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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:04am PT
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bump.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 16, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
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West Arete of Mount Winchell, old SKOOL 5.8 or Brutus "4.d"
Shhhhhh....its a secret.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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EC, is Silver Lining, The Fin, a 5.9 a route to be done by modern 5.11+ climbers? Or would it be a sack-shriveling experience for a modest 5.9 leader?
For reference, I thought I was a 'solid' 5.9 climber when I hopped on Piece de Resistance on Moro Rock in Sequioa/Kings years ago. I led the first 3 pitches, and the 5.9 stuff on that scared the bujesus out of me with mind-hurtful runouts at the limit of my climbing ability on crumbling chicken heads. I still have some specific moments burned into my brain. We bailed because the topo said the next pitch was the scary one. It would be tough to do The Fin approach and get part way up and bail in similar circumstances. Any guidance?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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a more innocent time...
6 days before 9/11
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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First thread bump.
So many
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 26, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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My favorite climbs for each rating are:
5.10 - Third Pillar Mt. Dana
5.10 - Harding Route, Mt. Conness
5.10 - Direct E Face Mt. Whitney
5.10 - Polish Route (to Summit), Incred. Hulk
5.10 - Planaria, Temple Crag
5.9+ - SE Face Clyde Minaret
5.9 - ZigZag Dihedral, Lone Pine Peak
5.9 - Twin Cracks, Turret east face, Little Slide Canyon
5.9 - Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag
5.8 - Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
5.8 - Direct NW Buttress Mt. Russel
5.8 - Milktoast Chimney, Lone Pine Peak
5.8 - Stonehouse Buttress, Stonehouse Chimney
5.8 - Sequoia Obelisk, Rock Solid
5.7 - Sequoia Obelisk, East Face
5.7 - Matthes Crest
5.7 - NE Buttress Banner Peak
5.6 - Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill
5.6 - N. Palisade, U-Notch
5.6 - N. Palisade, SE Buttress
5.6 - E. Face Thunderbolt Peak
5.5 - E. Face Mt. Whitney
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above
ho man! Brutus gold!
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Nov 26, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Never saw this before, I like the suggestions.
But I do notice a startling lack of climbs on the Westside of the Sierras, such as Courtright Reservoir: Welcome to Courtright - 5.9, Little Bit of Nookey - 5.9; Needles: Igor Unchained - 5.9, White Punks on Dope - 5.8; Dome Rock - Lightning Hands - 5.10 easy, Anti-Jello Crack - 5.10 easy, and the Tree Crack (?) - 5.6,
and lots of others I can't think of right now because I have an earache that is killing me.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Bump in the night.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Good thread bump. The original/first thread???
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Soul bookmark.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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What's really f*#ked up is I first bumped this thread in 2005 and it seemed like 2001 was a long time before THAT.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Ok, here;s a hidden classic:
The East face of the North Summit of Seven Gables(5.9). Many possibilities there. Most converge on a spectacular knifeblade arete/ridge near the top of the formation. There are more long aretes around on the north side of this massive peak. Its in the Bear Creek watershed, west of Bear Creek Spire.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Missed this one. It's good to peruse through the old TR's to find gems.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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This topic, old as it is, still beats a lot of what's on the Front Page and I'm certain others missed it last time I bumped it.
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ruppell
climber
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Haven't seen anyone mention Twilight Pillar on Norman Clyde yet. Pretty good rock and if you take the direct start it'a a plumb line straight to the summit.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Aug 28, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
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N Aretes of Matterhorn Peak
& Bear Creek Spire
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 28, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak 5.5
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!