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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 5, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
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That's right Pilgrims! He just heard two days ago. Wonderful writer and wonderful man! One of my closest friends and whom I have known for forty years. Hurrah!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Congratulations Doug and thanks for letting us know, Peter.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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Got this news from Doug a few days ago.
Congrats Doug, very happy for you. And we all know... it's well deserved.
Doug on his home turf:
©2009 Jim Herrington
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Well Deserved, Mr. Doug!
Congratulations!!!!1
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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very happy for you DR!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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HUZZAH!!!
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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A Big Two Thumbs Up!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Three cheers for the man for all seasons!!!
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WandaFuca
Social climber
From the gettin place
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BITD, I'd say hell yes, but my enthusiasm can't help but be muted since he's been Growing Up.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Those sports rappers get away with all kinds of shit!
Very, very, Cool Doug, and way, too long in coming, congratulations!
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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a well deserved honor....now everyone hightail it to Bishop to see his first public appearance since the award was announced, this Saturday night!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Congratulations! Very much enjoy DR's writing!
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Sam R
climber
Millbrae, CA
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Way overdue! Congrats, Doug. See you Sat night!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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doug, congrats on this! you deserve this and much more. i have a well worn copy of "a night on the ground a day in the open". that book really captures the sierra in way i have rarely found. good job to you!! david
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Yippee!!
Your articles "Climber as Visionary", "Clean Climbing Manifesto", and "Running Talus", had deep influence on my development as an eager teen explorer!
A well deserved, long overdue honor!
Big Congrats!
Peter
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Doug, keep on writing. You have so much to work with. Congrats big time!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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All those have their place, but the bathroom stall limericks resonate with me.
congrats Doug.
(kidding, Doug is the bard of the climbing community, a kind soul brimming with talent and understanding)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Congratulations, Doug. You speak to and for all of us.
Best, Roger
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Double D
climber
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Nice job Doug.
Running Talus...nuf said.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Congrats Dougie. You're the Man!!
Peace
Karl
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BillO
Boulder climber
Whittier, CA
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Congrats Doug!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Congratulations!
Just don't be getting any funny ideas about streaking or mooning the awards committee.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Way to go, Doug! Happy to see this.
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hooblie
climber
"i used to care, but things have changed"
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nicely done doug. your skills will serve you well when pressed to describe the dazzling lights and rarefied air. but first catch your breath, we'll be holding ours. oh, and i'd be a little leery of largo, crushing handshake and all.
that's just how it's gotta be, amongst the titans
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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nice Doug. very well deserved. kudos.
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WBraun
climber
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Congratulations Doug
Thanks for everything ......
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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The Literary Award was established to recognize excellence in alpine literature by American writers. Recipients of the award have contributed extensively and over many years to mountain literature. Recipients are not selected through a submission process.
Past recipients:
John E. Harlin III Awarded: 2008
Alison Osius Awarded: 2007
John Long Awarded: 2006
John Sherman Awarded: 2005
Mark Jenkins Awarded: 2004
Bradford Washburn Awarded: 2003
Galen Rowell Awarded: 2003
Tami Knight Awarded: 2003
Rick Ridgeway Awarded: 2002
Audrey Salkeld Awarded: 1999
Michael Kennedy Awarded: 1998
Broughton Coburn Awarded: 1997
Jonathan Waterman Awarded: 1996
Allen Steck Awarded: 1995
Steve Roper Awarded: 1995
Elizabeth Hawley Awarded: 1994
Jeff Long Awarded: 1993
David S. Roberts Awarded: 1992
Ed Webster Awarded: 1990
H. Adams Carter Awarded: 1988
Greg Child Awarded: 1987
Jonathan Roblee Krakauer Awarded: 1986
So that makes four recipients who sometimes post here, and maybe a lurker or two.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Super great to meet you at the FaceLift this Summer in the Ditch, Doug Robinson ! Here's Doug on left, Dave Yerian and Matt C. along with our wonderful Anastasia. :D
Here's Doug, Lynnie and Dave. We had such a fun time yakkin'. Funny how the great and well read are also shoeless and just a blast to spend time with. :DD Lynnie
Big Congrats to YO Sir....Really !!!! How incredible are your laurels ?!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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wonderful recognition for a thoughtful writer
If you are more at home
In the mountains than anywhere
You are a mountaineer.
