Good times in the Sierras 5.9 and easier?

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Jake Millson

Novice climber
Ventura, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 6, 2001 - 01:36am PT
What are the best routes 5.9 or easier in the Sierra?

JM
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 10, 2001 - 06:20pm PT
My favorite climbs for each rating are:

5.9 - Mt. Russel, Fishoook ArÍte
5.8 - Mt. Whitney, East Buttress
5.7 - Temple Crag, Moon Goddess ArÍte
5.6 - Cathedral Peak, Southeast Butt
5.5 - Bear Creak Spire, Northeast Ridge
4th class - Laurel Mountain, Northeast Gully

(if i was to include a 5.10 route it would definitely Red Dihedral on the ncredible Hulk. Best climb I have done in the High Sierra.)
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Sep 16, 2005 - 11:19pm PT
The 1st Supertopo thread!

Look at the dates, 5 days between 1st and 2nd posts.

The next day was 9/11 and no one mentioned it. My how things have changed.
Fluoride

Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
Sep 16, 2005 - 11:46pm PT
But Chris' ST guide. With the exception of the Hulk, it's mostly Sierra routes between 5.7-5.9
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 16, 2005 - 11:49pm PT
S. face of Clyde Minaret?
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Sep 17, 2005 - 12:47am PT
"The 1st Supertopo thread!

Look at the dates, 5 days between 1st and 2nd posts.

The next day was 9/11 and no one mentioned it. My how things have changed.".............

....interesting observation....what was it that made you look so hard at the dates???..........
prongo

Trad climber
east side kid
Sep 17, 2005 - 12:27pm PT
5.9 - Mt. Russel, Fishoook ArÍte
5.8 - Mt. Whitney, East Buttress
5.7 - Temple Crag, Moon Goddess ArÍte
5.6 - Cathedral Peak, Southeast Butt
5.5 - Bear Creak Spire, Northeast Ridge
4th class - Laurel Mountain, Northeast Gully

I think these got mixed up east butt route is 5.7
and moon gooddess is 5.8
seamus mcshane

climber
Sep 17, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
Moon Goddess Arete was 5.7 when I climbed it in 1995. It's only 5.8 if you're sending it in to the mags. Kinda like After Six in the valley being 5.7(it's 5.6). Why is it that people can't stick to the concensus left by our elders? Midnight Lightning jumped from V7 to V9 when Lynn Hill and Lisa Rands climbed it. When Steph Davis soloed Coyne Crack it became .12A. I just don't get it. These ascents are all major accomplishments on their own. Why must these ascents get "fluffed up" by filmmakers, photographers, and writers? Pretty sad when this ends up diminishing great achievements IMHO.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Sep 17, 2005 - 01:08pm PT
How about less arguing over ratings and more mentioning good routes in the Sierras, especially ones that are a bit of the beaten path?

Preferably ones with between 1k and 3 k feet of 5.6 to 5.9, and some from 5.9 to 5.11.

Just don't tell Bear 46 or any of his/her relatives that anyone is interested.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Sep 17, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
My favorite climbs for each rating are:
5.10 - Third Pillar Mt. Dana
5.10 - Harding Route, Mt. Conness
5.10 - Direct E Face Mt. Whitney
5.10 - Polish Route (to Summit), Incred. Hulk
5.10 - Planaria, Temple Crag
5.9+ - SE Face Clyde Minaret
5.9 - ZigZag Dihedral, Lone Pine Peak
5.9 - Twin Cracks, Turret east face, Little Slide Canyon
5.9 - Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag
5.8 - Norman Clyde Peak, Twilight Pillar
5.8 - Direct NW Buttress Mt. Russel
5.8 - Milktoast Chimney, Lone Pine Peak
5.8 - Stonehouse Buttress, Stonehouse Chimney
5.8 - Sequoia Obelisk, Rock Solid
5.7 - Sequoia Obelisk, East Face
5.7 - Matthes Crest
5.7 - NE Buttress Banner Peak
5.6 - Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill
5.6 - N. Palisade, U-Notch
5.6 - N. Palisade, SE Buttress
5.6 - E. Face Thunderbolt Peak
5.5 - E. Face Mt. Whitney
4th class - any of the 5.5 to 5.8 climbs listed above

All these routes are classics, some are seldom climbed.
Jay

Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
Sep 17, 2005 - 02:37pm PT
Anyone done the Smoke Stack? I hear it's pretty darn good but no one mentioned it. I haven't done it either but I'm wonderin if it belongs on this thread. It's been on my tick list for years... mayby when I start climbing mucho again I'll do it.
Bill

climber
San Francisco
Sep 18, 2005 - 06:15am PT
If there's a better route in the Sierra (or the world) than Positive Vibrations, I'd really like to know about it. It might even be enough to get me to start climbing again. That route is everything climbing should be.
climbingbuzz

Trad climber
SF, CA
Sep 18, 2005 - 08:52am PT
I've got to add the Harding Route on Keeler (5.10). The route has killer climbing, especially if you like wider stuff, and a fantastic position. I know both Croft and Chris don't give it a great rating, but I think perhaps recent traffic has eliminated loose rock because this summer I encountered little of it. And the 5.11a finger crack variation near the top is fantastic. It's not up there with Positive Vibes, but I liked it better than Red Dihedral or Mithral Dihedral.

The traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium or Sill (5.9) is one of my all time favorite climbing experiences, up there with PV. Croft calls it a "magical mystery tour," an apt description, and "one of the...very best traverses in the U.S."
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Sep 18, 2005 - 12:46pm PT
Would have mentioned Keeler, but I thought it is pretty much de rigeur for backcountry climbing at that grade, and an obvious inclusion in the list. Some of the others are more off the beaten track.

Smokestack is definitely on my list to do.

Brutus
mcKbill

Boulder climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Jul 20, 2006 - 06:22pm PT
nostalgia bump... THREAD #1

... AND it's about climbing!
ha-ha

climber
Jul 20, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
What are the best routes 5.9 or easier in the Sierra?

JM



reading comprehension what?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Jul 20, 2006 - 11:09pm PT
Smokestack, yum.
Hit that maybe in November? Or is it too cold?
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Jul 20, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra - can't go wrong.

DMT
SamRoberts

climber
Bay Area
Jul 20, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
November can be okay for the Smokestack. We climbed it in May and it was almost too hot. It's a classic though- laybacks, jams, face and a flared chimney crux near the top.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Jul 21, 2006 - 09:29pm PT
"Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra - can't go wrong."

Unless you use the photos to try to find Milktoast Chimney...

Brutus
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