Discussion Topic |
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Jake Millson
Novice climber
Ventura, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 6, 2001 - 01:36am PT
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What are the best routes 5.9 or easier in the Sierra?
JM
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 11:19pm PT
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The 1st Supertopo thread!
Look at the dates, 5 days between 1st and 2nd posts.
The next day was 9/11 and no one mentioned it. My how things have changed.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Sep 16, 2005 - 11:46pm PT
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But Chris' ST guide. With the exception of the Hulk, it's mostly Sierra routes between 5.7-5.9
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Sep 16, 2005 - 11:49pm PT
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S. face of Clyde Minaret?
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prongo
Trad climber
east side kid
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Sep 17, 2005 - 12:27pm PT
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5.9 - Mt. Russel, Fishoook Arête
5.8 - Mt. Whitney, East Buttress
5.7 - Temple Crag, Moon Goddess Arête
5.6 - Cathedral Peak, Southeast Butt
5.5 - Bear Creak Spire, Northeast Ridge
4th class - Laurel Mountain, Northeast Gully
I think these got mixed up east butt route is 5.7
and moon gooddess is 5.8
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Sep 17, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
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Moon Goddess Arete was 5.7 when I climbed it in 1995. It's only 5.8 if you're sending it in to the mags. Kinda like After Six in the valley being 5.7(it's 5.6). Why is it that people can't stick to the concensus left by our elders? Midnight Lightning jumped from V7 to V9 when Lynn Hill and Lisa Rands climbed it. When Steph Davis soloed Coyne Crack it became .12A. I just don't get it. These ascents are all major accomplishments on their own. Why must these ascents get "fluffed up" by filmmakers, photographers, and writers? Pretty sad when this ends up diminishing great achievements IMHO.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Sep 17, 2005 - 01:08pm PT
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How about less arguing over ratings and more mentioning good routes in the Sierras, especially ones that are a bit of the beaten path?
Preferably ones with between 1k and 3 k feet of 5.6 to 5.9, and some from 5.9 to 5.11.
Just don't tell Bear 46 or any of his/her relatives that anyone is interested.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Sep 17, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
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My favorite climbs for each rating are:
5.10 - Third Pillar Mt. Dana
5.10 - Harding Route, Mt. Conness
5.10 - Direct E Face Mt. Whitney
5.10 - Polish Route (to Summit), Incred. Hulk
5.10 - Planaria, Temple Crag
5.9+ - SE Face Clyde Minaret
5.9 - ZigZag Dihedral, Lone Pine Peak
5.9 - Twin Cracks, Turret east face, Little Slide Canyon
5.9 - Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag
5.8 - Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
5.8 - Direct NW Buttress Mt. Russel
5.8 - Milktoast Chimney, Lone Pine Peak
5.8 - Stonehouse Buttress, Stonehouse Chimney
5.8 - Sequoia Obelisk, Rock Solid
5.7 - Sequoia Obelisk, East Face
5.7 - Matthes Crest
5.7 - NE Buttress Banner Peak
5.6 - Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill
5.6 - N. Palisade, U-Notch
5.6 - N. Palisade, SE Buttress
5.6 - E. Face Thunderbolt Peak
5.5 - E. Face Mt. Whitney
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above
All these routes are classics, some are seldom climbed.
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Sep 17, 2005 - 02:37pm PT
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Anyone done the Smoke Stack? I hear it's pretty darn good but no one mentioned it. I haven't done it either but I'm wonderin if it belongs on this thread. It's been on my tick list for years... mayby when I start climbing mucho again I'll do it.
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Bill
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 18, 2005 - 06:15am PT
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If there's a better route in the Sierra (or the world) than Positive Vibrations, I'd really like to know about it. It might even be enough to get me to start climbing again. That route is everything climbing should be.
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climbingbuzz
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Sep 18, 2005 - 08:52am PT
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I've got to add the Harding Route on Keeler (5.10). The route has killer climbing, especially if you like wider stuff, and a fantastic position. I know both Croft and Chris don't give it a great rating, but I think perhaps recent traffic has eliminated loose rock because this summer I encountered little of it. And the 5.11a finger crack variation near the top is fantastic. It's not up there with Positive Vibes, but I liked it better than Red Dihedral or Mithral Dihedral.
The traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium or Sill (5.9) is one of my all time favorite climbing experiences, up there with PV. Croft calls it a "magical mystery tour," an apt description, and "one of the...very best traverses in the U.S."
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Sep 18, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
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Would have mentioned Keeler, but I thought it is pretty much de rigeur for backcountry climbing at that grade, and an obvious inclusion in the list. Some of the others are more off the beaten track.
Smokestack is definitely on my list to do.
Brutus
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mcKbill
Boulder climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Jul 20, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
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nostalgia bump... THREAD #1
... AND it's about climbing!
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ha-ha
climber
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Jul 20, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
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What are the best routes 5.9 or easier in the Sierra?
JM
reading comprehension what?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 20, 2006 - 11:09pm PT
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Smokestack, yum.
Hit that maybe in November? Or is it too cold?
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Jul 20, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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November can be okay for the Smokestack. We climbed it in May and it was almost too hot. It's a classic though- laybacks, jams, face and a flared chimney crux near the top.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Jul 21, 2006 - 09:29pm PT
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"Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra - can't go wrong."
Unless you use the photos to try to find Milktoast Chimney...
Brutus
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 21, 2006 - 10:19pm PT
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You mean Moynier and Fiddlers " Routes That Me Or My Friends Did First "
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 28, 2007 - 06:14pm PT
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this was the very first ST thread.
badda badda *bump*!
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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Jan 28, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
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White Punks On Dope (5.9- ...runnout friction on 5th pitch)
Voodoo Dome, Needles, CA
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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jan 28, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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How about the North Arete of Bear Creek Spire? It's definitely one of my favorites.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Sep 13, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
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Bump for the First Thread.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Sep 14, 2008 - 02:15am PT
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Hahaha wow. Look at what those old dads were climbing back then. Crazy how times change.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Sep 14, 2008 - 02:32am PT
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I can't help but notice that it was right after 9/11/2001.
I don't know what that means.......
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Sep 14, 2008 - 03:01am PT
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It means that this forum changed everything.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 19, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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Possibly SuperTopo's very first thread and post.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
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Apr 19, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
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"This is hallowed ground."
Ditto.
Sept, 5, 2001. First thread. Wow, what a trip!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Apr 19, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
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North Buttress of Mt. Goode. 5.9.
I've heard it's quite good. There's a TR around here somewhere...
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Apr 19, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
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N Ridge, Mt Conness 5.6 Photo courtesy Bill McConachie
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
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What a privilege to post to a thread this old!
Charlotte Dome. How could that be left off any list of routes 5.9 or less in the Sierra?
1,600' of 5.7. (Or is it now rated 5.8?) Well worth the walk.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 20, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
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Bump for the first thread on ST!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Fantastic start to a great community!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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2001 was the first thread, ....wow!
Here are a few of my faves.
Fishhook A. 5.9
Mathes Crest 5.8 traverse
Conness West and North ridges (West is better IMHO)
Bear Creek Spire North Butt. 5.8
Carl Heller Pk. E. Arete class 3(ha)(LITTLE KNOWN DICK WRENCHING MEGA CLASSIC)
Mt. Goode 5.9
Whitney E. Butt 5.7
Temple Crag-all routes
Sun Rib
Mood Goddess
Venusian B.
Cathedral Pk. SE Face 5.6
Thunderbolt Pk. 5.9 (summit block)
Starlight Pk. 5.9(summit block)
Lone Pine Pk. NE ridge 5.5-5.7 (depending on which way you go)
North Palisades 5th class
Two Eagle Peak, The Diamond 5.6
White Punks
Igor
The list is infinite.
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ec
climber
ca
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Silver Lining, The Fin, 5.9
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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The Smokestack, 5.9+
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adam d
climber
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great Brutus line:
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Yesss. I forgot about the Smokestack and Charlotte Dome.