No climbing is required.
Being among the peaks
It will arise spontaneously
With no other motive
Or justification
Than itself.
To be a mountaineer
Is first to love the mountains
Then to climb them.
Technique
Can never replace
Devotion.
 Doug Robinson
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em knot
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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Doug's "Moving Over Stone" got me started back on rock in the 80s -- it's still one of the best instructional and inspirational climbing videos ever.
Congratulations on the award!
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Well deserved! Congratulations Doug.
Brian
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nita
Social climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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Congratulations!.. MR Robinson..
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Doug - my mentor, my friend - you've written my mind and feelings for decades. It's nice that you're getting some well-deserved recognition.
You are a glowing gem in our midst.
-MuchLoveFromJellow
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WandaFuca
Social climber
From the gettin place
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No one cares what I think, but upon further reflection . . .
. . . if I average all of your ink & paper (let alone those inscribed on stone) creations, I have to give you a 9.75--I guess I really can't think of anyone more deserving.
Bravo!1
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Fletcher
Trad climber
somewhere approaching Ajna
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That's some fine company you've joined. Congrats Doug and thanks for all that you've given.
Doug's poem Ed posted is a keeper!
Eric
EDITED to clarify that the poem is written by DR.
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10b4me
Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
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congratulations Doug, its well deserved.
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Pretty good company Doug. Congratulations.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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that poem is one from DR himself
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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This makes me very happy. I have known Doug for over half of my life, and always kept in touch. He has tons of notes and jots that he has taken over the years, and I always bitch at him for not putting more of it down on paper. He has been getting pretty productive and is still pulling down. He can write about Pratt because he climbed with Pratt. Most of those guys are nursing arthritis by now. Doug was just born to be in the mountains. He lives a life of pure joy when he can leave the baggage of the flat land behind. I still owe him a case of wine that I pilfered when he was gone for a few months. I wonder if he still takes Randolph Hearst 3rd on the annual ski trip across the Sierra.
Our lives can go in many directions, but he has remained true no matter what the cost down low. I expect he will die at 100 somewhere up in the Sierra skiing way back out there somewhere. Sumbitch still doesn't even use chalk. I doubt he has ever placed a bolt in his life except on Half Dome, and precious few of those. He was along for the ride on what he thought was a beautiful route.
I am a little down in the mouth today. I am a petroleum geologist and we just planted a million dollar steering tool and got stuck wayyyy out in a horizontal well. I only own a fraction, but it is going to cost me about as much as a house if we can't free it.
Ahh, the oil business. If you want to make a million dollars, you start out with two million.
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Fantastic! A well-deserved award.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Three cheers for Doug Robinson !!!
May he continue to bring us much reading pleasure while carving big graceful arcs with his pen.
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Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA
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Congratulations to Doug, they couldn’t have made a better choice. Doug is a great writer, great inspiration and all around great guy. I only wish he would write and publish more.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Big congrats to you Doug, looking forward to the slide show.
Lovely poem. :)
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Super DR!
Luv yah mate..
Now get to work on that Pratt book.
See you in the Cruz in a week or so.
cheers
Guido
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Sure made me happy to see this Doug, first thing this morning. Resounding Congratulations to you on this fine summit, echoing against every rampart and filling every cleft of the range! -Bruce Adams
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Outstanding!
Congrats, Doug, and thanks for being you!
-Brian in SLC
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captain chaos
climber
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Congratulations Doug... very cool, its well deserved, I'm happy for you- Craig
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BW
climber
Big Pine, CA
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If Doug hadn’t spent so much of his enormous talent writing about wildness in the vertical world and instead invested his energies in lowdown topics that a mainstream audience could comprehend, he’d be getting the Pulitzer. This is not to disparage the award—we’ll take what we can get and are blessed—but Doug is in a league of his own when it comes to deeply articulating what happens to us when we put heart and mind, hands and feet to stone.
There are few writers that come even close to Doug’s craft. His work warrants re-reading time and again. It is writing that is relevant long past the dog-ears and unraveled spine of his book, the faded copies of the mags where his words have appeared. I just wish there were more of it. Wish Doug wrote faster. Wish he could be paid properly to devote all his low-country time to writing. Maybe this award will be a step in the right direction to make this happen. Stay tuned… His next book is going to blow the roof off.
