Good times in the Sierras 5.9 and easier?


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dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 3, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
Yesss. I forgot about the Smokestack and Charlotte Dome.

Watch out for the face licking deer near Charlotte.

Trad climber
The Illuminati
Nov 3, 2010 - 01:42am PT
bumping the first thread for rlf

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:04am PT

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Feb 16, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
West Arete of Mount Winchell, old SKOOL 5.8 or Brutus "4.d"

Shhhhhh....its a secret.

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 7, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
EC, is Silver Lining, The Fin, a 5.9 a route to be done by modern 5.11+ climbers? Or would it be a sack-shriveling experience for a modest 5.9 leader?

For reference, I thought I was a 'solid' 5.9 climber when I hopped on Piece de Resistance on Moro Rock in Sequioa/Kings years ago. I led the first 3 pitches, and the 5.9 stuff on that scared the bujesus out of me with mind-hurtful runouts at the limit of my climbing ability on crumbling chicken heads. I still have some specific moments burned into my brain. We bailed because the topo said the next pitch was the scary one. It would be tough to do The Fin approach and get part way up and bail in similar circumstances. Any guidance?

climber a single wide......
Feb 13, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
a re-visit to the 1st thread on ST.

a more innocent time....

Trad climber
East Coast US
Apr 3, 2013 - 09:19am PT
a more innocent time...

6 days before 9/11
Delhi Dog

Good Question...
Apr 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
First thread bump.

So many

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Nov 26, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
My favorite climbs for each rating are:
5.10 - Third Pillar Mt. Dana
5.10 - Harding Route, Mt. Conness
5.10 - Direct E Face Mt. Whitney
5.10 - Polish Route (to Summit), Incred. Hulk
5.10 - Planaria, Temple Crag
5.9+ - SE Face Clyde Minaret
5.9 - ZigZag Dihedral, Lone Pine Peak
5.9 - Twin Cracks, Turret east face, Little Slide Canyon
5.9 - Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag
5.8 - Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
5.8 - Direct NW Buttress Mt. Russel
5.8 - Milktoast Chimney, Lone Pine Peak
5.8 - Stonehouse Buttress, Stonehouse Chimney
5.8 - Sequoia Obelisk, Rock Solid
5.7 - Sequoia Obelisk, East Face
5.7 - Matthes Crest
5.7 - NE Buttress Banner Peak
5.6 - Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill
5.6 - N. Palisade, U-Notch
5.6 - N. Palisade, SE Buttress
5.6 - E. Face Thunderbolt Peak
5.5 - E. Face Mt. Whitney
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above

ho man! Brutus gold!
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Nov 26, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
Never saw this before, I like the suggestions.

But I do notice a startling lack of climbs on the Westside of the Sierras, such as Courtright Reservoir: Welcome to Courtright - 5.9, Little Bit of Nookey - 5.9; Needles: Igor Unchained - 5.9, White Punks on Dope - 5.8; Dome Rock - Lightning Hands - 5.10 easy, Anti-Jello Crack - 5.10 easy, and the Tree Crack (?) - 5.6,

and lots of others I can't think of right now because I have an earache that is killing me.
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