Good times in the Sierras 5.9 and easier?

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Jake Millson

Novice climber
Ventura, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 5, 2001 - 10:36pm PT
What are the best routes 5.9 or easier in the Sierra?

JM
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 10, 2001 - 03:20pm PT
My favorite climbs for each rating are:

5.9 - Mt. Russel, Fishoook ArÍte
5.8 - Mt. Whitney, East Buttress
5.7 - Temple Crag, Moon Goddess ArÍte
5.6 - Cathedral Peak, Southeast Butt
5.5 - Bear Creak Spire, Northeast Ridge
4th class - Laurel Mountain, Northeast Gully

(if i was to include a 5.10 route it would definitely Red Dihedral on the ncredible Hulk. Best climb I have done in the High Sierra.)
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Sep 16, 2005 - 08:19pm PT
The 1st Supertopo thread!

Look at the dates, 5 days between 1st and 2nd posts.

The next day was 9/11 and no one mentioned it. My how things have changed.
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Sep 16, 2005 - 08:46pm PT
But Chris' ST guide. With the exception of the Hulk, it's mostly Sierra routes between 5.7-5.9
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 16, 2005 - 08:49pm PT
S. face of Clyde Minaret?
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Sep 16, 2005 - 09:47pm PT
"The 1st Supertopo thread!

Look at the dates, 5 days between 1st and 2nd posts.

The next day was 9/11 and no one mentioned it. My how things have changed.".............

....interesting observation....what was it that made you look so hard at the dates???..........
prongo

Trad climber
east side kid
Sep 17, 2005 - 09:27am PT
5.9 - Mt. Russel, Fishoook ArÍte
5.8 - Mt. Whitney, East Buttress
5.7 - Temple Crag, Moon Goddess ArÍte
5.6 - Cathedral Peak, Southeast Butt
5.5 - Bear Creak Spire, Northeast Ridge
4th class - Laurel Mountain, Northeast Gully

I think these got mixed up east butt route is 5.7
and moon gooddess is 5.8
seamus mcshane

climber
Sep 17, 2005 - 09:46am PT
Moon Goddess Arete was 5.7 when I climbed it in 1995. It's only 5.8 if you're sending it in to the mags. Kinda like After Six in the valley being 5.7(it's 5.6). Why is it that people can't stick to the concensus left by our elders? Midnight Lightning jumped from V7 to V9 when Lynn Hill and Lisa Rands climbed it. When Steph Davis soloed Coyne Crack it became .12A. I just don't get it. These ascents are all major accomplishments on their own. Why must these ascents get "fluffed up" by filmmakers, photographers, and writers? Pretty sad when this ends up diminishing great achievements IMHO.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Sep 17, 2005 - 10:08am PT
How about less arguing over ratings and more mentioning good routes in the Sierras, especially ones that are a bit of the beaten path?

Preferably ones with between 1k and 3 k feet of 5.6 to 5.9, and some from 5.9 to 5.11.

Just don't tell Bear 46 or any of his/her relatives that anyone is interested.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Sep 17, 2005 - 10:27am PT
My favorite climbs for each rating are:
5.10 - Third Pillar Mt. Dana
5.10 - Harding Route, Mt. Conness
5.10 - Direct E Face Mt. Whitney
5.10 - Polish Route (to Summit), Incred. Hulk
5.10 - Planaria, Temple Crag
5.9+ - SE Face Clyde Minaret
5.9 - ZigZag Dihedral, Lone Pine Peak
5.9 - Twin Cracks, Turret east face, Little Slide Canyon
5.9 - Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag
5.8 - Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
5.8 - Direct NW Buttress Mt. Russel
5.8 - Milktoast Chimney, Lone Pine Peak
5.8 - Stonehouse Buttress, Stonehouse Chimney
5.8 - Sequoia Obelisk, Rock Solid
5.7 - Sequoia Obelisk, East Face
5.7 - Matthes Crest
5.7 - NE Buttress Banner Peak
5.6 - Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill
5.6 - N. Palisade, U-Notch
5.6 - N. Palisade, SE Buttress
5.6 - E. Face Thunderbolt Peak
5.5 - E. Face Mt. Whitney
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above

All these routes are classics, some are seldom climbed.
Jay

Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
Sep 17, 2005 - 11:37am PT
Anyone done the Smoke Stack? I hear it's pretty darn good but no one mentioned it. I haven't done it either but I'm wonderin if it belongs on this thread. It's been on my tick list for years... mayby when I start climbing mucho again I'll do it.
Bill

climber
San Francisco
Sep 18, 2005 - 03:15am PT
If there's a better route in the Sierra (or the world) than Positive Vibrations, I'd really like to know about it. It might even be enough to get me to start climbing again. That route is everything climbing should be.
climbingbuzz

Trad climber
SF, CA
Sep 18, 2005 - 05:52am PT
I've got to add the Harding Route on Keeler (5.10). The route has killer climbing, especially if you like wider stuff, and a fantastic position. I know both Croft and Chris don't give it a great rating, but I think perhaps recent traffic has eliminated loose rock because this summer I encountered little of it. And the 5.11a finger crack variation near the top is fantastic. It's not up there with Positive Vibes, but I liked it better than Red Dihedral or Mithral Dihedral.

The traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium or Sill (5.9) is one of my all time favorite climbing experiences, up there with PV. Croft calls it a "magical mystery tour," an apt description, and "one of the...very best traverses in the U.S."
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Sep 18, 2005 - 09:46am PT
Would have mentioned Keeler, but I thought it is pretty much de rigeur for backcountry climbing at that grade, and an obvious inclusion in the list. Some of the others are more off the beaten track.