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L
climber
Waist deep in 'gators and still grinnin'...
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Big congrats to you, Doug! This is a well-deserved honor.
Now get back to pounding them keys! ;-)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 07:17pm PT
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Here it is, Pilgrims. The award long yearned for:
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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just saw this--
very nice
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Awesome, Peter!!!!
And another great big CONGRATULATIONS, Doug!!!!
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BW
climber
Big Pine, CA
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Peter, that's some mighty fine and truthful Photoshopping. Welcome to hang that 'round any of my measly photos of the good man.
Wondering if the good folks in Norway gave him the peace or the lit prize. Reckon he deserves both on some accounts.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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The Peace prize has already been taken (g) for the year (g), BW. But yeah, what a peaceful lovely soul.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Congratulations Doug this is a wonderfully deserved honor. Your writing has moved me from the beginning, eliciting the truth I felt within. You defined the direction I took my climbing. Thank you for all you have given us.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Congratulation Sir Robison my friend.! A bit over due. But it makes this disciple very proud!
Bruce.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Great work! Good job! A well deserved award.
I recall with strong clarity what your words meant in those confusing formative years.
I can tell you with certainty what comfort your words are today.
May your lungs be filled with the wind from the mountains.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Doug's writings captured our imaginations and shaped several generations of climbers. An award long overdue and well-deserved.
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Rock on, Doug! Congratulations!!!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Thank you Peter, and thanks every one for the fine words.
I am indeed on the road; hadn't even thought to check the Taco for days. I'm stressing a bit about pulling this slide show together for tonight. Adventures in PowerPoint, adventures in scanning, adventures in plugs to hook the computer to the projector. Been 'midnite musing' about adding tunes behind some of it, but that will have to wait 'till next time.
Uh, Bruce...slight correction. Here's the proper orientation of the photo you posted.
I always liked this photo, being a fan of disorientation in its many guises. So I figured it was a stroke of genius on Gordon Wiltsie's part to cut it into a circle, as the move is sideqays anyway.
BTW, this is the Buttermilk, early on (those shoes are a giveaway). The climb came to be known as the Circle Boulder. Took me many weeks to send it, though now it's a warmup for Saigon down on the corner of the same superb stone.
Thanks again for noticing, and Cheers!
Doug
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Are those Black Beauties on your feet, Doug!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Another one of my favorite pics of Doug was taken of him on the "Jesus is coming soon, repent" clifflet right near Bishop. Anybody got that one to post here? It's on the last page of Ascent 1975/1976.
That important, though somewhat faded message is still there on that cliff behind some ramshackle houses, next to an off-width...how appropriate!
Congratulations to Doug! He's more than a writer, a true visionary.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That would be the "get right with God" crack just off 395.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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The "Get Right with God Crack"
Congratulations Doug.
I can't imagine you and the techno-wizards not melding somehow!!
TC
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I wonder if the landowner will still threaten to shoot you for Getting Right with God (left side in or right side in) on his property?!? LOL
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Well DR. you know I have alway's been a bit disorientated anyway!
Bruce.
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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Well Deserved Doug,
When I first read "A Night on the Ground a Day in the Open", I had never been to the Range of Light. Doug's descriptions and stories made the Sierras come alive in my imagination. I got through many boring lectures at Emory day-dreaming about running down talus fields after cruising up a white granite peak, and gazing at stars with cool mountain air and the shadows of mountains surrounding me.
I still credit you Doug, for being another beacon in my sub-conscious mind to come out to the Sierras and to be a part of the wilderness of this awesome range!
Cheers,
Jesse McGahey
Yosemite Climbing Ranger
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travelin_light
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Way to go Doug! What an accomplishment!
Charles I.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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DR-
Congrats, and thanks a lot for the inspiration you've provided me.
"Glass hand dissolving to ice petal flowers revolving".
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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Nov 13, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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Talus Bumping.
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BW
climber
Big Pine, CA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Clever scree, Jim
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 13, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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Dawg, Doug, That's the California Quarter coming out on December 1st, isn't it?
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FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
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Nov 13, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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His book is my favorite collection of climbing writing...that has been read over and over again.
Cheers to DR!
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wskish
Mountain climber
Saratoga, CA
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Nov 13, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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DR definitely deserves it!. Congrats Doug. "A Night on the Ground..." is the first book I reach for when I'm missing the mountains.
