routes In Index WA

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 162 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 17, 2016 - 01:22pm PT
Steve...Squamish isn't in the Pacific Northwest. It's in Canada which for them would be the Pacific Southwest.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 17, 2016 - 04:46pm PT
Steve...Squamish isn't in the Pacific Northwest. It's in Canada which for them would be the Pacific Southwest.

Just back from quaffing a few with Steve after a long bike ride. I had to explain the same thing to him...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 17, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
I stagger corrected...
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 17, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
Mastadon. I do remember climbing Godzilla with you back in the eighties sometime. Clearly that once lucid memory of yours is fading or I forgot that we brought some pins.
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Jul 17, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
Dave, I was speaking metaphorically to that young woman. It was for effect. When did you become such a nit-picky little bi#ch?? Actually, I have no memory whatsoever of you and i doing that..... Actually, I'm still trying to figure out who you are. Actually, oh never mind. I have CRS (can't remember s#it) and a bad case of CDSA (can't do s#it anymore).
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 17, 2016 - 10:32pm PT
I bet you still remember how to correct understeer in yer little hot rod!
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 18, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
Don, why don't you come up for a visit and we can give it a whirl. I have some pitons and we can record it on our phones so we will never forget. That is if I can remember where my phone is.....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 18, 2016 - 07:04pm PT
I remember leading it on stoppers and hexes in 1976, and I know Don did it before that, since his name was already in the guidebook!
171. Godzilla FA: Don Harder, Donn Heller, 5/72
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Jul 18, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
Clint-you are the absolute master of information and trivia. I don't know what we would do without you.

Dave-we would have to do move by move photos, video and descriptions and then tweet it for all to see. If you don't know how to tweet, ask your boy. If you don't know what tweeting is, there's no hope.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 18, 2016 - 11:10pm PT
Clint wrote a fine guide to Index brother so he knows the details very well.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 19, 2016 - 07:11am PT
I agree that Godzilla to Slow Children is an excellent outing. Two four star pitches with an okay connecting one.
Jon Nelson

Boulder climber
Bellingham, WA
Aug 26, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
Very entertaining forum here...

Here’s few more shots of Index in the 70’s….

Dave Anderson and I tried to free Japanese Garden in the summer of 1975. We both took a swing at it but neither of us was willing to commit with only hexes for protection in the wide section. Once again, there wasn’t a soul to be seen or heard. These shots are of Dave Anderson-another good friend gone......

I'm curious about the FFA of pitch one of Japanese Gardens. I recall it, or most of it, being free by the early 80s with the name "Through thick and thin". Does anyone here recall anything about this?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 26, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
Jon,
 1976 Carlstad and Brooks: calls it Japanese Tea Garden and shows a 5.9 wide flake var to the left.
 1976 Beckey: calls it Japanese Gardens. "Most of the climb is now free and should not be nailed". My penciled notes (1976 or 1977) say it's free to the bolt at 5.10.
 1982 Brooks and Whitelaw: Through Thick and Thin 5.11+. Goes up the 5.9 wide flake var past 3 bolts, with 5.11+ after 3rd bolt. No FA info in book.

Later guides list it as Japanese Gardens 5.11c, with you and Terry Lien doing the complete FFA of all the pitches.
So maybe ask Don Brooks?
Jon Nelson

Boulder climber
Bellingham, WA
Aug 26, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
Thanks Clint.

That must have been where I saw it, in the Brooks-Whitelaw book. In that case, I might have learned of it well after Terry and I did the route, as I didn't bother getting the B-W guidebook until much later. When I recently asked Terry about it, it was the first he'd heard of Through Thick & Thin.

Similarly, I recall scoping out Rattletale from town, and going up there with Jon Carpenter & Russell Erickson in the early 80s. We did two pitches, thinking we were cruising up a relatively clean FA, even coming up with our own name for it, and then when I got to the top of P3 I noticed the slings...

BTW, do you have contact info for Don Brooks?

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Aug 26, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
any bouldering up there? is that near the illegal whorehauser land near mineral? i need to get on a 5.7 slab before the weather,
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 27, 2016 - 01:15am PT
Jon,
I don't have contact info for Don Brooks, but on the previous page in this thread, Don Harder (aka mastadon) has a photo of Don Brooks on El Cap from only 2 years ago, so try him!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1007138&msg=2845553#msg2845553
Jon Nelson

Boulder climber
Bellingham, WA
Aug 27, 2016 - 07:53am PT
any bouldering up there? is that near the illegal whorehauser land near mineral? i need to get on a 5.7 slab before the weather,

They tell me there is lots up here. I haven't been able to check since arriving due to a knee injury.

And thanks again, Clint.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 27, 2016 - 11:50am PT
If you can't reach Mastadon PM me and I can put you in touch with Don.
Jon Nelson

Boulder climber
Bellingham, WA
Sep 10, 2016 - 11:34am PT
If you can't reach Mastadon PM me and I can put you in touch with Don.

Thanks a lot for the offer.

But I cannot seem to find the message system on this site. Where do I find it?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 10, 2016 - 11:50am PT
But I cannot seem to find the message system on this site. Where do I find it?

Click on a poster's avatar, top left, beside the post. That'll pop up a profile, in which the bottom line says "Member-to-Member Messsages" There is a line following, which usually says "Yes, you can send me a member-to-member email." If so, then look at the top right, where there will be a button that says "Send Email to Jon Nelson"

But be aware that half the time the message either somehow doesn't go through, or the person set up his/her account years ago, using an email address that s/he no longer remembers having, let alone ever checks.

And btw, thanks for the saw.
Messages 121 - 140 of total 162 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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