apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 10, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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So I was out at Suicide today, introducing the spicy fun of Suicide Slab routes to a good buddy of mine, and we decided to run up 'Surprise'. After describing the classic runout first pitch (a piece or two, a couple of 5.7 moves then ~50' of unprotected easy fifth class to the anchors), I launched off. Having done this route countless times over the last couple of decades, much to my surprise I found a nice, shiny, beefy bolt about 20' below the P1 anchors. WTF?!
Anybody know anything about this? I was last on Surprise about a year ago, and there was no bolt- this thing must have gone sometime this past season. I'm curious as to the rationale, as it is not in character with the historic 'feel' of the route, and wonder if the FA's (P. Callis, L. Reynolds) are aware of it, and what they think about it.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Nov 10, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Its so chopped! I will get on it ASAP.
On Surprise you place a manky cam and then gun it to the Belay.
So what if people have died and been seriously injured.
Juan
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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Lame! It's probably already gone.
Have people gotten hurt on Surprise?
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apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
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"It's probably already gone."
Not unless Juan has been there in the last 3 hours.
Cool your tuning fork, JDF- I'm pretty surprised by it, too, but let's see if anyone can provide insight to this before reacting. Then go chop that mofo.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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The lack of Pro on the first pitch is what makes Surprise - Well Surprise.
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locker
Social climber
Joshua Tree Ca
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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"Its so chopped! I will get on it ASAP."...
While you're at it...
Can you "CHOP" the THIRD (3rd) one some idiot added to "Double Cross"???...
The TWO (2) I put in last week "SHUD" be enough...
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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Double Cross is a totally different argument - The Bodies were piling up like fing Cordwood. The NPS demanded I place the bolts. They have saved lives.
Juan "Mr. T" De Fuca
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Shano
Trad climber
921OB
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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some friends and I did Samson for a warm-down a month or so back and noticed that the pitons on the 2nd pitch were all gone. Sounds like Sui is getting some makeovers!
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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I climbed surprise in the beginning of october, only pro on P1 was a cam in the flake before setting out onto the large dishes and scoops. No bolt then.
Pie
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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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I climbed it a few months ago, maybe August or September, not really sure. But there was no bolt then. So it hasn't been there for long.
Andy
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apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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The funny thing is that the bolt is on that 'good' ledge about 20' below the anchors- by the time you've made it that far, the last couple of moves are no big whoop. Just seems silly.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
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Are you sure you were on Surprise?.....I heard of a new route reciently put up between Duck Soup, and Continuation.....so maybe you were a wee bit to the left of Surprise?.....This new route (not mine, by the way...) was put up a few weeks ago , on the lead , hand drilled, by long time locals...........something to look into.....
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apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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Yes, Todd, quite sure. Been there, done that uncountable times over the years.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
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I climbed at Suicide this season and thought many routes were a bit too sporty. I have thoughtfully placed bolts on these so called classics to make them modern day classics. Please dont chop my bolts JDF, Suicide has some great sport climbing potential that must be explored. Peace!
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apogee
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
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Batrock, have you consulted with the first ascensionists before doing any of these retro-fits?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
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I'm sure that if Batrock had actually done anything of the sort, we'd long since have heard about it ad nauseam.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
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Batrock AKA Trollman
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Sewellymon
climber
.....in a single wide......
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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how many Weeping Wall squeeze jobs have been put up and chopped? i seem to recall on ST somebody mentioning they started chopping bolts while the FA party was finishing up on pitch 3. i also remember the "Korean Route". Might have been between Serpentine and 10 Caret? DEE went up the next day to climb, the chop...
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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Choppin' broccolli!!!!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Nov 10, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
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Batrock,
Cool if it was your bolt. I will let it stand. What do you think of adding some bolts to Flower of High Rank to protect the crack below the tree?
Peace
Juan
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