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scuffy b
climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
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Nov 13, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Congratulations, Doug.
Thanks for all your good writing over the years.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Nov 14, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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DR thinking, that with just a little bit of practice, and discipline he could be the first person in history to get both the Nobel Prize for Literature and Medicine concurrently.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 14, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Cheers DR. Keep it coming.
Funny that BASE104 mentioned the annual trips w/ WRH III. Brought back some memories. I remember one spring morning towing your red Honda to town, picking said individual up at the airport, taking him to Wheeler's where he geared up. Then giving you two a ride to the North Lake trailhead. Your pack had to weigh 80 lbs. Christ, it was bigger than you!
If BASE104 ever repays you that case of wine, I hope he delivers it personally. I'd like to see that crusty guy again.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 14, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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Doug!
I am glad you chose the 'Eastside' or perhaps it chose you, whatever, we are all benefactors.
Congratulations, and thanks for all your contributions!
Trip~
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 14, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
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Hey Trip,
I was 15 when I stumbled onto the Eastside. I'd been working the West for years -- actually for an even decade starting with summers camped right on the shore of Tenaya Lake when there was still a campground by the outlet. A little older, after hiking the Sierra Camp loop with my folks -- Vogelsang, Merced Lake, Glen Aulin, where you could stay in tent cabins just like Curry -- I went off to Boy Scout Camp Oljato on Huntington Lake and learned to backpack.
I loved the self-sufficiency carrying me deeper into the Sierra. Adventure with pack frames. Evolution Valley -- now we're getting out there! I scrambled up a steep gully on the north side of Mt. Mendel one day. It didn't have too much ice, but my Dad got pretty concerned. So the next day I went up over easier talus to Lamarck Col.
And there it was. I had no name for Eastside. In fact it had never occurred to me that the Sierra might end, and there would be desert beyond. It was all so amazing! I stared and stared.
That was 1960. I was sitting astride the Sierra Crest for the very first time on a corner of the Mt. Goddard Quadrangle. If you had told me that day that in six years I'd be guiding those Palisades peaks I could see right down the range, or that in nine years I would move into a cabin just down there along Bishop Creek -- that I'd actually live on the edge of this map -- and start bouldering in the Buttermilk a little ways beyond?
Shut Up!
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 14, 2009 - 10:18pm PT
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Doug- "Shut Up!".
Please don't, you have so much to share. What an incredible story. I could feel the pull, up...up...places I can only dream of now. Continue to take us there Doug...you have lived our dreams.
Trip~
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Nov 14, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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In the midst of a great one
At Facelift 09
Didn't quite realize
How lucky was I!
Yerian, too, said Hello, how are you?
Found out later just exactly who I was talking to.
Congratultions, Doug!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:25am PT
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Hi Joey, Hope all is well. Great to spend so much time with you at the Lift this year.
My point exactly. Truly cool gifted people are so fun to be with and real and their presence enriches. Why, cause it ain't "all about them." imho, lynnie
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:40am PT
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Right on Lynne,
so cool, right place, right time,
Lucky me, lucky us.
Yeah!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 01:52am PT
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Wow, my first 'alpine' experience was on Mendel also! I was 13 or 14 and on my first real backpacking trip too. We camped at the base of Mendel. The old guys, in their 30's, took a nap. I looked up at the west shoulder of Mendel and went for it not knowing nothing. I got pretty far up it before reason kicked in.
Keep on keepin' on Doug! You're an inspiration.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 15, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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Doug- "It was all so amazing, I stared and stared".
It sounds like you had wonderful parents! I was dieing to get into a boyscout troop, finally when I turned thirteen we moved from San Diego to SLC, Utah. And I joined a scout troop there. Took two trips into the High Uintas and the East Fork of the Bear River. To me, it was a dream come true. Nothing like the Sierra though.
I remember seeing a movie of a family on a section of the Muir trail following it into the Valley. I was in second grade. I sat there in awe, I was viewing paradise. I lived in New York then it was 1957. I don't have the words to describe the beauty and the wonder. I'll borrow your words to use here again "It was all so amazing, I stared and stared." That's when the seed was planted.
Thanks Again.