Watch out for the face licking deer near Charlotte.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati
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bumping the first thread for rlf
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:04am PT
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bump.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 16, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
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West Arete of Mount Winchell, old SKOOL 5.8 or Brutus "4.d"
Shhhhhh....its a secret.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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EC, is Silver Lining, The Fin, a 5.9 a route to be done by modern 5.11+ climbers? Or would it be a sack-shriveling experience for a modest 5.9 leader?
For reference, I thought I was a 'solid' 5.9 climber when I hopped on Piece de Resistance on Moro Rock in Sequioa/Kings years ago. I led the first 3 pitches, and the 5.9 stuff on that scared the bujesus out of me with mind-hurtful runouts at the limit of my climbing ability on crumbling chicken heads. I still have some specific moments burned into my brain. We bailed because the topo said the next pitch was the scary one. It would be tough to do The Fin approach and get part way up and bail in similar circumstances. Any guidance?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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a more innocent time...
6 days before 9/11
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Apr 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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First thread bump.
So many
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 26, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
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My favorite climbs for each rating are:
5.10 - Third Pillar Mt. Dana
5.10 - Harding Route, Mt. Conness
5.10 - Direct E Face Mt. Whitney
5.10 - Polish Route (to Summit), Incred. Hulk
5.10 - Planaria, Temple Crag
5.9+ - SE Face Clyde Minaret
5.9 - ZigZag Dihedral, Lone Pine Peak
5.9 - Twin Cracks, Turret east face, Little Slide Canyon
5.9 - Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag
5.8 - Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
5.8 - Direct NW Buttress Mt. Russel
5.8 - Milktoast Chimney, Lone Pine Peak
5.8 - Stonehouse Buttress, Stonehouse Chimney
5.8 - Sequoia Obelisk, Rock Solid
5.7 - Sequoia Obelisk, East Face
5.7 - Matthes Crest
5.7 - NE Buttress Banner Peak
5.6 - Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill
5.6 - N. Palisade, U-Notch
5.6 - N. Palisade, SE Buttress
5.6 - E. Face Thunderbolt Peak
5.5 - E. Face Mt. Whitney
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above
ho man! Brutus gold!
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Nov 26, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Never saw this before, I like the suggestions.
But I do notice a startling lack of climbs on the Westside of the Sierras, such as Courtright Reservoir: Welcome to Courtright - 5.9, Little Bit of Nookey - 5.9; Needles: Igor Unchained - 5.9, White Punks on Dope - 5.8; Dome Rock - Lightning Hands - 5.10 easy, Anti-Jello Crack - 5.10 easy, and the Tree Crack (?) - 5.6,
and lots of others I can't think of right now because I have an earache that is killing me.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Bump in the night.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Good thread bump. The original/first thread???
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Soul bookmark.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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What's really f*#ked up is I first bumped this thread in 2005 and it seemed like 2001 was a long time before THAT.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Ok, here;s a hidden classic:
The East face of the North Summit of Seven Gables(5.9). Many possibilities there. Most converge on a spectacular knifeblade arete/ridge near the top of the formation. There are more long aretes around on the north side of this massive peak. Its in the Bear Creek watershed, west of Bear Creek Spire.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Missed this one. It's good to peruse through the old TR's to find gems.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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This topic, old as it is, still beats a lot of what's on the Front Page and I'm certain others missed it last time I bumped it.
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ruppell
climber
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Haven't seen anyone mention Twilight Pillar on Norman Clyde yet. Pretty good rock and if you take the direct start it'a a plumb line straight to the summit.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Aug 28, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
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N Aretes of Matterhorn Peak
& Bear Creek Spire
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 28, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak 5.5
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 28, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
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I have been posting here for far too long.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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First Supertopo thread EVER! FIFTEEN years ago.
Thought I'd post up some photos of routes I've done on this list!
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Micronut,
Dude, you consistently deliver cool photos from cool climbs. Thanks muchly.
Also, I must give a shout-out to Matterhorn, what a cool peak.
cheers
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Charlotte's Web is a wilderness classic at 5.8.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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North Ridge Lone Pine Peak...
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Hard to believe anyone recommends anything on temple!
What a chosspile hidden in the sierras
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