Smokestack is definitely on my list to do.

Brutus
mcKbill

Boulder climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Jul 20, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
nostalgia bump... THREAD #1

... AND it's about climbing!
ha-ha

climber
Jul 20, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
What are the best routes 5.9 or easier in the Sierra?

JM



reading comprehension what?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Jul 20, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
Smokestack, yum.
Hit that maybe in November? Or is it too cold?
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Jul 20, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra - can't go wrong.

DMT
SamRoberts

climber
Bay Area
Jul 20, 2006 - 08:58pm PT
November can be okay for the Smokestack. We climbed it in May and it was almost too hot. It's a classic though- laybacks, jams, face and a flared chimney crux near the top.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 06:29pm PT
"Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra - can't go wrong."

Unless you use the photos to try to find Milktoast Chimney...

Brutus
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 21, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
You mean Moynier and Fiddlers " Routes That Me Or My Friends Did First "
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 28, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
this was the very first ST thread.

badda badda *bump*!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jan 28, 2007 - 07:49pm PT
Is there a second Sierra that I hadn't heard about?

Sorry, someone had to say it.

My vote is for the as-of-yet-unrepeated ridgeline that Misha did:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=257064&msg=257285#msg257285
dank

Trad climber
the pitch above you!
Jan 28, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
White Punks On Dope (5.9- ...runnout friction on 5th pitch)

Voodoo Dome, Needles, CA
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jan 28, 2007 - 08:11pm PT
How about the North Arete of Bear Creek Spire? It's definitely one of my favorites.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
Nowhere
Sep 13, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
Bump for the First Thread.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Sep 13, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
Hahaha wow. Look at what those old dads were climbing back then. Crazy how times change.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 13, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
I can't help but notice that it was right after 9/11/2001.

I don't know what that means.......
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Sep 14, 2008 - 12:01am PT
It means that this forum changed everything.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 19, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
Possibly SuperTopo's very first thread and post.
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Full Silos of Iowa
Apr 19, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
"This is hallowed ground."

Ditto.

Sept, 5, 2001. First thread. Wow, what a trip!
gonzo chemist

climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Apr 19, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
North Buttress of Mt. Goode. 5.9.


I've heard it's quite good. There's a TR around here somewhere...


tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Apr 19, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
N Ridge, Mt Conness 5.6 Photo courtesy Bill McConachie

rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 19, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
found elsewhere on ST
found elsewhere on ST
Credit: rmuir

What a privilege to post to a thread this old!

Charlotte Dome. How could that be left off any list of routes 5.9 or less in the Sierra?
1,600' of 5.7. (Or is it now rated 5.8?) Well worth the walk.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 20, 2010 - 11:39am PT
Bump for the first thread on ST!
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Sep 2, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
Fantastic start to a great community!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 2, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
2001 was the first thread, ....wow!


Here are a few of my faves.
Fishhook A. 5.9
Mathes Crest 5.8 traverse
Conness West and North ridges (West is better IMHO)
Bear Creek Spire North Butt. 5.8
Carl Heller Pk. E. Arete class 3(ha)(LITTLE KNOWN DICK WRENCHING MEGA CLASSIC)
Mt. Goode 5.9
Whitney E. Butt 5.7
Temple Crag-all routes
Sun Rib
Mood Goddess
Venusian B.
Cathedral Pk. SE Face 5.6
Thunderbolt Pk. 5.9 (summit block)
Starlight Pk. 5.9(summit block)
Lone Pine Pk. NE ridge 5.5-5.7 (depending on which way you go)
North Palisades 5th class
Two Eagle Peak, The Diamond 5.6
White Punks
Igor
The list is infinite.





ec

climber
ca
Sep 2, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
Silver Lining, The Fin, 5.9
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Sep 2, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
The Smokestack, 5.9+
adam d

climber
Sep 2, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
great Brutus line:
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 3, 2010 - 10:07am PT
Yesss. I forgot about the Smokestack and Charlotte Dome.


Watch out for the face licking deer near Charlotte.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati
Nov 2, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
bumping the first thread for rlf
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Feb 16, 2011 - 01:04am PT
bump.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Feb 16, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
West Arete of Mount Winchell, old SKOOL 5.8 or Brutus "4.d"

Shhhhhh....its a secret.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
So much rock climbing psyche, and so much snow right now...

and school.


With due time and due patience....
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 7, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
EC, is Silver Lining, The Fin, a 5.9 a route to be done by modern 5.11+ climbers? Or would it be a sack-shriveling experience for a modest 5.9 leader?

For reference, I thought I was a 'solid' 5.9 climber when I hopped on Piece de Resistance on Moro Rock in Sequioa/Kings years ago. I led the first 3 pitches, and the 5.9 stuff on that scared the bujesus out of me with mind-hurtful runouts at the limit of my climbing ability on crumbling chicken heads. I still have some specific moments burned into my brain. We bailed because the topo said the next pitch was the scary one. It would be tough to do The Fin approach and get part way up and bail in similar circumstances. Any guidance?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Feb 13, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
a re-visit to the 1st thread on ST.

a more innocent time....
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Apr 3, 2013 - 06:19am PT
a more innocent time...

6 days before 9/11
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Apr 23, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
First thread bump.

So many
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