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MW
Mountain climber
Far away
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Nov 15, 2009 - 04:47am PT
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Congratulations, Doug. Well deserved. (And probably long overdue.) You don't know me, but we met once at one of your book signings for "A Night on the Ground ..." Can't tell how much I've cherished it over the years.
Your last post confirmed something only hinted at in the book: Camp Oljato.
I also learned to backpack up there and eventually led trips (in the 80s we called it the "Keyhole trek") over Alpine Col.
Proud to have walked in your footsteps.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 07:55am PT
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John -- I'd forgotten all about you towing my red Honda into Bishop and picking up Hearst. Couldn't be the drugs... I do remember steering my car behind you, actually, tied onto your bumper with an old chunk of 9 mm rope. I think it was a piece left over from Half Dome, the rope I'd led the Robbins Chimney on. Stout, one of my best leads ever. I was amazed how tough that retired rope was and started testing it, yawing back and forth across the empty back road and getting on the brakes. Frayed it some more, but it wouldn't break. Thanks for the lift. I owe ya. And I appreciate you coming all the way to my show last week.
As to my parents, I didn't appreciate their special beings until later. You grow up, and whatever it is, that's normal. So camping on the shore of Tenaya Lake and building rafts to pole out to those shiny rock islands was just what kids did. Lucky me -- the Sierra had me totally spoiled right from the start.
My Dad first went to Tuolumne in 1927. He drove his new Model A up the coast road from Santa Monica to go to Stanford -- could barely make it that far in a day then. In his last year or so I pulled off of 101 with him, where it climbs over the Santa Lucias just north of San Luis Obispo. There's a chunk of the old road there, narrow 2-lane cement, and I taped him telling the story of that drive. Anyway, once he hit NorCal he started exploring the Meadows. Barely more than 20 years later, after a stint in Europe during WWII spying on German airplane factories (he was an aeronautical engineer), he was driving me over the same old Tioga Road, bumping through the forest and right across granite slabs, to my first glimpse of the high country.
I had to start small, on the narrow strip of beach and throwing wood chips into the campfire, but having that horizon of domes beyond, and hiking around the lake, calibrated my sense of distance and possibility. The Sierra was already inviting me into motion.
My Mom, whose life didn't run out until this September, was the poet. I have her to thank for kneeling in the woods to marvel at tiny details, and expressing their surprise. Her father had been a canoe guide in the North Woods of Wisconsin, a small town postmanster and an early conservationist. A lot of threads to come together on the bright sand by Tenaya Lake.
Galen Rowell once lamented that if I'd been a little more ambitious I would have gotten a lot more FAs. But that was his hangup. I'm built to contemplate, and trained to it too. My Dad sat reading, propped against a boulder and looking up at the sparkle off the lake. I've done my share of tearing around the Sierra, measuring passes anaerobically, and I'm still addicted to that. But alongside it there's a far quieter, more reflective side poised on the edge of the alpine zone, and I'm equally thrilled to linger there too.
Serial replies here; nice conversation about growing into respnding to a pretty special range of mountains.
By the way, I found out much later that I had barely missed meeting Alan Bard at Tenaya. It seemed his family camped there two weeks before mine every year.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 08:35am PT
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Yeah Reilly, we must have been thinking the same thing up on Darwin Bench. The gully I headed up was the first one around to the north from that west ridge of Mendel. At least that's what I recall. Have to go take another look, eh? I'd like to check out more of that ridge in general, now that Peter Croft raves so much about it being the best high traverse in the Sierra.
The "Keyhole Trek" from Camp Oljato -- that actually went over Alpine Col -- was the one I started on those early trips pulling over timberline. A first time to try out the alpine zone, to get off trail and explore, to forge my way across country, though of course both those notches in the Glacier Divide were laid out in the guidebook. It was my first experience of guiding too, of leading a trip, even though I had my Dad for a backup, and encouragement from Mike Meixner, the Assistant Director of the camp. It was pretty heady to be leading a 6-day backpack trip at 15. Thought I was hot stuff.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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Trip -- I never got too far into those mountains behind SLC, though from photos and from the enthusiasm of Tom Frost I have projects in mind up there. What's that beautiful alpine basin, the one with the small but finely formed granite peaks? Lone Peak Cirque -- that's it!
