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crazygremlin
Trad climber
index, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
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anybody done breakfast of champions? its a 5.13 overhang and a really cool route.
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Subiralto
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 05:52pm PT
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Breakfast of Champoins is 10a
A nice climb never the less.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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anybody done breakfast of champions? its a 5.13 overhang
Hmmm. I always thought Breakfast of Champions was that thirty-foot slightly overhanging 5.10 handcrack at the top of Roger's Corner. Is that crack part of a longer route that involves 5.13 climbing? Or are you just referring to the fact that Index 5.10 is the equivalent of 5.13 anywhere else?
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Nov 12, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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You've got to be Studly to climb there!
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crazygremlin
Trad climber
index, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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arg.. sorry.. i was thinking of a 5.13 at the upper wall at the time and it screwed my head up.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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You've got to be Studly to climb there!
Oh, we all are. Definitely. Him too.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
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You probably could make BOC 5.13 if you approached it via "virgin in on the ridiculous" or a free version of "snow white".
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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Who can name the classic climb you can see almost none of in the below photo?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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Looks a little bit like the top of the second pitch of Rattletale
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
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Yup, p2 Rattletail. Just not the fun bit.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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City Park
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Nov 12, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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A friend of my wifes just got a shack up there on the river. Ill be spending some more time there for sure!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 13, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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Here are a few more shots of Rattletale -- which is a fine climb. There was another climb just to its left that was growing over, so we re-cleaned it and it turned out to be stellar as well. We later learned it is called Avenging the Goddess Kring.
This is the view off p2 of Rattletale seen from the approach.
Pitch three
This is the start of Avenging the Goddess Kring. The photo is by someone who goes by Alpinfox on cascadeclimbers.com (I think Mister E knows him). I lifted the photo from Cascade climbers and will delete it if alpinfox objects. But it's a good shot of a fine climb.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 09:47am PT
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I've never climbed at that area of Index Ghost. Looks like stellar splitters, and now I have to wait till Spring, bummer.
Here's first pitch flake of Dana's Arch. Bolted sport climb now and goes free at 11b, but also a great pitch to practice skyhooking move after move with no penalty.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Nov 13, 2009 - 10:04am PT
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My brother in law put up Little Phoenix-5.13 something. I know it's a shorter sport route but what's it like?
Arne
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crazygremlin
Trad climber
index, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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ynow, the weather in index has been pretty killer the past few days. all sunny, cold and sh#t..
anybody tried iron horse at the lower wall?
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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I've done short Iron Horse on TR and am hoping to lead it next time I'm out there on one of these dry cool high friction days instead of stuck working.
Who can name this upper wall (modern) classic?
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Nov 13, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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You guys are making me hate the work hell I've been stuck in. Once I get some more free time I am sure it will rain for 90 days straight.
Just thought I'd add a quick update of the LTW situation. Yesterday the Director of Wa State Parks drove to Index from Olympia to discuss not only the status of the LTW but of the entire area. It seems everyone values the area but there is a still a lot of work to be done.
Here's a pic Bringmedeath took of the Golden Arch route. Only a body length section just before the belay hasn't been freed on this pitch:
I am pretty sure this corner has never had a second ascent:
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MH2
climber
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Nov 13, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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Nothing to do with 5.13 but here is a route right at the boundary of the self-quarrying of the Lower Wall in the 80s. Rock dust in the crack prompted Max to turn over the lead because of risk to his contacts.
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