise' bolt!

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 207 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Oct 5, 2012 - 06:35am PT
Don't y'all worry. I know how to patch it up so no one will know. This ain't my first rodeo. Clark will also be involved.
Ryans

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Oct 6, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
The two bolts in question are definitely on Clam Chowder, although P1 of Surprise and Clam Chowder are almost the same. Clark has the FA on Clam Chowder and placed the bolts.

Are the bolts absolutely necessary? Probably not.

Does the FA party want them there? Yes.

Clark has done a significant amount of work and spent much of his own money improving the safety of anchors and routes all over Tahquitz and Suicide. Clark climbs at Suicide more than any other person on Earth. Shouldn't we respect his desire to have the bolts on his own climb?

I do not want bolts added to classic climbs and test pieces, ever. That being said, is the first pitch of Clam Chowder a classic climb or test piece at the grade? Absolutely not.

I say leave them be. The two bolts are not hurting anybody; you can forego the clips if you feel inclined. Let's show some respect to a man who has done so much for this area. Let's show some respect to the desire of the FA party.

I rarely see people lining up to do Surprise anyway. Why are we obsessing about this? Nobody complains about rap anchors on the Sunshine Face. Nobody complains about rap anchors on Johnny Quest. Or atop Passtime/Frustration. None of those were done by the FA party. So if we're going to discuss removing added bolts, lets talk about those before we pull bolts on a climb placed by the FA party.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 6, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
^^^
I would have to agree, even though I have not climbed there in 35yrs,
I would say Clarks route his call.
Tad
henny

Social climber
The Past
Oct 6, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
The only reason the bolts were left in the first place was due to Clark having placed them on his own route, and wanting them to remain. Had it been someone else all of this would have been moot immediately. Johnny metioned that Clark would be involved, hopefully he has had his say. Their addition was a mistake, imo, particularly after so many years. If Clark has come around to the same conclusion then take them out. If he hasn't, then perhaps defer (as was done initially) to his wishes. Given the FA aspect I tend to agree with some of Ryans points.

Maybe time would be as well spent taking the retro bolt out of Pink Royd (button head without a hanger in the trough after the crux - I'm sure it is intented for use with a wire on it), or the two retro bolts out of the dihedral on the second of the Cross. The dihedral of the Cross has been led multiple times without any fixed gear. To my knowledge none of those bolts were placed by the FA party or with their approval.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Oct 6, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
Clark did not want any discussion. Said he would replace them if they were removed. Threatened to chop all the bolt anchors I have placed along with my project on Eagle pinnacle. Called me a weekend warrior. I guess they stay for now by my hand. The second one really is on Suprise though. Sad outcome for ethics. No one owns the rock, we are all just stewards.
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
-

oh well


guess we won't be standing on the shoulders of giants...just nibbling at their ankles





too bad Jacobs won't add to the discussion


-
henny

Social climber
The Past
Oct 6, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
Yeap, the second one really is on Surprise. That is the biggest shame of the whole thing.

I don't think Clark does the whole internet thing much.

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 7, 2012 - 06:22am PT
It's not like Clark is sitting in front of a laptop flirting with the "Post Reply" button. You'd more likely get an email from Dirk Diggler.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2012 - 09:47am PT
"Why are we obsessing about this?"

Excellent question.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 7, 2012 - 10:24am PT
We're obsessing about this thread, you started, because Surprise allowed us noobs/gumbies to venture onto the Weeping Wall w/o having the resquite skills or ballsack needed to do any other of the routes on the WW. After I did it for the first time in 76, it helped in my building my fledgling confidence. Yes it's not that hard but the distance one is likely to slide bolsters ones resolve not to mess up.
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Oct 7, 2012 - 11:58am PT
My guess is that Jacobs thinks that noobsters should not have to DIE on a pleasant weekend jaunt to Suicide Rocks..simple as that.

Of course that is open to debate.....



.
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Oct 7, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
I think you should apologize to Clark--Johansolo for overreacting and saying you would chop the bolts no matter what he says. Sounds like you guys know each other and will probably sit down and have a few beers. At wich time Clark should apologize to you about calling you a "weekend warrior" . Then in an non confrontational manner you should have a bolt discussion.

Just my .02 but if the conversation started out in a confrontational manner it would explain why it went the way it did.

peace Eric
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Yep, bolt is on Surprise. From yesterday...:

Surprise &#40;indeed!&#41; at Suicide 7 October 2012
Surprise (indeed!) at Suicide 7 October 2012
Credit: Brian in SLC

Jean shows her displeasure at the new addition.

Hadn't climbed the route in 25 or so years... Yeah, I clipped it (ha ha), mostly for clarity in the photo (I mean its barely 5th class there).

Great route.

Noticed the other bolt on Clam Chowder's first pitch, about 15 feet off the deck on that route.

Both nice stainless bolts. Powers. Spendy little rigs.

Easy enough to pull, but, bolt wars ain't no fun. And, that fine rock wouldn't be the winner for sure.
Cooker

Mountain climber
LA, CA
Oct 8, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
Call Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild if you want to talk to Clark Jacobs.
Or PM me and I'll send you his number.

Of course, how can you climb for long in Idyllwild without running into him...
BJGivens

Social climber
CA
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
"Hadn't climbed the route in 25 or so years... Yeah, I clipped it (ha ha), mostly for clarity in the photo (I mean its barely 5th class there)."

Congratulations your are a giant f*#king douche and a top notch pussy too.

I cant even imagine how it must feel to be that big of a douche, it must be very exhausting.

So you clipped a bolt you diss approve of and then get on the internet to talk sh#t about it?

The word Douche doesn't do you justice you f*#king piece of sh#t, and all your pals on this site can go f*#k yourselves.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
First post, huh?

Classy.
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
hahahahahaha.......popcorn anybody?
BJGivens

Social climber
CA
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
Yup and my second is to tell you your a f*#king sack of sh#t.
You f*#ks make me want to chisel some rock, f*#k you.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
^^^
BJGivens= TROLL
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Oct 9, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
That's more than Trolling, more like Drift Netting!
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