Sheridan Anderson used to talk about growing up in the country just north of there. East of Ogden, I think. His uncle took him fishing out there. Maybe I shouldn't even say so, but you know the passage at the end of the Curtis Creek Manifesto -- a book that many who know enough to judge call the finest fly fishing manual ever -- Sheridan raises the question, "Is there really a Curtis Creek? Quite possibly, my darlings, quite possibly..." Well, this is not only off topic but the wrong forum for that. But perhaps it's OK at this great distance to say that Sheridan implied that Curtis Creek actually flowed through those mountains.
I told the story last week at my slideshow of how Sheridan brought me to Bishop in 1966, when I drove there with my gear crammed into an MG Midget. Somewhere I have a slide I couldn't find for that, of camping with him at Blue Lake up the Middle Fork of Bishop Creek. Sheridan introduced me to Smoke Blanchard that summer, and that's how I got to meet the curmudgeon surfing on Smoke's couch, Norman Clyde.
Here's Sheridan a year or two before that, exulting on the Royal Arches. If you look over his shoulder, there's the Rotten Log.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 10:31am PT
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Here, this is the best I can do with that itty bitty file:
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 11:22am PT
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Oh Peter, thanks! You cheered it up a lot. Didn't realize the file was tiny; I have recently re-located the slide, so I'll scan it up big and then you can really work it over. Sheridan deserves no less.
I have an audio tape he made just a few days before he died. Sheridan knew he was going to die, though I was far too deep in denial to hear him at the time. We went out for supplies, which besides a blank cassette included a fifth of Jack Daniels and a case of beer. This was in Vegas right after one of the winter trade shows when the outdoor industry used to pigyback on the Ski Industries of America at the Convention Center.
Sheridan was living with his granny in a walkup apartment up on Charleston, to "take care of her." She was pushing a hundred, but it was an open question who was taking care of whom. He pulled his boom box out onto the formica kitchen table, uncapped the Jack, pressed record and got down to business. Granny was watching wrestling in the next room. He knew I would be worthless at remembering accurately what he had to say, but I was the only friend who showed up so he was taking no chances. I did not do my share of the talking or the drinking that night, but I still have the tape and one of these days we can transcribe it and get a really rip-roaring Sheridan thread going.
I have plenty of other Sheridan artwork -- original and unpublished -- to share too. Some of it a unique form of "comic chess" played by passing the drawing board back and forth with other artists at his flat on Potrero Hill.
I never got to accompany Sheridan to what seemed to be his main social outlet those final years living with his granny -- a strip club. He kept suggesting it, and I guess I was too broke and too prudish to loosen up and see that it would have been a rare chance to watch him work a pretty interesting venue. Think Toulouse-Lautrec at the Follies Bergere, only scaled up to Sheridan's frame, ported out to six-four and well-over-300-pounds. He would regularly take his sketch pad into a bar and use it to introduce himself to the whole room. And not just the Mountain Room in the Valley, either. In the Sixties I'd seen Sheridan stride into many a North Beach hang, and the Blarney Stone in Cow Hollow that had killer fish-n-chips right out back. And when I returned, to work at the startup of Outside Magazine in '77, Sheridan was still there and came up to the office and dragged the whole staff, Hearst included, either across Third Street or to his then favorite Irish Pub out on California Street in the early Avenues. It changed the entire evening for everyone present. Can you say raconteur?
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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Nov 15, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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We're listening... just keep talking...
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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OK Jim, I'll try...but first I gotta go help my daughter with her homework.
Hey, can I use your portrait for my little emblem or persona or -- what do the kids call those things on My Space Out anyway -- an Avatar?
Kind of a cool name, actually, with mythic overtones. I like the way yours looks, though they are so damn small that nearly everyone else's little picture is too tiny to make out what the hell mood they're intending.
Peter's new one is good, though.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Tami, oh Dougie has tons on Sheridan--- as he says upriver here, images too. It will take some time plus Dougie is really busy with a whole bunch of projects currently.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Nov 15, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Doug, if you want to see people's avatar photo/icon/thingie in somewhat larger size, simply double click on the image itself, or click on the person's 'name' under the image - i.e. click on the "DR". Either way, you get something about four times the size of the original.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 15, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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Doug,
Since this is a literary thread, would you care to share the first piece that you wrote which truly pleased you?
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 15, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Doug, I had the opportunity to meet you once, or at least introduce my self. Perhaps you will remember. Actually, it was one of those situations best forgotten, but ....
