The Nose In A Day, by Mark Hudon

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426

climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Nov 8, 2009 - 08:54am PT
Nice stuff Mark, grats. Does that compression 'feeling' ever happen on new routes/moves? It does to me. I must be gettin old
mpandy

Trad climber
Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 8, 2009 - 09:05am PT
Awesome!

Hey - where'd you get your list of 11 exercises? Just curious what weight training you did? (Not that I think weight lifting will get me up the Nose, jsut curious that's all).

Double D

climber
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:17am PT
Wow, proud send Mark. I really enjoyed the read. It's nice to see that old men can still crank.

mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:19am PT
Really impressive ascent, and great story, Mark! I was working at A-16 in San Diego when you guys came down and gave your "Long, Hard, and Free" (or something like that) slideshow in '81 or '82 (I also remember your inclusion of Friends--which were pretty new to the scene--in some of your shots: "A group of Friends around the campfire," etc.).

I thought you guys were pretty amazing then, and to pull this off 35 years later is pretty dang inspiring.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:26am PT
It took awhile to figure out what to say about this feat.

It's an amazing inspiration. WOW!

Thank you Mark

Bill
crossman04

Trad climber
san diego, ca
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:36am PT
quite an inspiring story. great post!
TomKimbrough

Social climber
Salt Lake City
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:43am PT
I wonder about the 60 and over time record. As I recall George Lowe did NIAD at 60 swinging leads. But he gets three asterisks.... He did it with Alex Lowe! I don't remember what their time was.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Great trip report Mark,
Thanks for writing it.
Zander
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:38am PT
Great report. Congrats for a great goal and achievement, Mark.

Though I never quite understood the need for short fixing, unless one is going for the absolute record time. It seems to me that the energy saved by leading blocks of pitches, with a real belay, will result in a similar time savings in the long run.

hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:40am PT
Great account of your adventure Mark. Its inspiring for younger guys like me to read this and realize that maybe it doesn't all have to happen right now and it can still be happening then.


Im still going to try to make it all happen now though....


Thanks for writing!
senderbender

Mountain climber
hood river or.
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:53am PT
Great report on a awesome climb! well done-feeling the stoke Mark. Guess your ready for Index :)
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Great TR Mark. Thanks for the thoughts and the inspiration for us 50YOs.
Mal
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
Great report! Way to grab a goal and just hang with it to the end.

Mark, I am really happy that the ascent of the Nose by Jeanette and myself inspired you to do this, I take it as a huge comment to think we inspired you!

When Jeanette and I called you and Peggy from the side of El Cap, your psych came through the phone and really re-ignited our weary eyed team.

I know we would have had a blast doing this project and I wish we had been able to do it together, but it looks like Mr. Fine did a really great job as your partner.

You mention an awful lot of free climbing with very little gear. Nice to see you pulling down so hard.

Way to GO!
Jay Renneberg
John Fine

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
No river when we got down - just AFS therapy (Alcohol, Food, Sleep). Repeated until the the full benefit was achieved.

It was a superb adventure.

-John

http://homepage.newschool.edu/~wrightd/cavafy-ithaka.html
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
Great job!

I'm adding you to my list of over 50 inspirationals, along with Galen.

Since he was kind of super-human physically, your accomplishment is even more helpful- especially the training.

Could you elaborate a bit on your training regimen?


Thanks,

Jay
Jack Burns

climber
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
Awesome, awesome, awesome!

I tried to onsight the NIAD back in 2000 when my ego was larger than my forearms. Realized at the base that my partner didn't want to short-fix. Got to the top of the Boot in 12 hours with no water left and we bailed. A great day of climbing on spectacular stone, nonetheless. Climbers seem to portray the climbing on the Nose as no big deal but I was really surprised at all the "meat and potatoes" climbing involved. The "5.8" fists below the Jardine Traverse spanked me good and I was in full-on aid mode on the Boot Flake 10c hands. I remember asking one of my friends who had done the NIAD about it and he said it's the hardest thing he's done, ever. This was a guy who would onsight 5.13 regularly and had a bunch of scary trad routes under his belt.

Congratulations, Mark. Leading the whole route is PROUD. This TR has me all sorts of psyched to start training and give the NIAD another try next year.
10b4me

Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
one of the better trip reports on Supertopo(imo).
thanks.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
Nice work lads! I remember you and Max from BITD. I always thought it was your lack of height that let you climb so well... at least that was the excuse I gave my 6'1" sad sac of a self.

By the way, with age... Mark Hudon=Jeremy Piven
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
Well done Mark and fun report.

Randy V
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Thanks to everyone again.

I'm telling you, honest to god, inspiring people is as much of a reward as actually doing the climb.
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