Don't recall the year maybe late '70's. Mammoth, cold winter night. There were probably a hundred better things to do, yet I find myself leaning against a rail overlooking a barren dance floor. Occasionally one or two couples would shuffle out onto the floor to dance to what I supposed was their favorite song.
I was about to leave when suddenly the Millis, wearing his over-sized tattered duvet, with his coveted Peruvian-wool hat(ear flaps and long toggles) walks in, strolls over and joins me at the rail. We make eye contact, he takes a deep breath and looks as though he is about to say something, then suddenly swings his head around to his right and there you were. His way of bringing your presence to my attention.
Granted, the music would limit an introduction to a nod or a handshake, but Millis saw the opportunity to yank my chain a little I suppose. We had discussed many of your adventures and he new I would be honored to meet you. But Millis, for the moment, was milking the situation. Turning another dull winter night into one to be remembered.
So, as the three of us stood there, occasionally Millis would turn his head and open his mouth as if he was about to include me in the conversation, then swing his head back over to you. Classic Millis, never one to let the opportunity for some good natured fun get away.
And then suddenly it happened, the inexcusable. A David Bowie song comes on. The realy kinky one, about two or three guys dancing together. And the next thing you know, three or four guys spring-up from out of nowhere, onto the empty dance floor. And start some utterly disgusting, slow grinding dance. A statement I suppose, about their repressed manhood or something.
Millis turns towards me and looks like he is going to puke. I was about to join him, when he let's out a loud hack and simply spits on the floor(more classic Millis). As the song was nearing its end, I noticed the two of you had disappeared, off into the Sierra night. Determining it was the sensible thing to do, I followed suite.
I will gladly delete this story(I think it's the sensible thing to do). It was the only time we came in contact, and I was wondering if you remember the evening although we never met? I am sure you and Millis had plenty of adventures, it just turned out that this was were our paths briefly crossed. Wish it had been more enjoyable surroundings.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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Trip, that's a classic Millis story. What's to apologize? He was a unique character. When next we meet it will no doubt be easier to, well, meet.
I'm wearing a little silver piton Millis made for me. I like keeping it around in his memory. What an artist. Here's another of his inspiring creations. By the time I had lost two of these he got disgusted and made me one with a belay cord.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 15, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
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Doug- "Here's another of his inspiring creations".
Millis had offered to trade me one of those 'creations' in exchange for a reasonable amount of the product associated with them.
I think he had become a little ruffled that I hadn't yet requested one. For they were in high demand. And we had spent many an hour marveling at there utility/practicality....etc.
And I had been waiting for him to pull one out of his rucksack, smile(forever remembered)and say "this ones yours".
I recall him saying "of course it won't be to fancy, no brass lightning bolt or anything like that"! Well, I was ready up until then. I realised he was working me a little...seeing what I was willing to lay on the table.
So, for some reason we put off negotiations for a while....what a mistake on my part. I have often thought about those specimens of his artistic side.
Oh well!
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 15, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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I would love to see a picture of the the little silver piton that Millis made you.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
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Fuzzywuzzy with Millis
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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By The Millis (his mark)
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 15, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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Hey, Doug
From all the Kids;
At Rock Creek, Congratulations!!!! We love you !
Sherri Zelstra say’s Hi!
Man, that’s a name from the past!
We all from the old neighborhood wish you the best!
Man those were the days! All the Girls running a round naked at Hot Creek on acid!
Damn, That was the shizz. NO? I have been never poorer or more richer in my life, then those day’s living at the base of MT. Tom.
Your friend , Bruce ( Dogtown ) Diffenbaugh.
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 15, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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Peter-"Fuzzywuzzy with Millis"
Look at those smiles, wonder what them two 'bards' were up to?
Good times I'm sure!
Edit: As I take a closer look maybe the top of the 'Salathe" @'74.
Recall Millis calling it the "Generation-Gap Ascent"(humorously of course).
Scratch'Salathe'(Captain in background)
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TripL7
Trad climber
'dago
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Nov 15, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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DR-"The Silver Piton".
WOW!
Incredible...YC would be impressed!!
Thanks for sharing something so special and personal.
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scuffy b
climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
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Nov 16, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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This, I believe, is Dougie actually becoming Millis right in front of
our eyes.
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| Messages 1 - 110 of total 110 in this topic |
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